Age aint nothing but a number...rite... 83 vt750 problems

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by justinmahn

Check the operation of the kickstand cutoff switch, if it has one. For the bolt, you can dremel a flathead slot into it. Failing that, the seat bolt should be long enough to shave the head off, and back it out with vice grips.

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This bike doesn't have a kickstand cutoff switch.

[justinmahn]

Rodger on the no kickstand switch.

The supposition on the last ditch effort on the seat bolt (failing all other attempts) was that after the bolt head was removed, the seat would come off. Then there will be no tension on the threads, and enough threads left above the fender to grab with vice grips. Again that's a last ditch effort.

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by justinmahn

Rodger on the no kickstand switch.

The supposition on the last ditch effort on the seat bolt (failing all other attempts) was that after the bolt head was removed, the seat would come off. Then there will be no tension on the threads, and enough threads left above the fender to grab with vice grips. Again that's a last ditch effort.

The problem that 83shadowVLB is having is that the bolt is more like a stub coming out from the rear mud guard (fender), where a hole in the seat enters, and is tighten with a nut. If that nut doesn't come out and he has to cut it, there won't be enough stub thread to hold the seat. Fortunately there are two stubs, so as a last resort he can end up with only one, or maybe weld a new stub.
But I'm sure a vise grip will do the trick.

You can see the nuts on the stubs here:



Just to be sure, this is what I'm talking about:

[justinmahn]

Well strike me out on all counts. My bad!

[83shadowVLB]

you guys are awesome man thanks, i will post again once i get the vise grip and other things

[luisr320]

So how is that nut comming along? Did you managed to get it out without damaging the stub ?

[83shadowVLB]

i didnt have time to do it was at work but i will try tomorrow and let you know , thanks again man

[93gc40]

Originally Posted by luisr320

So how is that nut comming along? Did you managed to get it out without damaging the stub ?

Dont worry about dammaging the studs.... If you hurt them you just replace them with a bolt inserted from under the fender.

Does this bike have a clutch or nuetral switch. Does bike idle? and accept throttle when in nuetral. OR does it ONLY die when in gear?

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by 93gc40

Dont worry about damaging the studs.... If you hurt them you just replace them with a bolt inserted from under the fender.

Does this bike have a clutch or neutral switch. Does bike idle? and accept throttle when in neutral. OR does it ONLY die when in gear?

See? That's why I still consider myself a complete n00b. I would never had thought of that. I would ask some friend to weld a new stub. That's why I really enjoy this forum. I never stop learning from you guys.
Thank you.

Regarding the clutch switch, I see where you're going with that. This bike has a clutch switch on the clutch lever (sorry for stating the obvious). It is a normally open circuit. When you press the clutch, the switch will open. If the bike is out of neutral, you can't start it unless you press the clutch lever. So if the switch was malfunctioning, you could only start the bike in neutral. And as soon as you engaged 1st gear, the engine would dye. If this happens, then the problem would be the switch.
Good catch, 93gc40.

[presly]

Originally Posted by luisr320

It is a normally open circuit. ......And as soon as you engaged 1st gear, the engine would dye. If this happens, then the problem would be the switch.
Good catch, 93gc40.

No way. Try disconnecting the wires from the clutch switch - the bike will run fine, but won't START, unless on neutral - BTDT.
To the TS - sure the carbs need cleaning, and pay special attention to stucked enrichener(choke) lines.
Good luck and congrats for the bike - maybe one of the finests in the history of motorcycles!