Another starting problem...

[WindRider]

Alright: Here's what's going on.

Tried to start the bike a while back, and all I got was ONE "click" when the starter button was pressed. Nothing else-no buzz that I could hear or anything like that. Worthy of note was that the headlight and idiot lights did NOT come back on when I released the starter button-it was as if the key was turned off. Repeated presses of the starter button did not yield any more "clicks" or any of my lights.

Battery is pretty new, but the bike hadn't been ridden in quite some time, so I figured I'd put it on the battery tender to top it off as it SEEMED like a battery issue. I did this with the battery in the bike. Battery charged up quickly, and I tried the sequence again. When I turned the key on, there were no lights or anything and the starter wouldn't work-not even a click.

I know about the starter button problems on this bike-in fact, I replaced it several years ago due to that problem. So, I disassembled the switch and cleaned it all out. With the switch still disassembled, I jumped across the contacts for the "starter out" position. No headlights initially, but they eventually came back on, to full intensity after "jumping" across those contacts several times.

I then reassembled the switch, and proceeded to have the same problem with a single "click" on pressing the button followed by no lights afterwards.

I took the battery out (frustrated), and stuck it back on the charger (again-but this time removed from bike), figuring I'd leave it alone for a few days to see if I had an epiphany (no luck). The lights on the battery tender indicated it was charged in a very short period of time.

Several days later, I re-installed the battery and tried to start the bike. Fired up just like normal! I tried this several times over several days without actually riding the bike. Started up each time. (Worthy of note was that I didn't "rev" the engine much-so the battery shouldn't have been getting charged much-if at all-during these short periods of running, further convincing me that the battery was/is OK).

Well, I decided to take the bike for a short ride, and it felt great to get back on after a long time not riding. Thankfully i didn't go too far. It ran great the whole time I was riding it. I made a short stop though, and when I got back on the bike I had the same problem with the bike not starting-just one "click" followed by nothing, and no lights when the starter button was released.

Had the missus come and fetch me, then I rented a trailer and towed it home.

Took the battery out, stuck it on the tender and brought it to a full charge. Then brought it to discount auto where they did a cranking amps test-which is passed well. They couldn't "load test" it there though. The auto zone next door had a machine called a "bear" that could. I had it load tested there, and it passed just fine.

This brings me to today: I'm back at the house, bike is DOA in the garage, and I don't know where to go next.

Any suggestions?

[WindRider]

by the way, the bike is a 2003 Shadow ACE 750 (VT750CDB)

[C.W.]

I did the switch cleaning maintenance on my bike, and it was still acting up. So, I did it again, and it turned out the spring that pushes up on the shunt (contact strip) was weak; wasn't getting contact. So, I stretched the spring out to restore the tension. Also, I noticed where the shunt slide was binding, so I took a hair bit of material off and lubed it.

That worked.

Not saying it's the same for you, but I thought I would throw it out there.

Good luck, C.W.

-

[dgraves49]

I would guess that because you had the battery in and out that the cables on that end are tight and clean, but did you check the other end of the battery cables to make sure that they are clean and tight?

[WindRider]

Originally Posted by C.W.

I did the switch cleaning maintenance on my bike, and it was still acting up. So, I did it again, and it turned out the spring that pushes up on the shunt (contact strip) was weak; wasn't getting contact. So, I stretched the spring out to restore the tension. Also, I noticed where the shunt slide was binding, so I took a hair bit of material off and lubed it.

That worked.

Not saying it's the same for you, but I thought I would throw it out there.

Good luck, C.W.

-

I've considered that, and I might still take it apart again. The thing that has me confused though is why wouldn't it have worked when I jumped across the stationary contacts using a piece of wire, thus removing the thin piece of copper 'bridge' material and the spring from the equation? Ditto for the headlight and idiot lights.

Originally Posted by dgraves49

I would guess that because you had the battery in and out that the cables on that end are tight and clean, but did you check the other end of the battery cables to make sure that they are clean and tight?

Yes, they are. I actually took a small wire brush and made sure that all the surfaces were shiny and free of crud.

[John Hopkins]

You need a multimeter..

The facts..new battery..short charge cleaned switch.. no difference..

took battery out three day charge, refitted battery..worked fine..

guess..

First some battery tenders just do a trickle charge at a few hundred milliamps, this is fine to keep a good WELL CHARGED battery in top condition, but when you buy a new battery it should be initially charged with a charger capable of at least 4 amps..

Second when you removed the battery from the circuit you stopped any small drain that poor connections or anti theft devices might produce..

Third if the charging system on the bike is faulty the ride out could have put enough drain on the battery to make it unable to restart.

Fully charge the battery again and then see if it starts, if it does you have some tests to do..

John.

[C.W.]

OK, well, sorry I couldn't be of more help. I do wish you the best of luck.

Please let us know what you find out, OK?

Laters, C.W.

-

[5l1mm]

i vote charging system.
mostly because it happened to me, and ive gotten those symptoms.

get multi meter, test voltage at rectifyer (more than 12 volts?)
if not check ac voltage from stator.
also check to see if any of the three legs of the stator are grounding out