How to get my 1984 Shadow VT500c running - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

Steffenaj14 · 03-14-2012, 02:41 AM

so here's where i'm at... i bought a 84 shadow with 31,000 miles for $200. it did not start when i got it and does not start as of now. it has been sitting since october when the previous owner put it away. he said he put stabilizer in the gas. when i turn the key the radiator fan turns on (idk if thats normal or if it should or not) then i hit the start button and the starter solenoid clicks. i bought a rebuild kit for the starter and rebuilt it but didn't bench test it while it was off the bike (i'm doing that tomorrow). i had the starter solenoid tested and that was good. i think that it could be the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter, idk though. i am changing the spark plugs tomorrow when i get the right size deep socket. what could be my problem with getting it started?? (if you need more details let me know)

here's what else i plan on doing and what else i have had problems with...

brakes - i changed the front rotor as it was pretty badly worn. was in the process of changing the pads and the two cylinders were pretty frozen and wouldnt compress enough to fit the new pads in (bought from dealer so i know they're correct size) so do i need a new caliper. also the brakes have been bled.
clutch cable - okay so i got a new cable and it is so lose that the handle would touch the grip from it being pushed so far. on the right side engine cover the loop that the clutch cable goes through is broken so i think that that might keep tension on the cable?? so i might need a new cover?? any solutions?

thats all i can think of right now. i will let you know how things go tomorrow and i'll go from there. pics will be uploaded as well!

thanks!

tubes_rock · 03-14-2012, 07:27 AM

Is the engine seized? If not, then your battery is probably weak. Put a volt meter on it while you're trying to crank it. If the battery drops below 9V, you'll never get it started.

The fan should not run when the engine is cold. (In fact, the fan shouldn't run when the engine is hot either unless you're stuck in traffic for a long time!)

You may be able to get away with cleaning the brake calipers with some very fine sandpaper and a lot of patience. it depends on how light your touch is!

Tough to say what you need to do for your clutch without clearer details or pictures.

Good luck! That's a fun bike!

--Justin

still_bluenoser · 03-14-2012, 07:35 AM

You've been working on this for quite a while now, Have you not got a multimeter yet??

And if your really worried about the engine being seized than pull off the small cover on the side of the case and try turning it over with a socket.

Steffenaj14 · 03-14-2012, 09:51 AM

engine is not seized. and yes i know i'm sorry.. i havent bought a multimeter lol. and as far as the battery its brand new. so i know its good. i have pictures of the clutch cable i just need to get them from phone to computer. which will be later in the week.

what do you suggest the problem with the fan is? the wiring is all f#$%ed up because turn signals are wack-o too. well the front left turn signal is lol. there arent any other turn signals yet. but it just stays lit. doesnt blink. headlight doesnt turn on.

and with the brake pads.. i'd rather get my caliper fixed and put new pads on then sand down the old ones and have a broken caliper. to the people who've changed their brake pads before.. do the two round cylinders move freely? the clymers manual says they should. and after a lot of tassle they won't budge. am i looking at having to buy a new caliper?

still_bluenoser · 03-14-2012, 10:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Steffenaj14

battery its brand new. so i know its good.

Dangerous way to troubleshoot electrical issues.

By the sounds of things you really need to go through your electrical system with contact cleaner and an acid brush.

Until you spend the $20 or less on a multimeter your wasting your time...

Steffenaj14 · 03-14-2012, 10:21 AM

alright alright!! i'll get a multimeter..

but in the meantime.. how do i go about the brake caliper problem?

Honda-Rider · 03-14-2012, 10:23 AM

Personally I wouldn't mess with any of that wiring without a meter and the knowledge to use it. Tons of problems can arise from that if you screw around with too much not having a clue what's truly hot, grounded, etc etc.

Like stated, pics of clutch deal will help.

The fan could have been hot wired or switch seized shut. Like stated it should have a temp switch to turn it on and off as needed. Again a meter would be your best friend here. If you had a meter you could ohm out the switch to see if it's stuck closed or even in the circuit period or if it's been removed at a previous time. I've seen bikes wired straight through and the fan run constant, then I've seen em with "manual" switches put in the place of the temp switches when they went out. If your wiring is all messed up it could be bipassing the switch as well but no easy way to check any of this without a meter.

Brakes- you best try to un-seize them if completely stuck is to actually use em. That lever will put more than enough pressure to do this if sanding etc is not an option for you. If you pushes em in to a point then they stopped, my question would be did you open the top cap? May sound stupid but wouldn't be the first time I seen someone try to push in the cylinders and not remember to open the top cap for the extra fluid to flow back up. If that doesn't work, you could open the bleeder valve and try that way but the problem here would be possible seizing while riding due to a lack of pressure release after the lever was used. Are you trying old school way with a screw driver or are you using a decent sized c clamp? Go with the c clamp if not already using it. The cylinders should move, but not sure "freely" is the word I would use due to fact without some sort of mechanical assistance you won't move them at all.

If starter just clicks, only a few possible options really. Not enough juice period, not enough making it to starter, bad solenoid, bad starter. Again, kinda just guessing here and there without a meter since we have no idea what voltage your running and how far down the line it's going.

Advice- buy the tools needed to do the job and do it right to save yourself time and money. Things like putting plugs in would be good for overall tune up based off how the bike seems to have been cared for but at this point the best plugs in the world aren't gonna make the engine turn over.

Steffenaj14 · 03-14-2012, 10:33 AM

right, and i know that. i'm just starting off my "mechanic" endeavors as i'm 19 and this is my first bike. i've changed oil, brakes, small stuff on my car with the help of an older more experienced person. but i want to learn and i love going in and getting my hands dirty and doing it. so this is a learning experience and i appreciate all your help. with that being said thats my excuse for not owning a multimeter. i just bought my first socket set lol. i can carry all my tools in my pockets prolly lol. so i gotta get a multimeter and check out the wiring..

brakes- i had the caliper completely disassembled. all the brake lines were removed, the bleeder bolt had been removed and i tried putting the old pad on the pistons and pushing down. when that didnt work i put a socket extension with a big socket on the end and hit the pad with a hammer. still didnt go down but maybe 1/16 of an inch. so with no pressure, no fluid in the caliper it still wouldnt let me compress the pistons.

taking pics of the clutch cable now.

Honda-Rider · 03-14-2012, 10:44 AM

You'll destroy the caliper before you ever "hammer" that cylinder down. As I stated, cylinders move but "freely" would not be my choice of words. Buy yourself a C clamp from an auto parts store, Walmart etc, it's about the best thing possible to compress the cylinders in. They also make a brake cylinder clamp auto parts stores sell but get the C clamp instead, it's stronger, will last for next to forever and can be used for more than just the brake usage. On another note, when you put it all back together make sure that brake line and bolt all line up with the holes. The caliper, brake line bolt, brake line have to seat right or the fluid will not flow as the tolerances here are very small to be off. If you didn't already, "note to self" score or write a small line on all the parts like that so when you tighten it all back together it all lines back up.
Understand age and learning. We've all been there, I do a lot of my own work also but am still learning some myself. That's why I give advice on the right tools like the C clamp to compress cylinders. Tried many ways on many different vehicles, the only way to outdo the C clamp is a brand new caliper. Lol

Steffenaj14 · 03-14-2012, 10:50 AM

thats what i figured with the caliper. and my dad has a c clamp in his garage. i don't have storage for heavy tools like that. but here are pics of the clutch cable on the right side engine cover

see how the part where the cable runs doesnt have a top to it? its supposed to be a tube where the cable runs through

see all the play in the cable? granted i need a new cable handle tensioner cause the previous owner bent and de-threaded that one. but theres still a lot of play whether that is on there or not.

03-14-2012, 02:41 AM	#1 (permalink)
Steffenaj14 Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 81	How to get my 1984 Shadow VT500c running so here's where i'm at... i bought a 84 shadow with 31,000 miles for $200. it did not start when i got it and does not start as of now. it has been sitting since october when the previous owner put it away. he said he put stabilizer in the gas. when i turn the key the radiator fan turns on (idk if thats normal or if it should or not) then i hit the start button and the starter solenoid clicks. i bought a rebuild kit for the starter and rebuilt it but didn't bench test it while it was off the bike (i'm doing that tomorrow). i had the starter solenoid tested and that was good. i think that it could be the wire from the starter solenoid to the starter, idk though. i am changing the spark plugs tomorrow when i get the right size deep socket. what could be my problem with getting it started?? (if you need more details let me know) here's what else i plan on doing and what else i have had problems with... brakes - i changed the front rotor as it was pretty badly worn. was in the process of changing the pads and the two cylinders were pretty frozen and wouldnt compress enough to fit the new pads in (bought from dealer so i know they're correct size) so do i need a new caliper. also the brakes have been bled. clutch cable - okay so i got a new cable and it is so lose that the handle would touch the grip from it being pushed so far. on the right side engine cover the loop that the clutch cable goes through is broken so i think that that might keep tension on the cable?? so i might need a new cover?? any solutions? thats all i can think of right now. i will let you know how things go tomorrow and i'll go from there. pics will be uploaded as well! thanks!

03-14-2012, 07:27 AM	#2 (permalink)
tubes_rock Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Northern NH Posts: 5,341	Is the engine seized? If not, then your battery is probably weak. Put a volt meter on it while you're trying to crank it. If the battery drops below 9V, you'll never get it started. The fan should not run when the engine is cold. (In fact, the fan shouldn't run when the engine is hot either unless you're stuck in traffic for a long time!) You may be able to get away with cleaning the brake calipers with some very fine sandpaper and a lot of patience. it depends on how light your touch is! Tough to say what you need to do for your clutch without clearer details or pictures. Good luck! That's a fun bike! --Justin __________________ 2010 Honda NT700V 1986 Shadow 700 1986 Honda Trail 110 (Postie Bike)

03-14-2012, 07:35 AM	#3 (permalink)
still_bluenoser Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Nova Scotia Canada Posts: 3,476	You've been working on this for quite a while now, Have you not got a multimeter yet?? And if your really worried about the engine being seized than pull off the small cover on the side of the case and try turning it over with a socket. __________________ 1981 cb750c with 900f forks, cams, oil cooler. 1983 vt500c 1979 cbx

03-14-2012, 10:23 AM	#7 (permalink)
Honda-Rider Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Taylors, S.C. Posts: 48	Personally I wouldn't mess with any of that wiring without a meter and the knowledge to use it. Tons of problems can arise from that if you screw around with too much not having a clue what's truly hot, grounded, etc etc. Like stated, pics of clutch deal will help. The fan could have been hot wired or switch seized shut. Like stated it should have a temp switch to turn it on and off as needed. Again a meter would be your best friend here. If you had a meter you could ohm out the switch to see if it's stuck closed or even in the circuit period or if it's been removed at a previous time. I've seen bikes wired straight through and the fan run constant, then I've seen em with "manual" switches put in the place of the temp switches when they went out. If your wiring is all messed up it could be bipassing the switch as well but no easy way to check any of this without a meter. Brakes- you best try to un-seize them if completely stuck is to actually use em. That lever will put more than enough pressure to do this if sanding etc is not an option for you. If you pushes em in to a point then they stopped, my question would be did you open the top cap? May sound stupid but wouldn't be the first time I seen someone try to push in the cylinders and not remember to open the top cap for the extra fluid to flow back up. If that doesn't work, you could open the bleeder valve and try that way but the problem here would be possible seizing while riding due to a lack of pressure release after the lever was used. Are you trying old school way with a screw driver or are you using a decent sized c clamp? Go with the c clamp if not already using it. The cylinders should move, but not sure "freely" is the word I would use due to fact without some sort of mechanical assistance you won't move them at all. If starter just clicks, only a few possible options really. Not enough juice period, not enough making it to starter, bad solenoid, bad starter. Again, kinda just guessing here and there without a meter since we have no idea what voltage your running and how far down the line it's going. Advice- buy the tools needed to do the job and do it right to save yourself time and money. Things like putting plugs in would be good for overall tune up based off how the bike seems to have been cared for but at this point the best plugs in the world aren't gonna make the engine turn over. __________________ 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C

03-14-2012, 10:44 AM	#9 (permalink)
Honda-Rider Member Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Taylors, S.C. Posts: 48	You'll destroy the caliper before you ever "hammer" that cylinder down. As I stated, cylinders move but "freely" would not be my choice of words. Buy yourself a C clamp from an auto parts store, Walmart etc, it's about the best thing possible to compress the cylinders in. They also make a brake cylinder clamp auto parts stores sell but get the C clamp instead, it's stronger, will last for next to forever and can be used for more than just the brake usage. On another note, when you put it all back together make sure that brake line and bolt all line up with the holes. The caliper, brake line bolt, brake line have to seat right or the fluid will not flow as the tolerances here are very small to be off. If you didn't already, "note to self" score or write a small line on all the parts like that so when you tighten it all back together it all lines back up. Understand age and learning. We've all been there, I do a lot of my own work also but am still learning some myself. That's why I give advice on the right tools like the C clamp to compress cylinders. Tried many ways on many different vehicles, the only way to outdo the C clamp is a brand new caliper. Lol __________________ 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit VT1100C

03-14-2012, 09:51 AM	#4 (permalink)
Steffenaj14 Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 81	engine is not seized. and yes i know i'm sorry.. i havent bought a multimeter lol. and as far as the battery its brand new. so i know its good. i have pictures of the clutch cable i just need to get them from phone to computer. which will be later in the week. what do you suggest the problem with the fan is? the wiring is all f#$%ed up because turn signals are wack-o too. well the front left turn signal is lol. there arent any other turn signals yet. but it just stays lit. doesnt blink. headlight doesnt turn on. and with the brake pads.. i'd rather get my caliper fixed and put new pads on then sand down the old ones and have a broken caliper. to the people who've changed their brake pads before.. do the two round cylinders move freely? the clymers manual says they should. and after a lot of tassle they won't budge. am i looking at having to buy a new caliper?

03-14-2012, 10:21 AM	#6 (permalink)
Steffenaj14 Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 81	alright alright!! i'll get a multimeter.. but in the meantime.. how do i go about the brake caliper problem?

03-14-2012, 10:33 AM	#8 (permalink)
Steffenaj14 Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 81	right, and i know that. i'm just starting off my "mechanic" endeavors as i'm 19 and this is my first bike. i've changed oil, brakes, small stuff on my car with the help of an older more experienced person. but i want to learn and i love going in and getting my hands dirty and doing it. so this is a learning experience and i appreciate all your help. with that being said thats my excuse for not owning a multimeter. i just bought my first socket set lol. i can carry all my tools in my pockets prolly lol. so i gotta get a multimeter and check out the wiring.. brakes- i had the caliper completely disassembled. all the brake lines were removed, the bleeder bolt had been removed and i tried putting the old pad on the pistons and pushing down. when that didnt work i put a socket extension with a big socket on the end and hit the pad with a hammer. still didnt go down but maybe 1/16 of an inch. so with no pressure, no fluid in the caliper it still wouldnt let me compress the pistons. taking pics of the clutch cable now.

03-14-2012, 10:50 AM	#10 (permalink)
Steffenaj14 Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 81	thats what i figured with the caliper. and my dad has a c clamp in his garage. i don't have storage for heavy tools like that. but here are pics of the clutch cable on the right side engine cover see how the part where the cable runs doesnt have a top to it? its supposed to be a tube where the cable runs through see all the play in the cable? granted i need a new cable handle tensioner cause the previous owner bent and de-threaded that one. but theres still a lot of play whether that is on there or not.

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