Age aint nothing but a number...rite... 83 vt750 problems

[83shadowVLB]

Originally Posted by 93gc40

Dont worry about dammaging the studs.... If you hurt them you just replace them with a bolt inserted from under the fender.

Does this bike have a clutch or nuetral switch. Does bike idle? and accept throttle when in nuetral. OR does it ONLY die when in gear?

sorry I'm a noob what bolt inserts under the fender?? and yes the bike chooses when it wants to idle or not but it has started to be exact i would charge the battery in my house go out insert it and get it started 3 times max by luck but when i would try to pull of and give it gas and release the clutch it would shut off. and sometime it won't even go back to neutral sometimes. and yes the bike accepts throttle in neutral.

[83shadowVLB]

Originally Posted by presly

No way. Try disconnecting the wires from the clutch switch - the bike will run fine, but won't START, unless on neutral - BTDT.
To the TS - sure the carbs need cleaning, and pay special attention to stucked enrichener(choke) lines.
Good luck and congrats for the bike - maybe one of the finests in the history of motorcycles!

thanks, i really aint sure on how to take off the cable but the guy who sold it to me said he replaced the chock cable. so what should i be looking for on the lines ? thanks again

[83shadowVLB]

Originally Posted by luisr320

See? That's why I still consider myself a complete n00b. I would never had thought of that. I would ask some friend to weld a new stub. That's why I really enjoy this forum. I never stop learning from you guys.
Thank you.

Regarding the clutch switch, I see where you're going with that. This bike has a clutch switch on the clutch lever (sorry for stating the obvious). It is a normally open circuit. When you press the clutch, the switch will open. If the bike is out of neutral, you can't start it unless you press the clutch lever. So if the switch was malfunctioning, you could only start the bike in neutral. And as soon as you engaged 1st gear, the engine would dye. If this happens, then the problem would be the switch.
Good catch, 93gc40.

yea i was thinking about that but I've rode the bike before and so did the owner when brought to me , but it just keeps having problems running consistently

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by 83shadowVLB

sorry I'm a noob what bolt inserts under the fender?? (...)

Did you managed to remove the nut that hold s the seat? That nut is screwed on a stub that is welded to the rear fender. If on your efforts to remove that stuck nut, you end up ruining that stub, or even if the only way that nut comes out is by cutting it with a dremmel cut disk, you could always cut the whole stub from the fender, drill a new hole where the stub used to be and later on, when you want to put the seat back on, you just insert a bolt with approximately the same dimensions from underneath the fender.
But try to remove that nut first and we'll see what you should do next.

[vonh]

If you don't know what your doing it might be cheaper to let a mechanic do the work, it's $500 well spent if your going to get frustrated and not enjoy the work!! If your up for it first thing is get a beer and enjoy the work it can be real fun and challenging!! next trouble shoot the jobs and do one thing at a time. Sounds like a few problems. 1) get a good manual. 2-stalling-change the gas filter, new plugs, new air filter, and rebuild carbs. 2) not starting- test battery,check power to starter, follow the test procedures in your manual to solve these problems!! To remove the bolt thats stuck, like the man said heat it and remove it or grind it off. And don't use vice grips unless you absolutely have to, get good 6 point sockets, they won't strip the bolt head to begin with.

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by 83shadowVLB

thanks, i really aint sure on how to take off the cable but the guy who sold it to me said he replaced the chock cable. so what should i be looking for on the lines ? thanks again

Those choke cables end up on a couple of cylinders that are pushed in and out from a hole on the carburetors by the chock lever.
They are attached to the carburetter by a black plastic nut. Here, check out these photos from my disassembly:

With choke attached (black rubber boot)

Without choke attached


See the yellow cylinder on the foreground? That's the choke. Be careful not to loose the spring if you take it off from the cable.

[83shadowVLB]

ok so i should remove it carefully, thanks i ill be attempting to remove the carb. on wed. my day off so any advice on what to take out first and what to look out for? also I'm buying some carb cleaner liquid and I'm going to full up a bucket with it and place the carb in it after is that how its done.?

[83shadowVLB]

Originally Posted by vonh

If you don't know what your doing it might be cheaper to let a mechanic do the work, it's $500 well spent if your going to get frustrated and not enjoy the work!! If your up for it first thing is get a beer and enjoy the work it can be real fun and challenging!! next trouble shoot the jobs and do one thing at a time. Sounds like a few problems. 1) get a good manual. 2-stalling-change the gas filter, new plugs, new air filter, and rebuild carbs. 2) not starting- test battery,check power to starter, follow the test procedures in your manual to solve these problems!! To remove the bolt thats stuck, like the man said heat it and remove it or grind it off. And don't use vice grips unless you absolutely have to, get good 6 point sockets, they won't strip the bolt head to begin with.

ight man thanks I'm going to attempt to work on this thing I'm on a budget and i want to know my bike inside and out for future references. also any ideas where i can find an air filter and gas filter for cheap?? thanks again

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by 83shadowVLB

ok so i should remove it carefully, thanks i ill be attempting to remove the carb. on wed. my day off so any advice on what to take out first and what to look out for? also I'm buying some carb cleaner liquid and I'm going to full up a bucket with it and place the carb in it after is that how its done.?

You must get the manual and follow the instructions from the manual. You can get it from the sticky here on the forum or from my own server clicking here:

http://www.linhadafrente.net/Honda75..._1983-1985.pdf

If you are on a budget, don't print it. Just use a laptop next to your bike and follow the instructions.

After opening the top of the carburettor be careful with the sliding diaphragms. They are about 100$ each.
Also be careful with the jets. They are made of brass and brake easily if you force them out with a screwdriver.

DO NOT SEPARATE THE CARBURETTORS UNLESS IT IS NECESSARY.

Be careful with the needles, they are very thin and easily damaged.

So after openeing both end of the carburettors, remove the sliding diaphragms and the rubber gasket from the bowl (you should have a new ones to replace in the end).

If you have carb cleaner in a spray can, spray the hell out of it. It it is in a container, drop the whole carbs in it overnight, but remove the diaphragm first. They are made from rubber and my not like to be in there for long.

If you can, take out the main jets, and see if they are clean.

I have lots of photos that I took from the work I did on mine, so if you want I can post them here for reference.

Also, take some photos of your work and post it here for our enjoyment.

[luisr320]

Originally Posted by 83shadowVLB

also any ideas where i can find an air filter and gas filter for cheap?? thanks again

Air cleaner: part #5
Air Cleaner Honda VT750C Shadow 750 1983 OEM Parts - Cheap Cycle Parts

As for the fuel filter, the OEM is expensive. I found a couple that look just like the original one and cost about 6$, but I'm not sure if they are exactly the same.