Quick oil change question - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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Quick oil change question

I am not trying to start another oil post here. I was just wondering on average for those with synthetic oil. How many miles do you go between oil changes. My bike now has just over 17k on it. After I bought the bike. I changed the oil and put in the shell T6 synthetic. Lately I can here ticking similar to if the valves needed adjusted. The oil looks great still. I changed the oil today with shell T5 semi synthetic. The bike is a lot quieter. I have not rode it but the ticking I heard was stronger at idle. Not bad enough to think I have an engine problem. After the oil change the bike is pretty quiet again. I had about 4500 miles on the T6 before I changed today.
So,,,, at what mileage do you change for the full synthetic and the semi synthetic. I am thinking I may do the next change at 3500. I will also not at what point the ticking seems to get stronger again. If it does.

1995 VT1100 Ace
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:31 PM
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I just know I am going to hate myself in the morning, for responding to this thread....

My OCI for dino oil or semi synthetic is around 5K. Full synthetic my oil change interval is up around 10K. There is, however a caveat.

Some engines are harder on oil than others. Even in the same breed (motorcycles). For instance, Kawasaki KLR650 engines are large bore single lung stroker's that are notorious for using oil and having blow by. These habits are very hard on oil.

So, the above is the reason why most savvy KLR owners use cheaper dino oil and change it every 2000 miles. On my KLR I've done enough UOA's (Used Oil Analysis) that I am confident that I can run Dino Rotella for about 3000 miles.

Now, my V4 Venture is very easy on oil. This means that I can leave Rotella synthetic in the mill for 7K to 9K miles. The new GoldWing will probably go 5000 or so, until I can develop a baseline of UOA information.

If you're not doing UOA you are just guessing about when to change your oil....

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by gat803 View Post
I just know I am going to hate myself in the morning, for responding to this thread....

You're good! Actually your post was very informative.....

Now; had you responded to a thread about "Wave Etiquette" I would have been very worried about you.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:09 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gat803 View Post
I just know I am going to hate myself in the morning, for responding to this thread....

My OCI for dino oil or semi synthetic is around 5K. Full synthetic my oil change interval is up around 10K. There is, however a caveat.

Some engines are harder on oil than others. Even in the same breed (motorcycles). For instance, Kawasaki KLR650 engines are large bore single lung stroker's that are notorious for using oil and having blow by. These habits are very hard on oil.

So, the above is the reason why most savvy KLR owners use cheaper dino oil and change it every 2000 miles. On my KLR I've done enough UOA's (Used Oil Analysis) that I am confident that I can run Dino Rotella for about 3000 miles.

Now, my V4 Venture is very easy on oil. This means that I can leave Rotella synthetic in the mill for 7K to 9K miles. The new GoldWing will probably go 5000 or so, until I can develop a baseline of UOA information.

If you're not doing UOA you are just guessing about when to change your oil....

Blackstone Labs
Thanks for the link. I had thought about that just to get a good idea about the motor. It it only has 17k on it. But is still a 22 yo. bike. I know they claim 10k for cars with full synthetic. I have a friend that changes his every 10k. I told him I would at least change the filter every 5k if it were my truck.
Sounds like a change at every 3500 would not be bad then. I will send it out in the next change. I put this oil in an un clean milk jug. I will be curios to see if my ticking gets a little louder as I get more miles on the oil as before. It was quiet before I did the first oil change.

1995 VT1100 Ace
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:16 PM
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I'm not saying what others should do, just what I do.
Anyway, that's what the questions was...

The manual for my VLX says to change the oil/filter every 8,000 miles. Even though I'm running with T6 full synth, I still keep to that interval.

Of course, the way I ride has to be taken into account. My commute is 60 miles, I take a lot of camping trips fully loaded with gear, and at least one trip per year which requires several days of 10 hour riding at highway speeds. There is so much riding (no pun) on the oil that I just don't play around. Anyway, I do my own changes so my only cost is the oil and the filter. I don't mess with filters either. A Pure 1 filter doesn't cost much more than a Fram.

Now if I could only find a way to prevent flat tires...I only seem to get them when I am hundreds of miles away from home in the middle of nowhere.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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@Menhir , that was what this was about How many miles you guys change at. Most of my riding is at 55 plus speeds. For me, I will never use another fram filter. I have had to many that would not hold pressure at idle. Like you, I am not telling others what to use or not to use. Just my preference here. As for flats. I can only remember getting one on a street bike in all my years. Got lots on dirt bikes though.
I appreciate every ones input. I was just curios as to the mileage others changed at. I had been reading about oil changes for bikes and they are all over the place for the synthetics. I have seen info for 5k to 10k ranges. You folks here ride the same bikes as I do. I also know there is tons of great info on this site, if one only reads or asks.

1995 VT1100 Ace
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 09:06 PM
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I started changing our oil at 5k miles. I am having the oil tested at Blackstone labs as well. This is the only way to know about your oil. We decided to run Rotlla T (now labeled T4) in my 2013 Phantom with a Bosch filter and Rotella T6 and a Bosch filter in Laura's Aero. I missed testing the 5000 mi change in the Phantom but did get the 10k change tested. With both the 10k Phantom and 5k Aero test I had them check the additive package condition. They suggested that I change at 6k interval and check the additive package to see how it is holding up.

I have learned that what maters in oil is contaminates and additive package condition. As long as the contaminates are low and the additive package is in good shape, so is the oil. The additive package is what gives you the modified second number in oil weight and as the additive package wears out the second number lowers. So if you start with 10w40 weight oil and run it to long it will turn into 10w10 oil.

The only way to know what is going on with your oil is to have it tested. If you change your oil when your bike starts ticking it is possible to be covering up a mechanical problem. It is possible that your valves may be a bit out of adjustment. My MOM stated to check valve adjustment at 600 miles and every 8k (I believe) thereafter. With 17k miles on your bike the valves should have been checked a few times.

To check the additive package Blackstone charges an extra $10. I will be doing it until I find the sweet spot for changing interval.

Just my opinion,,,YMMV.

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-18-2017, 11:36 PM
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I had full lab facilities available to me at a used oil recycling facility. We ran long term (10 year, 250,000 km) oil tests on 2 similar-driven identical 2003 Honda Accords with recommended 10k mile oil changes. Results were a little surprising in that one of the Accords had oil changed at 5,000 miles and registered higher engine wear. One possibility was that the high level of additives in new oil may have been led to higher wear. This anomaly was verified in subsequent tests ie a higher level of engine wear is indicated shortly after fresh oil is added.

With synthetics in the Accords, the OCI could have been extended: less wear evident. Both Accords were switched to synthetics in 2010 but OCI was not changed.

With motorcycles because our transmissions chew the oil more than cars, oil has a tendency to shear at a quicker rate than a car so that becomes more of a factor than contaminant or additive loss. In any case I have rarely seen an engine fail when properly maintained.

I read hundreds of UOA reports and am shocked by how frequently some people change their oil. My guess is anyone who will pay for UOA is likely skewed toward frequent changes.

So my 1995 VT1100C2 gets its oil changed at recommended intervals of 8,000 miles or each year. I only have about 70k km because I have other bikes. however my GL has 350,000 km and no issues with once a year oil changes. I changed to T6 a few years ago because the viscosity, additive package and shear stability, however I remain with the recommended OCI. My tests indicate that motor may exist another 22 years, however I ....

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Last edited by gdb069; 03-19-2017 at 10:42 AM.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 12:06 AM
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My OCD tells me to follow the owner's manual to the letter. So on my '13 Phantom, I change the oil every 8k including the filter.
Currently using Honda's GN4, but after reading the forum, I'm considering changing to Rotella T5 or T6 with a HiFlo filter. I commute 100 miles a day for work, so anything that'll help the longevity of the bike is a plus for me.

P.S. I also got a Futomo oil drain valve... oil plus filter change takes 10 minutes.
just attach hose, open valve and done.
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 03-19-2017, 08:48 AM
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Well I'll say this, I ride a 84 VT700c and I put over 7,000 miles on it last year. I use a synthetic blend and I change it at the beginning of the season and again near the end of the season. I do ride year round and I'm sure I'm changing it more often than I should but oil changes are cheap but priceless.

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