83 VT500C Plethora of Problems

[Chavalche]

Hi-ho, neighboroonies,

I've got all sorts of issues with my 83 VT500C that I have absolutely no clue about because I'm kind of a moron when it comes to mechanical things. I learn pretty fast, though, so I was hoping some of you guys might take me to school.

Problem Numero Uno is the fact that I have to put my motorcycle into 3rd gear, find a nice stretch of road, and start running as swiftly as the wind. Once I have reached terminal velocity, I drop my clutch and my engine magically starts. Now, while this is fun and undoubtedly amusing to bystanders, it would be even MORE magical if I could somehow start it by pushing a button. Say one on the handlebar.

Problemo Two relates to my engine hestitating or some such. Sometimes, when holding down the throttle, it sounds like my engine is under water. It will do this for maybe a second, then it will return to normal, roaring like a lion and doing it's best to kill me while I try to merge into traffic. This is probably not the ideal situation, if I might say so.

Thirdly, the engine will sometimes just die while idling. I have the idle screw set so it's at about 1,100 RPM at idle, but this doesn't seem to help all that much.

Fourth, when he gets nicely heated up, Hasslehoff (as I lovlingly refer to him) will begin to accelerate on his own for a while before remembering that I actually let off the throttle for a reason.

And finally, my steed, when the mood strikes it to move, will backfire like a mofo when decelerating. I've heard people say the words "running rich/lean", but I am an idiot and don't know what to do with this mysterious information.

Here is what I have done to attempt to remedy my various maladies:

1) Replaced spark plugs
2) Charged battery to full multiple times
3) Cleaned the carbs according to the Clymer manual's recommendations (i.e. cleaning the jets and innards, but not separating the two carbs apart or soaking them in the cleaner)
4) Prayed
5) Looked at my motorcycle with my brow furrowed
6) Replaced the air filter

That's about it. I need help because I don't know what to do next. If anyone is willing to help me out, it would be much appreciated. Like I said before, I'm a moron when it comes to these sorts of things but that is only because I've never had an opportunity or reason to learn. I sort of knowingly bought this clunker for $400 because I knew I would have to work on it and get a chance to learn some of this stuff.

So there you have it, chaps. I need you. You don't need me... Unless you want something translated into Spanish, in which case I am your guy.

Help me before I die from running with a 400 lb. monstrosity beside me!

[luisr320]

My, my... you are indeed in trouble.

Ok. Best strategy when facing a multiple problem e to tackle one at a time.

So, let's start with problem numero uno.
Why doesn't the electric starter work?

1. Have you checked the fuse next to the battery?
2. Does the other lights come on?
3. When you press the start button, what happens?
4. Do you know how to use a multimeter? Can you get one?

These will do for now.

[Chavalche]

I haven't checked the fuse. I didn't realize there was one beside the battery.

The other lights (head lights, control panel lights, etc.) all come on when I turn the key in the ignition. When I hit the starter, the lights all get weaker which I'm guessing comes from the power going to the starter.

When I push the starter button, it sounds like it wants to start oh so badly, but it never really does (unless it has just been running, then it will start probably 75% of the time). It just chugs and chugs and chugs.

I could probably get a multimeter if they aren't super expensive but don't know how to use one. I'm guessing I could probably figure it out with Google, though.

[presly]

I would suggest - problem One seems related to the starter - maybe worn out brushes, easily repairable with something like this STARTER REBUILD REPAIR KIT HONDA VT500 VT 500 SHADOW | eBay
problems Two and Three I think are related to rust in fuel tank, which isn't uncommon for a nearly 30 year old bike(like mine) - there are some threads here on forum addressing the issue. Of course it's a PITA, but is solvable. I would start with changing fuel filter first.
Problem four - get those carbs cleaned properly and check the membranes. It isn't a rocket science, since you have the manual. By the way - how is your mpg? If carbs aren't OK, then fuel consumption raises like hell....

[luisr320]

As presly says it may be a starter problem.
But it may be a battery problem.

Try this: use your car battery connected in parallel to the bike's bat (+ to +, - to -) and try to start it.

Sometimes the battery seems ok but internally there are short-circuits that doesn't allow it to work properly.

[Chavalche]

Okay, first of all, thanks to everyone who is helping me out!

Today, I was tinkering around a little after work and found a hole in the air box (maybe? the thing where you take the cover off the side and pull the air filter out) where the reserve coolant take had rubbed a hole through it because it wasn't fastened properly and would chase the side of the box with a bolt every time the rear brake pedal was depressed. I took a picture!

Would this be causing any of the problems I'm experiencing? Or is this a new problem altogether? Also, how would I go about checking for rust in the fuel tank? When I cleaned the carbs I didn't really notice any residue. They were actually really clean, at least as far as I could tell.

Many thanks!

[Chavalche]

Eh.. The picture didn't post like I was expecting. Dang it! I'm supposed to be good at the internet! http://i.imgur.com/PBFuw.jpg That's where it is.

[Tobias]

Check the battery. Is the fluid at the right level -IE between the high and low lines?
Check the output from your battery and make sure it's in proper parameters.
If you decide to jump the bike from the car, remember NOT TO START the car. The car's alternator could damage your bike's small battery. Just use the car battery as-is. It'll be plenty.
Get a battery tender. Rather, get the battery tender junior. It's the smaller one, cheaper, and will do the same as the bigger, more expensive ones. It'll charge up/top off/maintain your battery when you're not riding it. Look it up, it's easy.

'83 VT500c only weighs 300 lbs. See picture in signature.

Check the sides of your carburetors. There are two factory adjustment screws (one per side) that are plugged with metal caps. If the caps are there, you know it hasn't been touched. If they are gone, you will see the screws set inside and you know that someone's fiddled with it already. If they're visible and have been fiddled with, try tightening them until they juuuuuust touch bottom. Do not pressure them in, just get them lightly seated. Once they're in, turn them 2 1/2 to 3 /12 (3 is the general "go to" number but some are different and, well, OLD) turns out (counter clockwise) to adjust the carburetors. Synchronizing them will require a tach that will register 50 rpm difference. The one on the dash is not good enough. You basically fiddle with those screws until everything is running nicely. That's basically how to synch the carbs. You have the throttle screw where the cables come down from the throttle, I'm sure you know about that. Get it running, warmed up, and set that first to give you a base line if you're going to tinker with synching them. Also, look up more detailed instructions than what I gave you. I'm assuming you don't have the external tach and such so you probably won't mess with that. I paid someone to do mine, it's not too expensive and doesn't take long.

You can take your carbs out and make sure they're clean inside and that all the little parts are working properly. Make sure the needles are good, seating, moving easily, etc. Make sure the floats aren't sticking. Make sure nothing's gummed up.

Make sure your choke isn't sticking. You should oil/grease all of the cables on the bike or replace them. Make sure all the cables move smoothly and easily. The choke cable runs from the handlebar through the frame, and then there's a big DOINK in the line where it splits to two cables. One cable goes to either side of the bike, into the carbs. They are set in with a plastic nut. Peel the rubber back from the nut so that it turns freely (you'll see what I mean the second you try and turn it without freeing it) and back them out. Make sure they move freely and there's nothing in the carb where they go. Clean out any amount of anything that isn't carburetor inside those holes and make sure the choke ends are also clean and free of ANY debris.

If it's not starting and your battery seems ok, check the charging system. I haven't done this so this is where RTFM comes in to play. Multimeter time.

The acceleration continuing after you let go of the throttle sounds like you should check your throttle cables and make sure they're moving freely in their sheaths. Make sure the handle is moving freely and easily. Make sure the springs and such on the carbs that picot when you use the throttle are oiled up and moving freely and easily. WD-40 is a good start, or light weight oil to just get them lubed up nicely. If it's sticking, it's not right. Make it smoooooooth.

Mine pops a little on deceleration as well and I've had mine tinkered with. Maybe I just suck at it, maybe the guy I paid to not suck at it sucked at it, I don't know. Mine isn't terrible, so I deal with it. I'll get it figured out when I find a mechanic that I A) trust and B) doesn't want my first born for services.

You replaced the air filter......was it a paper/cardboard one or was it one the the permanent ones that you clean and oil? They have "kits" for cleaning the perm ones. They consist of 2 cans of stuff. Cleaner and oil spray stuff. The permanent ones are easy to spot because they look tougher, less like paper and more like......material that doesn't suck and come from China (even though it probably does), AND it will have wire mesh over the non crappy non paper whateveritis that it's made out of. Sorry, I'm forever forgetting technical terms. I recognize them when I hear them but half the time can't recall them off the top of my head. Although, I'm sure you're ok with "doohickey" and "thingy" as long as I can describe it, no? You seem like a smart guy.

Oh, you already cleaned the carbs. Um, then scratch that part up top where I told you to. (It's up there somewhere)

Oh, I had a little issue with my engine sounding like it was underwater when trying to pull from a stop into traffic. I wasn't giving it enough gas. I was letting the throttle down as I was releasing the clutch and it made...THAT....noise. I did it 4 or 5 times and realized that my right hand was sabotaging me. Get the RPMs up and let the bike bring them down by letting the clutch out. Practice in front of the house. Rev up and let the clutch out to get moving while NOT adjusting the throttle with your right hand until you're moving. Rev right, release left. If it gargles on ya, use more gas. If it's screaming, you're too high. I don't know how long it's been since you last rode or what your riding experience is. I was separated by almost 20 years from last bike ride to riding mine and back then it was just little dirt bikes. Anyway, give that a shot. Mine hasn't gargled at me since I figured that out. It sounds dumb, but that was my issue.

Fuses......there's a main fuse under the seat and another one in the dash. You have to take the tank off to get to the one in the dash because the 2 screws holding it in face down on top of the tank. There ought to be a spare in the dash one. Mine blew and there was a spare there. Which reminds, me, I need to buy new spares and stick them in the spares slots. But if your lights and such are coming on, it's probably not the fuse.

Check the solenoid. It's by the top left of the battery. Make sure the contacts are clean and the wires there are good. It's small, sits in a round rubber holder and has little rubber caps on the wires. If the battery is low but lights come on, you'll hear a clicking sound from somewhere when you try to start it. That's your solenoid. My battery was low from sitting. When it was outta juice, it gave a half assed whir, maybe no whir, and a clicking sound. Mine was because battery needed charging.

Oh, have you tested your ignition coils? I replaced mine because they were testing....weird. Not even necessarily BAD, but weird. Another multimeter test. Also, my plug wires were old. If you pull the ends off, you'll see the wires inside. There are screws in the caps where they connect. Trim off the ends if the wires are gunky, rusty, or not visible. Only trim a tiny bit off until you get/see good wires. Then screw them back into the caps. If they're good, just screw them back in and move on.

I hope at least SOME of this is helpful. I have my nightmare thread here..... '83 shadow VT500c problems!!!! just in case any of my problems shed some light on yours.

GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Tobias]

Oops. Double posted.

[luisr320]

So did you try to use other battery to start that engine?