Wiring Ch.2 Nightmare continues

[TxShadow49]

Some may have seen my wiring thread and realized that I have been having a little trouble. I think I have found the part of main reason. (Outside of misunderstanding some directions). The 3 wires that come from the dimmer switch are W/R, B, and GR. I now know that Bl is the high beam, W/R is the low and GRN is the ground. The circuit that powers the Hi Beam Indicator is not working. The High beam circuit has continuity. The low beam wire has intermittent continuity. I put a multimeter on it and it jumps up and down. I don't understand that. Also, I want to make sure I am reading the meter correctly. If i put red lead to pwr and black lead to wire end should the needle peg out to the zero side of the meter if you have continuity. I'm not sure how to figure out whether its the dimmer switch that's bad, or if its something else. I have a wiring diagram, but I'm not sure if I can read it right. And please no ball-busting here. I know I could have taken this to the stealer, but I'm trying to learn this stuff myself.

If its any consolation, the main thing I learned is that a Clymer manual is good if you want to know how to change the oil or learn what the number codes are for your VIN or paint, but other than that its probably best suited for propping up the front tire when you need to slide a jack under the bike. I guess I'll have to break down and spend the hundred bucks to get the actual Honda Shop Manual.

[Bro Eddie]

My Honda Shop Manual was less than $50 from the stealership.

[Lakota]

I bought a Clymer.
Once.
Long time ago.

-john

[Scrapdog2grand]

[QUOTE=TxShadow49;1230392]Some may have seen my wiring thread and realized that I have been having a little trouble. I think I have found the part of main reason. (Outside of misunderstanding some directions). The 3 wires that come from the dimmer switch are W/R, B, and GR. I now know that Bl is the high beam, W/R is the low and GRN is the ground. The circuit that powers the Hi Beam Indicator is not working. The High beam circuit has continuity. The low beam wire has intermittent continuity. I put a multimeter on it and it jumps up and down. I don't understand that. Also, I want to make sure I am reading the meter correctly. If i put red lead to pwr and black lead to wire end should the needle peg out to the zero side of the meter if you have continuity. I'm not sure how to figure out whether its the dimmer switch that's bad, or if its something else. I have a wiring diagram, but I'm not sure if I can read it right. And please no ball-busting here. I know I could have taken this to the stealer, but I'm trying to learn this stuff myself.


If you have the red lead to power, and the black lead to the end of what wire? if its the blue wire and you checking while pluged into the switch, that would be a voltage drop test, with good wiring it will show 0 , but if you have an open circuit after the part of the harness your testing it will also show 0.
so start over.

the hot wire coming into your dimmer is what color, blue and white? do you have power there? if so

on low - do you have power at the switch connector at the white wire? no? bad dimmer or wiring between connector and dimmer.

on high - do you have power at the switch connector at the blue wire? no?
bad dimmer or wiring between connector and dimmer.

do this with the connector plugged in, and use a small paper clip to back probe it. check the connector pin fit, and look for corrosion, broken pin.

[TxShadow49]

Originally Posted by Bro Eddie

My Honda Shop Manual was less than $50 from the stealership.

I guess my stealer is a better stealer than your stealer .

[TxShadow49]

Dimmer switch was cracked, while I was checking it out it broke. I'm hoping that turns out to be the whole problem.

[TxShadow49]

Dimmer switch was cracked, while I was checking it out it broke. I'm hoping that turns out to be the whole problem.

[Phantomjr]

Go to www.helm.com to order a Honda factory manual.


Sent from my Motorcycle iPhone app

[TxShadow49]

Originally Posted by Scrapdog2grand

If you have the red lead to power, and the black lead to the end of what wire? if its the blue wire and you checking while pluged into the switch, that would be a voltage drop test, with good wiring it will show 0 , but if you have an open circuit after the part of the harness your testing it will also show 0.
so start over.

the hot wire coming into your dimmer is what color, blue and white? do you have power there? if so

on low - do you have power at the switch connector at the white wire? no? bad dimmer or wiring between connector and dimmer.

on high - do you have power at the switch connector at the blue wire? no?
bad dimmer or wiring between connector and dimmer.

do this with the connector plugged in, and use a small paper clip to back probe it. check the connector pin fit, and look for corrosion, broken pin.

The wires on my dimmer are blue, Blue/black, and white.
The wires coming out of the harness that the PO had the lights tied into are White/red, Blue/black, and green. I thought I had everything wired up right today, But when I checked it, On high beam everything came on. On low beam the AUX lights came on, the switch That I put in the circuit had no effect on anything. I've tried bypassing the new relay and nothing works. I am starting to think that the problems are originating in the wires the PO tied into with the original AUX lite mod.
Right now, I have no clue what wires were the original light wires and where I should be getting the power from for the lows and highs. I guess I will have to take it to the shop. If I could just get the dang headlight to work right, I could figure it out from there.

[Scrapdog2grand]

what wire are the aux lights tied into?
is that not the wire you want the low beam tied into.
the hot wire from the switch to the low beam should be white.

do the aux lights come on with the high beam?
does your high beam indicator work?