help with gear shift rod replacement

[proto]

Originally Posted by luisr320

With a puller. That stuff if pressed real hard in there. Not even Thor could pull that one out with his hammer
Anything else will damage the flywheel. Use the right tool for this one. The hammer for the rest.
Perhaps Mattyo has an idea for you. Try to PM him.

The local dealer here is closed on sundays and mondays, so I s'pose I shall wait until tuesday.

I know you can make a home-made one, but I may as well just wait a few days to get the right tool.

[proto]

I am almost there! I got my flywheel puller, threw on a 22mm socket on the impact drill I have, and the thing popped right off. I have pictures of what is left, I cannot figure out how to remove the spindle even though it's right in front of me:







it appears the way it is placed in there it wont simply pull straight out...any ideas? Lacking information in the service manual for this one.

[proto]

Originally Posted by Machinehead

I haven't read the entire thread, but to replace the left side spindle (spindle A in the manual) the cover, flywheel/ starter clutch and guide plug would need to be removed for access <snip>

I think this is the key to my shifter rod's freedom. Unfortunately, I have no idea how to remove this piece - apparently there is a slot somewhere on it to pry it loose with a flathead, but the plug is buried in a very awkward angle under the frame and I don't even know where to start to get this thing out.

Any tips on getting this out?

[proto]

Soo with a little bit of patience, elbo grease and 45 mins later I pried it off with two screw drivers. wew, what a tough job.

The spindle A came out nicely and I lined up the teeth with the new one. a few bashes with the rubber mallet to get that guide plug back in, put the new gasket on, all the gears/rotor back on, cover went on, clutch slave cylinder back on, filled the bike with oil and....wont start.

damn, back to the drawing board. I put the shifter back on, and rocked the bike and shifted - it goes through all the gears just fine, and goes into neutral just fine. the neutral light does not come on when it is in neutral, I suspect it wont turn on because of a killswitch issue or something. any ideas?

[rickou812]

Originally Posted by proto

Soo with a little bit of patience, elbo grease and 45 mins later I pried it off with two screw drivers. wew, what a tough job.

Can you post some pics of exactly what you are talking about here and how you did it?


Thanks

[proto]

sure. here is what I was talking about:



The red circle is the actual guide plug, when pushed in it pushes against the spindle A to keep it from coming misaligned with spindle B (I think). Green arrow points to the gear linkage (not shown) where the two spindles align. I took two screw drivers, one very long one and a medium length one, to both of those little pry points. at first I felt like I was getting nowhere. then I realized after examining the guide plug, it was slowly, slowly coming out, so after a few pry sessions of being gentle yet firm with the pressure, it just popped right out. Have to say, removing the flywheel was much, much less difficult than this little sucker.

Anyways, I buttoned everything up after swapping the gear shifter rod (spindle "A") and proceeded to fill it with oil to test for leaks. at first site, no leakage. Then there was some minor leakage on the left side and I fear the crankcase cover might have a leak on it somewhere, although I tightened all the bolts as much as I could.

This morning as I examine it, I don't see the leak anymore. I expected the oil pan I had under it to be full with oil, but checking the oil level with the dipstick and its fine - possibly residue leaking from the guide plug when I pulled it out and put it back in?

Although the neutral light is not working on my console, I pulled the clutch in and took the kickstand off - and was able to activate the starter. the engine seemed to turn, I think, but it just won't start.

I suspect the battery is drained enough to not allow me to start the bike. I am going out to get a nice battery tender to let it charge all day while I'm at work.

meanwhile, I may pick up a bunch of fuses while I'm out to rule that out. The bike only has like 6 fuses on it - 4 little 15 amp fuses behind the control panel indicator lights, and what seems to be another fuse on the left side of the bike next to the battery, and I'm not sure where the last one is.

I still need to bleed the clutch before I can operate it, even if I can get the engine going. I'd still like to get it started just to keep the carbs from sitting too long with gas in them, it's been almost 3 weeks since I've been able to start it.

[proto]

Bought a battery tender from my local honda dealer. dang this thing is nice and simple to use!

fully automatic tender which works on dry and wet batteries, plugged it in and battery is charging. I'll probably give it a shot tonight after work to see if I can get the engine started.

meanwhile, I still have two repairs left: the clutch needs to be bled, which I have done a lot of research and reading up on, seems like a simple process just need to be careful of not letting reservoir empty and to make sure I squeeze out the trapped air completely. The second repair is much simpler, need to replace the left rear blinker stem. I am using the busted up one from the accident, which was broken nearly into two pieces. I simply wrapped it heavily in electrical tape and from a distance you can't even tell.

I moved the bike to another spot in the garage, put a piece of cardboard under it and am monitoring it for oil leaks. from the looks of it, if there is a leak it is very minor and I will most likely just drive it to a mechanic to have any leaks fixed. All state is breathing down my neck about helping me with the accident, I've had 3 agents call me since I filed a small claim at a local doctors office to get my road rash cleaned and wrapped up. They sent me a check for pain and suffering, and also want me to send in receipts for all the parts I bought.

I've never truly dealt with an insurance claim before, but damn allstate has really impressed me. I guess I should wait until I see my higher premium before I gloat about them, hah.

[proto]

update: the battery has been charging for 12 hours, tender is now green and blinking (fully charged battery). Tried to start her up and...nothing.

Here's the symptoms:
-the neutral light does not show up on my control panel display. the bike is definitely in neutral.
-the controls work fine (blinkers and horn) and pulling in the clutch with the kickstand up will allow me to activate the starter.
-the engine sounds like it's turning over to me (I can hear the exhaust *Puff* sound) engine sounds like its turning over very slowly, it does not start. occasionally I will hear the *clunk-clunk* of what I think is both cylinders turning over.
-the OD light is on.
-the fuel light is not on. sometimes it will appear for a moment right after I turn the ignition key on, then disappear. the oil light is also not on.

any help at this point would be greatly appreciated.

[luisr320]

That is very weird. So you have some lights that should be on and are off. And you have some lights that should be off and are on. Is that it? Did you disconnect any wires beside the battery? And if you did, did you check the way you connected those wires back?

[proto]

yeah the OD light comes on when I turn the ignition key, then fades after a few seconds. the neutral light is not working.

battery is fully charged, I can hear the engine turn when I try to start it, 2-3 starting attempts and I can smell gas (sign that the engine is getting flooded) so It would appear to be an ignition problem (electrical).

I think the problem may be beyond my ability and I am looking around for a local mechanic - found one that looks very promising this afternoon.

Still have plenty of time until the good riding season is back, so I'm not in a big hurry to get it back on the road. especially since its been snowing all weekend.