Any Advice for a Noob Starting his First Rebuild 84 VT700c

[Science.Dan]

Well I've been flirting with the idea for a rebuild for the last 2 years, and now the time has really come. My new gasket set is ordered from Vesrah and will be here on Friday (not that I'll have the engine torn apart by then). Tomorrow I will take a ceremonially last ride along PCH and then start taking the engine apart. Honestly I'm a little choked up just thinking about it. For two years this was my only mode of transportation. The thought of tearing it apart and trying to put everything back together is daunting.

Anyway I plan on cleaning up all the engine parts, sandblasting, and then repainting everything while I have the bike in pieces. I could use as much advice as you guys are willing to offer during the process.

For now, I'd like to get a list of all the tools I will need for the rebuild. I'm sure I'll make a few trips to the store for various cleaning wheels and such, but I could use some help on some of the bigger purchases that require a little research to get the right one.

I have already:
-Standard Craftsmen tools and the like
-Power Drill (for cleaning wheels, but thinking of getting a pneumatic grinder)
-Ultrasonic cleaner
-Dremel Tool
-Air compressor (but will probably being buying a bigger one)


Planning to Buy:
-Breaker bar/steel pipe
-Valve Compressor tool for removal
-Sand Blaster (20 Lb. Capacity Pressurized Abrasive Blaster Anyone oppose this one?)
-Blaster medium?
-brass wheels for valves
-valve lapper kit
-nylon wheel for gasket removal
-feeler gauges
-micrometer (any suggestions on a decent one for <<$$$)

On the fence:
-pneumatic impact wrench
-pneumatic grinder
-pneumatic paint sprayer

Thanks in advance for your advice!

[mattyo]

That's a pretty thorough list!! Nice! So I'll first comment on your list:

-air compressor (assuming sand blasting)
Well, I have a 30gal, 150psi rated at 10cfm (it takes 240V) with 3/8" ID hose to the blaster to maintain high flow rate. And I've blasted for 1-2 hours straight with pauses to get a better grip on the part, rotate the part, examine the part, exchange parts etc. and my compressor has always kept up with my blasting. I'd even say that for the rate at which I blast, I would probably be okay with a 20gal. But you will want to find one rated at least 8-9cfm because that's what really matters with blasting.

-sand blaster
Depends how much blasting you want to do at a time. Smaller tank means you need to fill it back up with blasting media more often. And it's also annoying having to drain the pressure off the blasting tank, refill it with media, and then wait for the tank to re-pressurize. Well, I found it annoying anyway.

-nylon wheel for gasket removal
I haven't tried the 3M disks but apparently they're pretty good, and also pricey. I have tried a nylon wheel from Menards and it scratched the h3ll out of aluminum. In the end I found the HF disks to work very well for stubborn gasket removal. Pack of 5 2" Fine Grade Fiber Grinding Discs Which brings me to the pneumatic grinder?

-pneumatic grinder
YES! Definitely get one of these. I've used it with brass wheels for valve clean-up, abrasive discs for gasket surfaces, sanding wheels for cleaning misc. parts, and holes and what not. It's a must! (Air Die Grinder)

-pneumatic impact wrench
Well that's a difficult one. I only had to use it 2 times but the 2 times I had to use it, my brother's 250 ft/lb was not strong enough. So I bought a random 800 ft/lb from Menards, took off the 2 nasty McNasty bolts/nuts and then returned it. So from my experience, yes impact wrenches are a god-save but you might have to get the biggest baddest thing you can get your hands on.

So things I'd add to your list, depending on how far down the rabbit hole you're going:
-blasting cabinet (unless you're going to blast outside, but that will still make quite the mess, I would do it in your neighbor's yard. )
-impact driver (something like this -> Impact Driver- Craftsman-Tools-Auto & Mechanics Tools-Auto Specialty Tools)
-bearing puller
-torque wrench
-propane torch? (the only way I could get stubborn dowel pins out)

And a couple other things that helped me:
System of a Down, Dream Theater, The Dillinger Escape Plan....
Pale Ales, IPAs, Stouts, Pilsners, etc...

I'll add things I think of later...

[CBH]

I use my air tools all the time! They save me a lot of time and labor. The 3/8" air ratchet and 3/8" impact gun with deep well sockets probably get more use than anything else.

[Bladerunner]

A Reversible Impact Driver Set if you like really great tools and money is no object....

http://www.zorotools.com/g/00015907/k-G1690945?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc &utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&kw={keyword}&gc lid=CKSFz5Xn568CFUvDtgodUik12w

Or if you are a cheapskate like me

Reversible Impact Driver Set - Harbor Freight Tools

I have found this tool to be invaluable working with older bikes, I have this theory, I call it the rule of one... there will always be one screw that won't come loose, or boogers up the threads, or breaks in half, etc.... it's a work in progress, but I have seen it happen with appalling regularity. At any rate, this works really well because it drives the screwdriver deeper into the screw, biting harder than you can by just pressing in...works best if you use it BEFORE you screw up the slot/phillips head...

[Bladerunner]

Doh!, I just saw mattyo already said what I did, oh well, if ya don't have one, you need one... has saved many a bolt for me.

[Bladerunner]

As far as a mic, i can advise you quite well on this, having been a machinist for the past 12 years. you can spend an ungodly amount of money on starrett or mitutoyo mics, but for the tolerances you will be working with, this set will be fine,

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

I have used these for years, and they rival starrett in accuracy (+- .0002)...beyond that, it almost becomes subjective to temperature, your mood, the planet's alignment, etc...

Bore Plunger Set - Harbor Freight Tools

These are for checking internal bore, you set the proper size inside the bore, then tighten the plunger, remove and measure with a mic.

[Science.Dan]

Originally Posted by Bladerunner

As far as a mic, i can advise you quite well on this, having been a machinist for the past 12 years. you can spend an ungodly amount of money on starrett or mitutoyo mics, but for the tolerances you will be working with, this set will be fine,

Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

I have used these for years, and they rival starrett in accuracy (+- .0002)...beyond that, it almost becomes subjective to temperature, your mood, the planet's alignment, etc...

Bore Plunger Set - Harbor Freight Tools

These are for checking internal bore, you set the proper size inside the bore, then tighten the plunger, remove and measure with a mic.

Ho hum, I shouldn't ask questions if I'm going to challenge the answer. I was actually thinking more along the lines of a caliper like this style:

Amazon.com: True Power 6"(150mm) Stainless Steel Digital Vernier Caliper with Inch Fractions/Decimal SAE/Metric Unit Display & Conversion #446: Home Improvement

Amazon.com: True Power 6"(150mm) Stainless Steel Digital Vernier Caliper with Inch Fractions/Decimal SAE/Metric Unit Display & Conversion #446: Home Improvement

? It says it's accurate up to... oh huh, I see now. It's not actually a micrometer if it doesn't measure down to 10^-6 meters. Ok well it is accurate up to 10 um (~0.0005 in) which is only slightly worse than the set you showed me (right?).

It seems like this style would allow me to more accurately measure bore size? Plus there's just one tool instead of 10. Then again I guess I probably wouldn't be able to measure the pistons with this because the frame of the caliper would not allow the spindle and anvil to reach the midline of a cylinder with a >3in (?) diameter... or would it? Ok i'm starting to talk myself out of the cheap way. I should just take the advice of the professional.

[John Hopkins]

A camera and a notebook so that anything you undo goes back easily, including colored wires...

A stainless bolt kit

download the Honda PDF manual

Use the torque wrench on everything

replace the fixed clutch line with a braided hose

You don't really need to invest in expensive tools to measure the bores, you can take them to an engineering firm that does rebores and they will measure them for you..probably in a few minutes while you wait..buying very expensive measuring tools is for people that do this for a living, not for just one bike..A cheap vernier with a digital display will be all you need..

when you have the bike stripped as much as you are going to, sand any rust off the frame and repaint it with a good quality paint, you only need a brush for this because it isn't going to show but will protect.

Support the frame either from roof trusses or by making a frame around it with a scaffold tower to prevent the bike from falling over while you are removing or replacing parts..block the wheels with 4x2 until you remove them..

John.

[Piner]

I agree with John Hopkins.. using a camera and note book has saved my bacon on a few occasions.
I suggest a bike lift... Harbor Freight has a 1500 lb capacity one on sale for $99. Even at full price they are affordable.

[Bladerunner]

Calipers would work ok, and for most things, they are real handy. But in my experience the cheaper digital calipers were very hit and miss, you might get a good set that was very accurate, or get one that gave you a different measurement every time. We bought about 12 pair of different types in the shop i worked in, and only found one that gave reliable results, but we considered it a fluke because 2 of the same brand were flakey. Calipers as a general rule are supposed to be accurate within +-.002, and even though those read to a resolution of .0005, if ylou look at the paperwork you get with them, they will usually say "accurate to within .002" my digital mitutoyo calipers are the only exception I have seen to that, and they only claimed accuracy of +-.001 they also cost $176, so take that for what it's worth.
Your service limit (total allowable wear on piston to cylinder wall clearance) has a variance of only .0013 which I would not depend on calipers to measure dependably.
You seem to be approaching this project methodically, and that attitude will give you a much higher success rate, and far better quality of workmanship than diving right in and having to backtrack when things don't turn out right. The mic set I showed you will be far more accurate, and using the plunger set, you can measure not only the top, but the middle and bottom of the cylinder as well (as outlined in the manual)..you do have the shop manual downloaded? if not, get it, it is really the best tool you will have, (besides your ability to take things one step at a time, and do the best you can, not shortcutting yourself)
all that being said, if you don't know how to read a mic, it can be kinda tricky, there are many resources online to help you, of if you know a machinist, they can show you as well. Or as has been suggested, taking it to a shop where they have all the tools and letting them do it is a great idea, I was assuming you wanted to have the tools to do it yourself, but if you don't plan on doing more than a few rebuilds, this may be the better option.