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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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When I bought my bike in May, the PO warned me the turn signals took some time to warm up. I never understood why turn signals would need to warm up, but I also never had a problem with them so I ignored it. A month or so ago the air was cool enough to become noticeable, and eventually annoying.
This morning (about 30 degrees F) I decided it's no longer annoying—it's dangerous. I have a left turn into my office parking lot, immediately after a busy intersection. This morning I hit the left blinker about 1-1/2 blocks before the entrance, but the blinker still didn't come on until after I was in the parking lot. After a few searches, I've read (like here) that the relay is heat activated, which explains why it needs to warm up. On the same thread, however, it doesn't sound like switching relays solved the problem. So before I go and spend money on a new relay that might not work, has anybody solved this problem on their Shadow?
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1998 VT750CD - Starting slow... Aiming to see all of VA on two wheels:
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 4,331
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It's not an electrical problem per say. Flasher relays and circuts, don't need to be wormed up. This is a dirty switch problem. See when the switch grease gets dirty and cold it gets hard and prevents the contacts of the switch from contacting. next switches to decide to do this will be the starter button or run/stop. handle bars switches are an often neglected service item of the bike. Just remember, every time you wash the bike, some of that dirt ends up inside those switches. This means you need to occasionally takethem apart and clean and grease them. The grease is important, it cleam contact cleaner longer and prevents corrosion from the constant expossure to elements and rinse water.
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93 VT1100C Harley Killer (1150cc), VH Exhaust, 2mm sleeved and bored, Modified Heads and Valves, Adjustable Timing, Touring Seat, Baby Apes, Metzlers ![]() ![]()
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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I wouldn't have guessed that because the signal does start working after an amount of time, but it does tend to make sense. I'll see if I can't find time to pull the switch off and clean it out this afternoon.
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1998 VT750CD - Starting slow... Aiming to see all of VA on two wheels:
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 501
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Put an electronic flasher on it and you will be good to go. They are cheap. Mine was doing the same thing on cool mornings. This fixed it.
Sent from my iPhone using MO Free
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 4,331
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Quote:
By the way the Relay is just a switch. Could be dirty also. Have you tried spending the $2 on a new one?
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93 VT1100C Harley Killer (1150cc), VH Exhaust, 2mm sleeved and bored, Modified Heads and Valves, Adjustable Timing, Touring Seat, Baby Apes, Metzlers ![]() ![]()
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 33
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Mine was doing the same until I read the How to: on switch cleaning.
After about 10 minutes, some mineral spirits, small brush, tiny flat screwdriver, contact cleaner and some new lightweight grease it's like new. The tiny flathead is good for scraping off the old carmalized grease BTW. It is a bad feeling turning without your signals working, it's hard enough being seen with them on.
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'02 Shadow 750 Spirit National Cycle Street Shield EX Cobra Pipes |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 57
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Don't forget: They can fail to turn off, too. I'm in that boat. I've been having that problem for some time. The signals turn on, but won't turn off the first time.
Sent from my iPhone using Motorcycle.com Free App
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![]() '98 VT1100C3, 17,000+ miles, Nat'l Cycle bags, Cobra highway bar, Küry offset highway pegs, Cobra driving lights, unknown exhaust, Küry ISO grips. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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wow! I thought it was just mine, started after I installed the Signal Minder unit & had to put the foam things in the switch. I greased it but think I overdid it since mine are very hard to turn on in the cold too..
good info, I'll be taking mine apart - again - for the umpteenth time
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![]() -My Octane explanation- "The trouble with quotes from the internet is that you never know if they're real or not". - Gandhi |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 229
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Mine were behaving in every screwy way possible, including working as hazards, not turning off, one shutting off entirely, etc. Contact cleaner spray was not enough. Had to do a complete disassembly, grease removal, contact cleaning, and dielectric grease to get normal function again.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Rochester, MN
Posts: 79
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Remove the screws indicated by red arrows and remove assembly. Then clean really good by wiping off old grease and dirt as indicated with green arrows and reapply dielectric grease to all($3).
Also, the white plastic housing assembly (looks faded white/cream color in photo) under the flat metal bar slides up and out fairly easily. Remove it as well and clean in good too.
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1998 Shadow 750 ACE Bunch of others |
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