VT1100--Adjusting Clutch Lever - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 08:33 PM Thread Starter
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VT1100--Adjusting Clutch Lever

It's a 92 VT1100 hydraulic---Brake lever is 3 1/2" at furthest point---The clutch is a full 4"---I find myself having to let the last of it out with my longest middle finger---Would rather have it closer to the bar so I could release with the whole hand, (several times my finger slips off)---Any suggestions---Thanks

Kenny

92 Shadow VT-1100 With Samson Pipes


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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-27-2011, 10:57 PM
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Keep dreaming. Adjustable levers are available for sportsbikes and some cruisers but I doubt for a Shadow 750 [edit] VT1100 . The pic below is the only solution I know of. The problem is you have to make absolutely certain that the modified lever contacts the clutch switch to avoid disabling the bike's safety interlock system.


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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 02:13 AM Thread Starter
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My clutch lever is built into the clutch reservoir so that wouldn't work.

Kenny

92 Shadow VT-1100 With Samson Pipes


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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 04:13 PM
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The mod shown above may work if you change it around a little. The adusting screw would need to be part of the lever not the mount.

I have 2003 Kawasaki Concours that had an adjustable hydraulic clutch. the adjust ment was dome by changing the length of the push rod that pushed into the master cylinder.

I dont have drawings of your lever but you may be able to modify your push rod (may be just a small die cast bump) by drilling it out and tapping it so you can insert a adjustment screw. Take a pic or two of the lever and maybe someone can come up with a solution.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-28-2011, 06:04 PM
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Hydraulic clutch's have no adjustments at the lever. Your best bet is to find a modified lever if anyone makes them.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-29-2011, 10:55 PM
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My clutch is cabled so I can't check this out on my bike but it looks like you MIGHT be able to shorten the push rod (Item 2). Item 2 costs $16 and the Bushing item 3 costs $10 so you can always order them and try mod'ing them or at least have them on hand if shortening the push rod doesn't work out.


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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the pic---I'd probably be better off just getting another #18, (the lever) off a parting out bike---Try to heat and slow bend it.

Kenny

92 Shadow VT-1100 With Samson Pipes


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 03:00 AM
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Good luck with that, cast aluminum is a bear to bend even with heat due to it's porous nature. If you do get it to bend without breaking I personaly would not trust the handle, odds are it will break off just when you need it most.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-30-2011, 05:17 PM Thread Starter
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Good luck with that, cast aluminum is a bear to bend even with heat due to it's porous nature. If you do get it to bend without breaking I personaly would not trust the handle, odds are it will break off just when you need it most.
That's a good thought Richard---After I posted it I thought about it more and as you said the heating and/or bending may compromise the strength of it and could easily break off in my hand at a very inconvenient time---Oh well, I'll just have to learn to adapt to what I have.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 08-31-2011, 12:02 AM
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just a thought. is your hand at the end of the handel? have you tried moving it closer to the center? also rotating the lever on the handelbar a little may help. examine your grip and see if this may help.


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