Can anybody ID my pipes?

[DG600]

Hey all,

After a warm welcome on the n00b (er.. I mean, member introductions) forum, the time has come to jump in with the big dogs in the technical forum.

I'm trying to figure out fuel issues on my "new" VT600. To keep this post short, the full description is over in my original post.

When weather & time permit I'm going to pull and clean the carb. Will be my first time doing that. But I got the bike with aftermarket pipes and understand that non-stock exhaust can affect jetting requirements. Did some research and they look like they might be Cobra Fatty Shotgun pipes. Can anyone verify?

This is my bike:


Is it just me or do they look the same? Anyone have other suggestions? Anybody know what size jets these things came with??

Ignore the black stuff on the forward pipe... rode it for only half a mile but it kept part of my boot.

The bike also has what appears to be a K&N air filter. Does that affect jetting as well? I'm assuming... but I don't know much about the subject yet, so please excuse what might be obvious questions!

Thanks for any help (moral support is appreciated as well),

Daniel
Queens, NY
'95 VT600 (name TBD)

[elfnyc]

those look to be the cobras yup - pipes or airbox will effect jetting yes

im not sure but i think that scoot should have or get a stage 1 jet kit

and by the look of your pipes i dont even think its jetted
does it pop and crackle when u let off the throttle ??

[Kitulu]

You usually cannot tell if it is jetted unless you pull the carb and look inside. If you have aftermarket exhaust and an aftermarket air box OR a stock air box with a performance filter, rejetting the carb is a good idea.

For example, on my 750 Aero I have Hard Krome K2 pipes and a Thunder air kit, so I rejetted with a Dynojet stage 2.

[DG600]

@elfnyc: Yeah, minor snap-crackle-popping. And like you see the pipes are blued. Frankly I wouldn't be surprised if it is NOT jetted... especially since the pipes are also missing the heat shields they (apparently) are shipped with.

@Kitulu: Okay, another newbie Q... what's the diff between stage 1 & stage 2? I'm assuming stage 2 is richer? I think I basically have to pull the carb in any case so we'll find out soon. But it's frikkin' cold outside and I don't wanna!

Guess I'll call Cobra today and see if they have any good advice for me. Doubt they'll have anything to say beyond what you guys have already offered, but what the heck.

[93gc40]

Thoser are Cobras. Being Cobra pipes bluing is NOT a sign of a need to jet. Cobras turn blue no matter what. Minor snap-crackle and popping IS a sign of improper fuel mixture. But, MINOR, Pops can often be fixed through adjustment of the carbs, exhaust and timing.

That said ALL stock bikes would benifit from a Stage 1 jetting, performance wise.

Common misconception about jet kits is that they make the mixture richer.. That is not always the case. The difference between a stage 1 and stage 2 kit, is the amount of modifications done to the bike, causing the need to jet, and the performance goal you are after. Also WHERE in the rev range you are adjusting. Dirty rules are stage 1 kits are for minor intake and exhaust mods. Stage 2 kits cover mods to the cam, timing, MAJOR intake and exhaust mods and other internal motor mods. Stage 3 and above would be for racing and extreme cituations. Your typical bike needing a stage 3 or more probably would not be a good bike for street use, these bikes often suffer from stalling at traffic lights, due to fuel starvation or flooding.

[elfnyc]

Originally Posted by 93gc40

Thoser are Cobras. Being Cobra pipes bluing is NOT a sign of a need to jet. Cobras turn blue no matter what. Minor snap-crackle and popping IS a sign of improper fuel mixture. But, MINOR, Pops can often be fixed through adjustment of the carbs, exhaust and timing.

there is only one culprit…EXCESSIVE HEAT!! If your bike is mis-timed….too much heat. Run lean? More heat. Run out of gas? (more air than gas)…heat again! In these instances, more air than fuel will result. And with the induction of more air, temperatures can flair as much as 200 degrees instantly; thus frying the pipes.

[93gc40]

Originally Posted by elfnyc

there is only one culprit…EXCESSIVE HEAT!! If your bike is mis-timed….too much heat. Run lean? More heat. Run out of gas? (more air than gas)…heat again! In these instances, more air than fuel will result. And with the induction of more air, temperatures can flair as much as 200 degrees instantly; thus frying the pipes. This is one of the two main reasons almost all manufacturers offer heat shields. From exotic to psychotic, all factory pipes can discolor.

You are correct as to the causes of Bluing, generally. My comment was directed to COBRA pipes in particular. They tend to blue up no matter how well you are tuned. The bluing on the OPs, pipes looks mainly restricted to the header section which would be blued normally. But you would no normally see it, due that part is ussually under a shield.

[elfnyc]

ahh i didnt mean just cobras lol i love my cobras

[93gc40]

Originally Posted by elfnyc

ahh i didnt mean just cobras lol i love my cobras

Good thing is that newer generation Cobras are much better quality wise than what they supplied a few years ago. Or at least they do better with the shields and plating. I had a set back in 2001, that I burned a hole through, in less than 10k miles, correctly jetted.

[elfnyc]

wow - my cobras are like they just came out of the box - good for me i guess lolol