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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
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Hey guys,
amateur mechanic here, am having trouble using the service manual to figure out how to replace this piece on my bike (84 vt700c). So in the accident I had a few weeks ago, the bike laid onto its left side and the gearshift pedal was bent quite a bit, as well as the bottom of the left crankcase cover getting scraped up/smashed up a bit, and the rubber oil stopper getting creamed, making me lose all my oil. I have a replacement crankcase cover and oil stopper/new gasket (thank god for ebay) and have taken off the left crankcase cover. I also noticed that the rod (not sure what it's actual name is) that the gearshift pedal is attached to is also bent, although from what I can tell I could still shift gears with the bent pedal on the bent rod, so it looks like all I need to do is replace the rod with a straight one (picked up one on ebay) but I'm not sure how to get it out! I have the funny feeling I'm going to have to disassemble the right crankcase cover and remove most of the inner workings in there to get it out, am I? any advice is appreciated. I can post pictures of what I'm talking about as well. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
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dear god, I think I found the answer...according to the service manual, I have to remove almost everything from the right crankcase and the very last piece I pull out is the gearshift spindle that I need to replace...
have to remove clutch, oil pipe, oil pump gear, drive chain, drive sprocket...eee much more work than I thought it would be. any helpful hints on making this process easier? |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Visalia, CA
Posts: 4,463
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Quote:
__________________
93 VT1100C Harley Killer (1150cc), VH Exhaust, 2mm sleeved and bored, Modified Heads and Valves, Adjustable Timing, Touring Seat, Baby Apes, Metzlers ![]() ![]()
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#4 (permalink) | |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
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Quote:
What would be the best way to prevent the crankcase from getting too dirty while I wait a few days for the parts to get here? the left side I loosely fit the cover back on, should I do that or tape a plastic bag over it? |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
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Update on my project - I've ordered all the parts I need, but After thoroughly examining the process to get to the gearshift spindle, I have decided it is beyond my abilities and equipment I have available. (I don't have access to anything for removing the engine from the frame)
I've re-assembled the left side and threw on the damaged gearshift pedal just to test the gears and see if there is any actual mechanical issues other than the gearshift spindle being bent. Bike can switch gears and go into neutral just fine, huzzah! (yes, it goes into first gear as well). I did note that the clutch lever did feel pretty loose, almost like it was not attached. but the bike shifted just fine, *shrug*. Looks like I can at least get the bike up and running temporarily for me to limp it to a mechanic. Any ideas of what a mechanic would charge to replace the gearshift spindle? I have all the parts, it would just be labor. (including gaskets, oil stopper etc..) should be getting my new gearshift pedal in the mail tomorrow too, although after second though this one looks very salvageable with a little bit of hammer work. from googling I can't really get an accurate number, I see anywhere from 50-600 bucks. Anyone who has a better guess of what a fair price is would be awesome so I don't get cheated. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 166
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If the gearshift is operating correctly and no oil is leaking past the seal I would say the odds are that it's just the outer part of the spindle that is kinked. Pictures ? Why would you want to spend good money fixing it if it works with no issues ? You may have to put a little bend on the pedal to compensate but no big deal, I've owned fixed and ridden worse. The loose clutch feel you talked about is also something that may be worked through. Is your clutch operation cable or hydraulic ?
Chris. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 85
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according to the owners manual it's a hydraulic clutch. Honestly I'm a beginner mechanic and I honestly don't really know the difference between the two types, other than they also are referred to as wet/dry clutches.
...as far as why I would pay to get it fixed, it's more of a perfectionist feeling I guess. if something is damaged I have a hard time not replacing it to try and keep everything in pristine shape as possible. If I have it in my budget, I'd much rather get it fixed. I'll try to take a picture of it tomorrow. Last edited by proto; 11-28-2012 at 03:58 AM. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Lisbon, Portugal
Posts: 519
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Regarding the clutch, it is possible that when the bike was laid down on its side, that some air got into the line. Just bleed the line and you should be fine.
Open the clutch fluid reservoir, Pump, pump, pump, hold last one in, open bleeder, close bleeder, and restart until you are satisfied. Then refill the reservoir. You may have to refill it more then once during the whole procedure. Regarding the shifter, "If it ain't broken, don't fix it". Happy biking. |
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