Carb parts

[CavemanBen]

well its got that long catch tube, besides it realy shouldnt have any fluid in it

[sikewrdpryznr]

Originally Posted by CavemanBen

well its got that long catch tube, besides it realy shouldnt have any fluid in it

And this tube is supposed to be coming off the breather box? If so I'm not finding anything that looks anywhere near a tube on the box lol.

[sikewrdpryznr]

Alright, I put everything back together, and to my dismay, the thing won't start. I'm thinking I may have knocked the plug wires loose under the tank but didn't have enough time to check it.

Or, we have a million caterpillars around our house and I'm thinking maybe one crawled up in the tube that goes from the frame down into the carb and made a cocoon or something lol. I guess I'll have to check tomorrow.

Does anyone have any other ideas as to why it will crank but not fire? We added more fuel and then we tried starting fluid and that just backfired through the carb. I'm gonna check the float bleed off and see if they are getting any fuel also when I look it over real good tomorrow.

[atrent]

Originally Posted by sikewrdpryznr

Alright, I put everything back together, and to my dismay, the thing won't start. I'm thinking I may have knocked the plug wires loose under the tank but didn't have enough time to check it.

Or, we have a million caterpillars around our house and I'm thinking maybe one crawled up in the tube that goes from the frame down into the carb and made a cocoon or something lol. I guess I'll have to check tomorrow.

Does anyone have any other ideas as to why it will crank but not fire? We added more fuel and then we tried starting fluid and that just backfired through the carb. I'm gonna check the float bleed off and see if they are getting any fuel also when I look it over real good tomorrow.

My daughter bought an 83 750 shadow last year and we had much difficulty getting it to start. We found it would start fine if we jumped it from the car battery. So we purchased a new battery with higher cranking amps and lo it started up. It did so a bit reluctantly but it did start. Started to check out the wiring and found a very poor ground connection. Cleaned this up and it started much better. So a combination of battery and ground connections seemed to be a great help. We have since dipped the carbs and replaced the o rings in the air screws with further improvements. It now stars up after 3 or 4 revs even on these 35 - 40 degree mornings. We have foiund that the battery must be up to charge or we willll still have trouble starting

[sikewrdpryznr]

Originally Posted by atrent

My daughter bought an 83 750 shadow last year and we had much difficulty getting it to start. We found it would start fine if we jumped it from the car battery. So we purchased a new battery with higher cranking amps and lo it started up. It did so a bit reluctantly but it did start. Started to check out the wiring and found a very poor ground connection. Cleaned this up and it started much better. So a combination of battery and ground connections seemed to be a great help. We have since dipped the carbs and replaced the o rings in the air screws with further improvements. It now stars up after 3 or 4 revs even on these 35 - 40 degree mornings. We have foiund that the battery must be up to charge or we willll still have trouble starting

Thanks for the information, I had heard about this quite a bit. Today I took off the battery and I plugged it up to the charger and it said it had like 11.9V but the percentage of charge for some reason said 35%. So it's now charging and in the morning I'll plug it up and with a little luck it'll fire up and purr like the angry beast that it is

[John Hopkins]

OK so you took the carbs out and removed the floats, replaced the seats, springs, filters and pistons, then you removed and cleaned the jets and the drain plug o'ring and the pilot jet o'ring, you counted the number of turns in to the stop and reset them that number out...how many was that, it should be about 2.5 turns. and you stripped the air cutoff valves cleaned and reseated the diaphragm in them...

did you use a touch of silicon gasket gel in the grooves to reseat the four diaphragms to that they didn't get pinched when you refitted them.

John.

[sikewrdpryznr]

Originally Posted by John Hopkins

OK so you took the carbs out and removed the floats, replaced the seats, springs, filters and pistons, then you removed and cleaned the jets and the drain plug o'ring and the pilot jet o'ring, you counted the number of turns in to the stop and reset them that number out...how many was that, it should be about 2.5 turns. and you stripped the air cutoff valves cleaned and reseated the diaphragm in them...

did you use a touch of silicon gasket gel in the grooves to reseat the four diaphragms to that they didn't get pinched when you refitted them.

John.

Alright, let me clear something up. I haven't replaced anything in the carbs. I just took them apart so that I could see if anything was wrong. I need to replace the stuff I know but I don't have the cash right now to order the parts and won't for another week or so.

Now, I have taken the bike back apart, made sure there wasn't anything messed up when I put it back together, like nothing clogging the fuel lines or air lines. I also made sure I didn't knock anything loose from the ignition units.

Also, what 4 diaphragms are you talking about? This bike is only dual carb so I only have 2 vacuum pistons. Is that what you were referring to? and yeah it seems like they were fine and not pinched.

I took the carbs back off, and it seems like it was flooding itself. I think the floats are sticking open, but I don't know what I can do with them to keep the needle from sticking.

[John Hopkins]

You have the two diaphragms that you have found in the vacuum chamber and two small ones in the air cutoff valves, I haven't got the invoice for my last carb repair kit but I think it was about $30, you need two, also if you stripped the carbs without a service manual then you may have split the carbs which means they will need to be balanced so that both butterfly valves open and close at the same time..the flooding can either mean the floats are sticking up when they should drop with the fuel level or set at different heights..as the float rises a small piston at the back drops to cut off the fuel, if this piston sticks the fuel will continue to flow..

John.

[sikewrdpryznr]

Originally Posted by John Hopkins

You have the two diaphragms that you have found in the vacuum chamber and two small ones in the air cutoff valves, I haven't got the invoice for my last carb repair kit but I think it was about $30, you need two, also if you stripped the carbs without a service manual then you may have split the carbs which means they will need to be balanced so that both butterfly valves open and close at the same time..the flooding can either mean the floats are sticking up when they should drop with the fuel level or set at different heights..as the float rises a small piston at the back drops to cut off the fuel, if this piston sticks the fuel will continue to flow..

John.

I have a downloaded version of the manual and I have not seperated the carbs at all. I also haven't checked the air cutoff valve but I did try to adjust them when it was backfiring the first time I put it back together. I will check those here in a few but I believe I let them out some so there was more air and it wouldn't run rich.

As far as the floats, I have adjusted them with a digital caliper to cut off at 7.5mm like the manual says, I may adjust that so they don't stay open that long to maybe 8mm or 8.5mm. I believe one of the floats was stuck in the open position and that caused the fuel to flood the carbs. When I pulled the carbs off I noticed that there was a considerable amount of fuel that poured out on the ground.

[John Hopkins]

Originally Posted by sikewrdpryznr

I also haven't checked the air cutoff valve but I did try to adjust them when it was backfiring the first time I put it back together. I will check those here in a few but I believe I let them out some so there was more air and it wouldn't run rich.

No...I'm pretty sure you are confusing the pilot jet with the air cutoff valve..also there is a spring a tiny washer and a tiny o'ring in the pilot jet..don't lose the washer..and you need to remove the pilot jet to clean it out with spray carb cleaner.

John.