Any Advice for a Noob Starting his First Rebuild 84 VT700c

[Bladerunner]

sorry, dbl post, cant figure out how to delete.

[Science.Dan]

So I've been on the lookout for used air tools on craigslist and I think I may have hit jackpot. This guy had some pretty old snap-on and IR impact wrenches and ratchets, and I went to go check them out this morning at his former auto repair shop. Said he was moving and needed some quick cash to get to Arizona. When I arrived, he had the three tools sitting next to this box:



And guess what was inside...



I saw an opportunity and jumped to buy the whole lot. Some of the stuff is in questionable condition, but I could probably repair or resell those things.

What's the best way to clean up and test these air tools? I don't want to hurt myself. I hooked everything up to the compressor at the guy's garage before I bought them. Everything but the ratchet seems to work well. The ratchet has some loose housing and spins fairly slow (~80 rpm?). It also sprays a lot of oil from the housing. Looks like an air leak I would guess, but I've never operated any of these kinds of tools.

Also what is the Leather punch looking tool with the wire and alligator clip? It's all the way to the left. There is another one like it without the wire in front of the box...

[Bladerunner]

you did well dan, the " leather punch" tool looks like a trouble light, should light up if 12v is put to it, you clamp it to neg on your battery to see if something is getting power, by touching the pointy end into a wire that should have power. the other one is likely just a punch. ratchets normally are a lot slower than impact guns, so that sounds about right. above the timing gun, you have what looks like a remote starter, one clamp goes to positive on battery, the other to your starter, or the starter post side of your starter relay, enables you to crank engine without using the key, good for timing an engine by yourself. the mic looks like a digital mititoyo, if so it is worth around 140-160 new.
looks like a sweet deal.

[Science.Dan]

Alright here is the list of tools based on your suggestions. Thank you everyone:

Tools that I have or that are on the way:
-Standard Craftsmen tools and the like
-Power Drill (for cleaning wheels, but thinking of getting a pneumatic grinder)
-Ultrasonic cleaner
-Dremel Tool
-torque wrench
-impact driver
-Air compressor (but on the look out for a larger one)
-Air Impact wrench rated up to 1100 ft/lbs (overkill)
-Air Ratchet
-Air Die Grinder
-Propane Torch
-Breaker bar
-Sand Blaster (20 Lb. Capacity Pressurized Abrasive Blaster)
-Set of brass wheels for die grinder
-feeler gauges
-micrometer set from 0-4"
-telescoping bore gauge set
-Honda Shop Manual (of course)
-Clymer manual (don't lie; it's like comfort food)
-4x4 wood blocks and other various wood stacking devices
-Camera
-baggies and a marker
-Cylinder bore honing tool (probably don't need)
-Timing light (I always wanted one of these, but will I need it?)

Still need to buy:
-Valve Compressor tool - (noticed there are several types; anyone have a good recommendation for a decent one <$20?)
-Blaster medium - I think I'm getting 80 grit glass beads. Does anyone have a cheaper recommendation? I've heard that sand can damage aluminum and gets stuck in the metal which leads to rusting.
-valve lapper kit - need to figure out the size of my valves. Also my book just says "lapping compound" but it seems that there are different grits and variations among compounds. The book does mention clover brand which I found on ebay. But I think I'm going to get the cheaper

permatex valve grinding compound

permatex valve grinding compound

. I will probably get this

prussion blue dye

prussion blue dye

too so I don't grind off more than I need too. Anyone know what size lapping tool I need?
-air compressor rated >6 cfm (preferably 8 or 9) - I don't want to spend more than $150 but I might not be as lucky as mattyo. Will continue to watch ebay patiently
-notebook (why not)

On the fence:
-air paint sprayer
- stainless steel bolt kit (really $30 for 30 bolts? I'd pay more if it included every visible bolt on the bike.)
-Bearing puller (say what?)
-motorcycle lift (isn't that what the center stand, wood blocks, and an extra pair of hands are for?)

(BTW John, my bike is hydraulic clutch but thanks for the suggestion, reminds me I need to get a new choke cable.... again - and some zip ties)

Alright I have more than enough tools to get started.

[John Hopkins]

Originally Posted by Science.Dan

(BTW John, my bike is hydraulic clutch but thanks for the suggestion, reminds me I need to get a new choke cable.... again - and some zip ties)

Alright I have more than enough tools to get started.

I know you have a hydrolic clutch, the clutch line is a solid copper tube part of the way and sometimes breaks at the steering head, replace it with a braided hose..it will save future problems and is cheaper than an OEM clutch line..

John.

[Science.Dan]

Originally Posted by John Hopkins

I know you have a hydrolic clutch, the clutch line is a solid copper tube part of the way and sometimes breaks at the steering head, replace it with a braided hose..it will save future problems and is cheaper than an OEM clutch line..

John.

Ahh. Sorry. I could have sworn your post said "braided cable". thanks for the suggestion

Cheers

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S II

[Science.Dan]

Well I finally removed most of the parts on the bike so that I can get the engine out of the frame. As of this afternoon, everything seemed ready with the engine resting on a wood block and my floor jack. One last look around the bike to check for any problems, and then I was ready to transfer the engine to the floor dolly.

I manged to convince one of my room mates to break free of his video game to help manage the jack and supports while I muscled the engine over on my own. He's not one to jump in and help a friend in need so I was very thankful he was willing to to even do that. So after he removed the jack and supports and the engine was in my hands he walked off. LOL Oh well.

Unfortunately I had a lot of trouble pivoting it alone. What would have helped is if I removed the gear shift spindle and rotor as the Clymer manual suggested. I didn't do this because the Honda shop manual has NO mention of this whatsoever. Plus it looked like I would be able to pull it right out (didn't realize how far the drive u-joint goes back). You probably can navigate the engine out with all of it still in place, but it considerably harder with the limited clearance in the bulky frame and only one person with one set of eyes fixed from the lifting view point... yeah. To all those people who bash on Clymer manuals as barely worth using as TP.... Climer 1 - Honda Shop Manual 0.

I got wedged in a nasty place because I was bringing the engine forward and the ujoint out without realizing the gear shift spindle and rotor needed to clear the left side of the frame first. Then I got the heat fins on the front cylinder wedged... ugh... Yeah piece of advice. Take off the rotor and spindle and find a real buddy to help you lift it out.

After about 5-10 minutes of wrestling with the thing, I decided to lay the bike over in the grass and pick the engine out. Actually it was kind of a desperate move because of the way I had wedged the engine, it seemed like a lot pressure might have been on the spindle and rotor. I saw this really cool trick at the int motorcycle show this last winter where a 120 lb woman picked up a heavy Fat Boy Harley that had been tipped over. Here's a video of another girl doing for the first time (

How to pick up your motorcycle - YouTube

How to pick up your motorcycle - YouTube

) I just reversed the process and got my bike and engine in a much relaxed position. Seriously helpful skill to know if you ever find yourself needing to pick a bike up btw.

*sigh*

With the bike on it's left side, I still couldn't get the spindle and rotor to clear the frame. I decided to try and remove the rotor and spindle (which I have never done).

Problem with the rotor is that it spins the gears when I try and torque the bolt off (c-wise btw). I couldn't figure out how to lock the gears. I thought about putting a screw driver in the primary gear but then decided against that cause I didn't want to break any teeth. I noticed the u joint was turning. I was able to stop that, but the gears still spins. It was starting to get dark so I decided to try the spindle since that would probably be enough to clear the frame.

No luck there either. I think I'm supposed to remove some sort of gear shift spindle plug to do this. The clymer book says it's a real pita to get out. I was able to get a large flat head screw drier under leverage lip of the plug, but I bent a rather girthy screw driver trying to get it out. At that point it was dark and I was just getting into more trouble.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to remove the rotor (by locking it in place) and/or removing the gear shift spindle plug (or more importantly the spindle itself)?

I'm going to try and find some answers in the honda shop manual and online and then start with this plan of action tomorrow (hopefully with a friend):

1. Attempt to back the engine drive shaft u joint back into the slot so I can clear the rotor and spindle

if that doesn't work

2. Try and find a better way to lock the rotor during brighter daylight. And then remove it.

if that doesn't work.

3. Roll the bike into the grass and lay it on the other side where I can just pick the frame up off of the bike.

Thank in advance for your help. Hopefully tomorrow I will have pictures of the engine on my work bench!

(TL : DR I'm having trouble removing the rotor and gear shift spindle and subsequently can't get the engine out of the frame because of clearance issues.)

[Science.Dan]

Well I got it out. The advice this noob didn't know was that the U joint floats between the spindle on the engine and the spindle on the drive shaft. It had come out half way of both ends and was keeping me from pivoting the engine without wedging it way far forward. Took a screw driver and pushed the sucker back into the drive shaft and that freed the engine. The whole thing lifted right out.

Finally the oily, dirty engine is on my work bench! What a mess. *phew*

[stowed4sea]

Hey Dan, I've got the 330 page official Honda shop manual for the '83 VT750C and
84-85 VT700C bikes. It basically tells you how to tear down the bike completely and put it back together again. It has very good pictures and specs for every single thing on the bike. If you want it just tell me where to email it to.

[Science.Dan]

Originally Posted by stowed4sea

Hey Dan, I've got the 330 page official Honda shop manual for the '83 VT750C and
84-85 VT700C bikes. It basically tells you how to tear down the bike completely and put it back together again. It has very good pictures and specs for every single thing on the bike. If you want it just tell me where to email it to.

Thanks but I already have it. Some things just aren't in the shop manual.... Like you're to properly get the spindle out of the u joint. Probably obvious to most people, but not to someone who had never
Seen it.
Sent from my Samsung Galaxy S II