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Old 12-12-2012, 11:56 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I have new hardbags coming my way pre-finished in Gloss Black.

I've never been one to shy away from doing things myself when possible and I know that these days it's possible to get just about any paint available in an aerosol.

So, I am considering adding the second color to these bags to match the scheme on the bike. Have found that Color-Rite has a spec'd match and is available in Aerosol at $33 a can. Not bad, IMO. And likely the route I will go.

But first, anyone here got tips?

Suggestions? (Bad idea, disasterous results, etc...)

A tried and true brand with a perfect match? (Mine is the Black and Pearl Blue).

And finally, anyone know exactly what color the silver'ish pin striping is that overlaps for the color break line? (I'm sure I could find a "close enough" but can't seem to find the actual pinstripe color listed on the bike, just lists the black and the blue.)
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Old 12-12-2012, 12:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I know this does not answer any of your questions, but was curious where you ordered the hard bags from. I would like to get a set but don't want to pay upwards of $700 for them.


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Old 12-12-2012, 12:56 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I'm going with the Mutazu HL, rigid support, stabilizer crossbar, and teardrop lights.

$461 shipped.

Not sure how they actually mount yet but I am going to take cues from how the ABS fenders are mounted on the bike with rubber bushings.

Going to mount 70's Volkswagen turn signal on the top door to replace the bikes stock signal, use the supplied bag lights for additional brake lights, apply some sheet metal to the mounting side of the bag for reinforcing, and line them with some glued in speakerbox fabric.

Still deciding if I want to paint on an accent panel to match the bike or not.
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Old 12-12-2012, 05:17 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I've painted several bikes including my current Wee-Strom, but I'd advise you against this. First of all, there's nothing wrong with basic black, as evidenced by the fact that makers of expensive hard luggage like Givi offer ONLY that color.

But more to the point, getting a good rattle-can finish is not impossible, but it's a lot of work and will probably never match the factory paint in quality and brilliance. And if you do decide to do it yourself, be aware that there is no going back -- to give the new paint "tooth" to adhere to you will have to sand off the bags' shiny OEM finish. If you can't get the new paint job right you are then officially (insert sex act here).
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Old 12-12-2012, 06:05 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If you paint them with aerosol cans, then you will need to also apply a clear coat to protect the new color coat. Aerosol paints have no UV protectants to keep them from breaking down, causing the need for the clear. To do it properly, the whole saddle bag should be cleared after it is scuffed for proper adhesion.
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Old 12-13-2012, 01:14 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB View Post
I've painted several bikes including my current Wee-Strom, but I'd advise you against this. First of all, there's nothing wrong with basic black, as evidenced by the fact that makers of expensive hard luggage like Givi offer ONLY that color.

But more to the point, getting a good rattle-can finish is not impossible, but it's a lot of work and will probably never match the factory paint in quality and brilliance. And if you do decide to do it yourself, be aware that there is no going back -- to give the new paint "tooth" to adhere to you will have to sand off the bags' shiny OEM finish. If you can't get the new paint job right you are then officially (insert sex act here).
Only thing wrong with basic black is that I want MY saddlebags to tie in with the bikes color scheme.

And, I do not expect it to match the factory finish perfectly. I do expect it to be close. I've been reading application instructions for the colorite product. I think I can handle it. I have no intention of refinishing the entire bag. In fact, I'll only be painting a small accent portion of the side to match.



You see that raised bit? The bit the hinge is on? That is the only area I plan to paint with the candy blue of my bike.

As for getting it right, well, that is the rub. I am well aware that once the paint hits the surface there is no going back. I do intend to completely mask off the rest of the bag so that only that portion is exposed for potential.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1996shadow View Post
If you paint them with aerosol cans, then you will need to also apply a clear coat to protect the new color coat. Aerosol paints have no UV protectants to keep them from breaking down, causing the need for the clear. To do it properly, the whole saddle bag should be cleared after it is scuffed for proper adhesion.
Yeah. I found that much out through colorite as well.


Thanks for the advice fellas.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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OK, but you will have to use a primer that is compatible with plastic, because regular paint has trouble sticking to surfaces that have residual release agent on them from the plastic mold. Then you will have to apply MULTIPLE coats of color, wet-sanding with 2000-grit between coats. After the clear is applied more sanding and then rubbing out with a fine polishing compound is necessary.

You had better use very tough masking tape around the rest of the case because all that sanding (especially wet) will abrade paper masking tape and cause scuffed areas in the gloss black around the edges. I would probably use electrical tape at the very edge for a sharp line and put duct tape over that. Make sure you mask ALL the black surface because spray paint mist in the air WILL get on every unmasked inch just from static attraction, even on the back side.

You can learn from the mistakes of others, but more valuable are your own. Practice on some scrap before starting the main event.
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Old 12-13-2012, 09:28 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeB View Post
OK, but you will have to use a primer that is compatible with plastic, because regular paint has trouble sticking to surfaces that have residual release agent on them from the plastic mold. Then you will have to apply MULTIPLE coats of color, wet-sanding with 2000-grit between coats. After the clear is applied more sanding and then rubbing out with a fine polishing compound is necessary.

You had better use very tough masking tape around the rest of the case because all that sanding (especially wet) will abrade paper masking tape and cause scuffed areas in the gloss black around the edges. I would probably use electrical tape at the very edge for a sharp line and put duct tape over that. Make sure you mask ALL the black surface because spray paint mist in the air WILL get on every unmasked inch just from static attraction, even on the back side.

You can learn from the mistakes of others, but more valuable are your own. Practice on some scrap before starting the main event.
Once again, thanks for the tips.

The bags are pre-finished. My plan was to go per Colorite specs;

400-600 grit to remove only the existing gloss (leaving the existing black in place as the base), dust and degrease. Colorite says to apply a coat every 10 minutes until the desired depth is attained and to NOT sand between coats.

From Colorite,

"Q. Can I sand between color coats?
A. NO! Do not sand between color coats. The result will be disastrous at best. The paint actually bonds with the clearcoat when it is drying. This bond is what makes the paint cure. If sanding is done between coats, the clearcoat will not bond correctly and the paintjob will be effectively ruined. "

Similar warnings are given about sanding between coats of clearcoat. And they further state to not apply more than 3 coats maximum or it will yellow.

They do elsewhere state that wetsanding, or polishing with rubbing compounds can be done after a 5 to 10 day cure.

So, all that said, is it still advisable to wet sand between coats to improve the finish?

THANK YOU so much, especially for the tips about the tape. I had been thinking about that too but had not had a chance to dive into what the industry standard is for tape with automotive paints.

And yeah, i already know all too well about paint overspray and dust. Sh!t goes EVERYWHERE. Thanks again for the heads up tho'.

I had planned on making a test panel to figure out how many coats it will take to get to the desired result. And have requested a spare sample of the finished plastic from the bag maker. We'll see if that happens.

Last edited by GilaMinumBeer; 12-13-2012 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:21 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'm seeing some bad info here. First, $33 for a spray can is madness. 2nd, the color quality and lustre can absolutely be equal or better than factory, if you finish it. But, where you usually suffer is durability. I haven't found any rattle cans that offer a really strong/hard automotive paint or clear (compared to professional paints).
If do it, you can scuff the clear with 600 grit, paint, and clear. Just mask it really well.
If you're paying $33 a can, might as well pay a pro $150 to do the whole job.
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Old 12-13-2012, 11:44 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bowie- View Post
I'm seeing some bad info here. First, $33 for a spray can is madness. 2nd, the color quality and lustre can absolutely be equal or better than factory, if you finish it. But, where you usually suffer is durability. I haven't found any rattle cans that offer a really strong/hard automotive paint or clear (compared to professional paints).
If do it, you can scuff the clear with 600 grit, paint, and clear. Just mask it really well.
If you're paying $33 a can, might as well pay a pro $150 to do the whole job.
It's not so much about the money, really. I like the DIY appeal. And I do agree that $33/can at the risk of only getting 8 or 9 ounces out of an 11 ounce is steep. I just don't have any equipment to spray with and haven't found anyone else that claims a matched pre-mix.
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