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#11 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Hi Dan
First I doubt if you got it over 6500 rpm as the engine would be really zinging. Never heard of the 35 mph rule. Tires need about 200 mile break -in. Do an oil/filter change now so it will be ready for riding in the spring. Buy a float type battery charger and connect it whenever not using the bike for more than a week. Don't use any harsh chemicals to clean. I just use auto (not dish) soap and water. Watch how you cover the bike so you don't get any moisture trapped. Get an owners manual and follow it for service: not more and not less. Try and not take it to service as usually you can do a better job. G. |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Western Canada
Posts: 515
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Really good advice can be found here... IMHO.
Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power
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#15 (permalink) |
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Member
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Alright, now I'm very confused.
Currently, the bike is in my dad's garage (it's more like a huge barn in the country). It's not covered and the battery is still in. My dad says he turns in on every now and then and moves it around so the tires don't settle. It's cold up here and there it's snowing on and off. The instructions that I just read in the last post said NOT to turn it on until it's ready for spring, and it's been ran a few times just to warm it up. I'm getting so many mixed messages, how am I supposed to know what to do now? I just don't get it. |
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#16 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Phoenixville, PA
Posts: 6,320
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Quote:
Read the article posted by 750shadowC2 "Break in Secrets". Did you put any fuel stabilizer in the gas and run it through the carbs? Not doing that will screw the bike up far worse than any miscue on the break in.
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When all think alike......no one thinks very much. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 167
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I think it depends on how long you want to keep it. If only keeping it for the short term such as the warranty period - ride it however you like. It will be the next owners problem.
Long term ownership - Warm up before applying lots of torque, regular oil changes, don't over rev but don't labor it either. People say to var the rev range but unless you're on cruise control you'll do that anyway. Hibernation - I always put fuel stabilizer in and change the oil. Gets rid of trace elements in the oil that may be corrosive over a period of time. When ready to ride I dump all fuel and put new oil in again. If it was me - I wouldn't worry about any of it too much. As Vito says "its not a porcelain doll". There are lots of bikes out there that get treated poorly but last for years.
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Cheers from Oz - 2003 Sabre Memphis Shades Batwing, Utopia Driver's Backrest
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#18 (permalink) |
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Member
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Thank you. There is stabilizer in it, but the tank isn't completely full.
I plan to keep it for a long time, at least for the next ten years. I want it to have the best treatment possible and keep it looking new forever. May seem extreme, but that's how I am. It's a part of me, an extension, my very soul incarnated... .... .....yeah I'm a bit OCD. |
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#20 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Queensland, Australia
Posts: 167
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Quote:
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Cheers from Oz - 2003 Sabre Memphis Shades Batwing, Utopia Driver's Backrest
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