Also, if you'll read about that clear, it's in fact a 2 part clear, as I was talking about before, that has a button on the can for sending the activator in to the can to mix with the clear. That is a great alternative. I myself use a 2K primer/sealer from Dupont (about $125 for a gallon setup, not bad at all). The new 2K products, which are actually an epoxy, work fantastic. I'd also like to add, if you take anything down to metal you'll need a sealer and a primer, or like I use, a 2k primer/sealer in one. Without it, if there is any metal exposed, it could rust or begin to lift from the metal since it has nothing to bond with properly. If you have a good base, for example, factory paint that isn't taken down to the metal, you won't have to use a primer. Just wet sand the part with 320grit until smooth, clean the area throroughly (Dawn dish soap is great just make sure the part dries completely before painting), wipe down with a tack cloth, and you are ready to spray your paint. The can primer has a tendency to take FOREVER it seems like to dry enough to watersand, and it also has a tendency to 'bleed through' the paint (you can see through the paint where it was sprayed). I know because we used to use SEM High Build Spray Pimer in our shop to do minor repairs, but have quit using it because of the problems it causes.
1997 Shadow VT600c VLX
"Never let anyone stand in the way of your freedom. Live to Ride, Ride to Live"
Ride bell by Robert "Guardian" Woods.