Clutch master cylinder - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

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Old 12-26-2011, 10:20 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Clutch master cylinder

Hello. I recently changed the handlebars on my 85 vt700c to some from an 83 nighthawk. The Shadow bars just had my wrists and arms at an uncomfortable angle. I also had to change the clutch and brake master cylinder's, because the shadow ones mounted at an angle. Well, the clutch master cylinder from the nighthawk doesn't seem to disengage the clutch completely (after some research I've found the nighthawk has a 'short-stroke' clutch), and it leaks. Anyone know of a clutch master cylinder that would work? It needs to have a 90 degree mount for 7/8" bars. Would one from a Magna work? Thanks.
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Old 12-26-2011, 02:43 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Even though the original VT700c's master cylinders mount at a strange angle on the Nighthawk's handlebars, they will probably still work. I did the same handlebar swap on my VT500c and had no problem with the original master cylinder (clutch used a cable). As long as the MC's inlet hole (at the bottom of the MC) has fluid, the fluid level doesn't have to be level. You have to play games with the MC to get it level to check or add fluid, but level is not needed for operation.

This may give you some time to find suitable replacements. I'd suggest MCs from a Sabre VF700s, V45 Sabre, or Sabre V65 since they use a handlebar like the Nighthawk. The Magnas use a buckhorn handlebar similar to the Shadows.

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Old 12-26-2011, 04:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I think your problem might have more to do with the leak than anything else, have you stripped the master cylinder and cleaned it, did you replace the original solid clutch line with a braided line and have you checked and dissassembled the slave cylinder and if you have done all of that did you bleed the clutch at the banjo bolts.

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Old 12-26-2011, 05:53 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks for the reply's guys. I took the nighthawk MC apart completely and cleaned thouroughly. I rebuilt with a new MC rebuild kit, and bleed the lines and banjo fittings using a syringe first, then pumping the lever. The nighthawk MC seems to have no pressure until about half stroke. I have not dissassembled or checked the slave cylinder, but it was working properly before this exchange, and the entire exchange only took a couple hours.
I believe I'll take Extex's advice for now and put the original shadow MC back on till I can find a suitable replacement. Perhaps an Ascot MC would work?
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Old 12-26-2011, 06:32 PM   #5 (permalink)
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When pumping the lever to bleed did you use a spacer so you didn't over-stroke?
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Old 12-26-2011, 07:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Custom85VT View Post
When pumping the lever to bleed did you use a spacer so you didn't over-stroke?
What is the reason for this? Not that I disagree/don't believe...just curious. I've seen it in pic's in manual for demonstration.

The "crooked" MC's will usually suffice. So long as the outlet hole is on the lower end, MC holds sufficient quantity of fluid, etc.

There is bleed hole in bottom of some (MC's) ,covered by metal "tab" (this is tiny hole in bottom of fluid "bowl"). That is difficult to clean effectively, have you checked this?
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Old 12-26-2011, 08:20 PM   #7 (permalink)
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With a non-stock MC in a somewhat non-stock location overtravel from bottoming out the lever could be doing more harm than good, especially with new seals. At the least it wont produce the best bleed and perhaps add to the problem.
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Old 12-26-2011, 09:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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FYI: Be a little wary running your MC at too much of an angle. They will work in ideal conditions but one sharp turn or good lean and you're likely going to suck air.
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Old 12-27-2011, 08:31 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I did not use a spacer.
I do believe I cleaned thoroughly, even in the small holes. After dissassembling, I soaked the MC in carb cleaner and blew dry with an air compressor.
I held the stock Shadow MC up to the bars, and it looks like I'm going to have to have the bike leaned about halfway over on it's side to fill the resevior! Don't think I can hold it there and fill and bleed all at the same time. I just need to find a MC that will work. I've read about having the cylinder honed and getting a larger diaphram, but by the time I paid for that, I could get one off e-bay, if I just knew which one to get.
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Old 12-27-2011, 11:06 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Because of the differences in our language I might have missunderstood how you bled the clutch..pumping the lever..is the bit that bothers me..

You can bleed the clutch by yourself but it might be easier with someone to help.

lid off master cylinder..top up fluid to level mark..spanner on bleed nipple...slowly squeeze lever..while the lever has moved 1/4 inch crack the nipple, continue squeezing lever until about 1/2 inch from end of travel then quickly tighten the nipple..release the lever, (check the fluid level and top up as required) then repeat until the level remains constant, ... now the important part ..the lever at this point is probably still slack with no resistance until about half way and then very little so...repeat what you did with the bleed nipple except instead of cracking the bleed nipple crack the bottom banjo bolt..keep an eye on the fluid level because it may drop dramatically..then do the same on the top banjo bolt..watch that level..now the lever should be hard to pull from the first 1/4 inch of travel...

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