98 VT1100C3 Electrical Issue - Page 2 - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

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Old 06-03-2012, 07:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm thinking ignition switch. I'd check it with a volt meter to make sure it's working right before plunking down money for a new switch.
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Old 06-03-2012, 09:50 PM   #12 (permalink)
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because there's still a few mysteries of the universe that I haven't cracked yet (like why do my car keys keep walking around)
But, when I ran a parts store, we would see batteries with bad cells. The symptom is: when you turn on the lights, or put any load on the battery, the draw on the battery would actually charge the weak cell and the lights would get slightly brighter because of the increase in voltage, but there wouldn't be enough amperage to start the vehicle since only 5 cells were working correctly and the 6th was acting as a load. Does this describe "slow to come on"?
A bad ignition switch or loose connection (which is essentially what a bad ignition switch is) would result in an across the board drop in the amperage and voltage getting to the starter motor but you wouldn't see the gradual increase in voltage. Fuses either allow power through them or they don't. No in between.
I understand that you replaced the battery. You might have gotten a defective battery, or a bad batch of electrolyte. It happens. Did you try what I said in my previous response - Let it sit for an hour or two after fully charging, and then check the charge with a meter? Better yet, try hooking up a different battery. It doesn't have to have enough amps to start the bike. Turn the ignition switch on. Does it do the same thing as the other battery, gradually come up? I would be really puzzled if it did.
The only other thing I've seen act remotely this way is a loose surface mounted component on a circuit board, that when you apply power, arcs enough to soften the solder enough to make the connection.
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Old 06-09-2012, 05:17 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Howdy all! Just a follow up on all this.

I heard from the mechanic yesterday. The contacts in the ignition switch were too heavily corroded to make a connection - hence no fire when I turned the key. He got it cleaned up and the bike is running fine now. I should have it back in a couple days!!

Thanks again to all who responded. I hope this thread is helpful for someone in the future.

Later,

Jason
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Old 06-09-2012, 08:27 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easttex View Post
Howdy all! Just a follow up on all this.

I heard from the mechanic yesterday. The contacts in the ignition switch were too heavily corroded to make a connection - hence no fire when I turned the key. He got it cleaned up and the bike is running fine now. I should have it back in a couple days!!

Thanks again to all who responded. I hope this thread is helpful for someone in the future.

Later,

Jason
Good, I`m glad to hear you`re back up and running
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Old 06-09-2012, 11:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Have you checked the starter cables, you might try to hot wire the starter , if cranks ok, the starter relay might be the problem.
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Old 06-10-2012, 07:07 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by easttex View Post
Howdy all! Just a follow up on all this.

I heard from the mechanic yesterday. The contacts in the ignition switch were too heavily corroded to make a connection - hence no fire when I turned the key. He got it cleaned up and the bike is running fine now. I should have it back in a couple days!! Thanks again to all who responded. I hope this thread is helpful for someone in the future. Later, Jason
Thanks for posting your successful result. These type of threads help all of us. As always and above all...ride safe.
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