Still popping @ 1/4 throttle

[Boatzo]

Some time back I reported that I bought a 05 Sabre with 1200 miles on it. We emptied the tank and flushed it with clean gas. filled it up and added a generous dose of Seafoam. Put in new plugs.

I was getting considerable popping both on steady throttle and on deceleration. I have run 2 tanks with Seafoam through and it is running much better, idles fine, but still pops some at 1/4 throttle. I synced the carbs as well.

I also noticed that the front cylinder/exhaust seems hotter than the back cyl.

Should I get into the pilot screws?

I have read and reread the service manual on carbs and I am dreading removing them and trying to rebuild , clean and reinstall them. It looks daunting.

Any other suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

[FreakShow]

Initial answer: Yes, it sounds like you have a lean condition, get into the pilot screws and turn them out in 1/4 turn increments until the problem goes away.
Don't screw them out past 4 turns; before you start backing them out, turn them in - while counting the amount of turns - until they are lightly seated. This way you know exactly where they were and how far out you actually are.

A little more information may help us help you:
1. What kind of air filter do you have? Stock, K&N, etc.
2. What kind of pipes do you have? Stock, Vance & Hines, Hard Krome, Cobra, etc.
3. Has the bike been rejetted? (I'm assuming not)
4. What elevation are you at?

An 05 with 1,200 miles on it has probably sat for quite a while. There's a good chance that you may have to physically remove the carbs and clean the jets out manually with a bit of carb cleaner and compressed air. Seafoam is good stuff and works wonders for keeping a clean carb clean, but sometimes you just have to do it by hand.

As for the exhaust heat... someone else will chime in who actually knows but it sounds fairly typical. Honda put larger jets on the rear cylinder to help cool them down since they don't get as much air flow to cool them. What were the conditions when you noticed the difference? Was it a substantial difference? Maybe test it with an infrared thermometer if one is available to you?

Hopefully that helps?

[Boatzo]

Thanks for the reply FreakShow. To answer your questions, everything is stock and carbs have not been re-jetted. We are almost at sea level here.

As for the exhaust heat difference, I would not say that it is significant. Your explanation is interesting, I never thought of that.

I am going to run another tank of gas (non e BTW) and then tackle the pilot screws if it doesn't clear up.

[FreakShow]

Hmmm, if one cylinder is getting much hotter than the other there may be a decent sized blockage of fuel into that cylinder. Lean cylinders get hot very quickly.

I would say to pop the caps off the pilot screws and start adjusting them now. Once the caps are off, they're off (duh). Adjustments can be made as much as you want as the screws are easily accessible.

Another tank of Seafoam might not solve the problem and you may need to take the carbs out.

Just spitballin' here but it may also be a float issue on one or both cylinders... Hopefully someone else throws in some more ideas here for you.

[Boatzo]

OK, here is the latest. I popped the caps off the pilot screws and tried adjusting them. On the front cylinder I got NO speed up at all, but did get a decrease in RPMs (no tach, just going by ear) when the screw was almost all the way in. On the back cyl, I got NO change in RPM at all from all the way in to all the way out.

I ran each pilot screw all the way in and backed them out 2 1/2 turns and then backed each out an additional 1/2 turn (3 turns in all). Went for a ride and it ran like crap, popping, bucking, hesitating. Came back and tried the complete adjusting procedure again, still the same, no change in RPMs. I re seated the screws and backed them out 2 1/2 turns zactly. Went for another ride and it ran better/smoother especially at lower RPMs. Still popping alot especially on decel.

I am going to wait to run a couple more tanks through and then if no improvement, I guess I'll have to pull the carbs and clean them.

2 questions: Will the popping hurt anything?

Where does one order the carb rebuild kits?

BTW, on the temperature difference, the front cyl is only slightly hotter than the back. Not significant (I don't have an infared thermometer).

[Shadowmaru]

Popping wont hurt anything but yours or other peoples ears.

I have open exhaust with a stage 3 jet kit and I still get popping on decel.

Leak on the exhaust flange or Leaks in the pipes usually at muffler joints or cross over can cause popping. I've tried everything under the sun to fix my popping and it will never go away.

But if yours is completely stock there is something that is causing this issue. I'm sure that if after cleaning your carbs out (Which honestly is not hard at all) you still have that popping, it is an exhaust problem.

Now as I mentioned before, ripping your carbs apart is no where near difficult, there are a few things your MUST do to save you a lot of problems in the future.

- write down which needle jet goes where (They have numbers stamped on the ends)
- Put EVERYTHING you take off into a ziplock bag (use 2 bags, one for each carb and write on the bag ith a sharpie which carb it is for.
- Score your carb with either 1 or 2 (Or do ONLY 1 carb at a time.)
- Take your time and make sure to clean all the old crap from the float bowl.
- Buy atleast 2 cans of carb cleaner.

While your at it, why not replace your fuel, air, and oil filters? I do mine once a year, usually in the spring.

Let me get you some links for the kits.

Jet kits for Carburetors - Great place for carb kits, cheap too
Ebay.com - Where I get my filters.

If you are going to change your oil may I suggest some rotella t6 ? No slip aditives, heavy duty diesel oil makes my bike lubed like a stripper on a friday lol

Though I've heard it can make some newer bikes fail emissions, but I dont have to worry about that here

[Norelec]

Don't be intimidated at removing and cleaning carbs. They are actually quite easy. I had to re-build my Carbs on my old 1980 CB 650, once you get to them, it's pretty easy.

[Boatzo]

Thanks for the tips on rebuilding the carbs. My eye sight isn't what it used to be and I guess I feel intimidated by looking in the manual at all the little pieces. Anyway, it appears that it is going to have to be done.

85 deg F here right now and I just completed the last of the "honey dos" so I am going for a ride.

[Boatzo]

I have tried in vane to find a carb kit for my 1100 Sabre. All I can find is JET Kits. I have contacted several places and have been told that there are no kits available. I wanted to have a kit available when I open the carbs up to clean them in case I find damaged "O" rings or diaphrams or gaskets? Not having done one of these before, maybe I am expecting worse than I may find. I suppose that I will have to order individual parts if I find bad ones?

[brujah]

here's the gasket kit for your bike. As you can see, although there are 100's of different shadow model names through the years, the actual bike didn't really change that much.

http://www.cheapcycleparts.com/produ...rts-gasket-set

As Freakshow stated, your best bet is just to pull the carbs. Then you will know they are cleaned properly. Set aside a few afternoons to do the job (that way you don't feel rushed to finish it in one day). If you feel it would help, take pictures of everything you take off.

Don't separate the carb bodies from each other, and then you don't have to worry about balancing them. Open one carb at a time, so you don't mix up parts. Be easy on those small screws that hold the float covers on as they strip out easy (I used an impact screwdriver to loosen them, and then replaced them all with the same size socket head bolts).

Read my thread on popping on decelleration here:

Popping on Decel - Fixed!

You CAN do this, just take your time. There are plenty of threads on how to properly clean the carbs, and then you can say you did it yourself!

Have fun!