Carb install trouble - insulator - tutorial - 1994 Honda Shadow 600 VLX

[SuperiorKolours]

Just thought I would make a thread about this to try and help. I noticed several other threads about having a really tough time getting the carbs back on and being able to fit one in and have a half inch more to go on the other side, ect.

Here is how I did it....

First let me start of by saying the manual says to attach the insulators to the carbs and then put them on. I found this to be impossible. (more on that later) Also this is for a 94 VT600C. Your model may vary.

Ok, first I would like you to take a look at the inlet manifold (ports on the cylinder head) and notice they are egg shaped. Thicker on one end and thin on the other.




Ok, now take a look at the carb insulator and notice it has this same form.



Ok now comes the part where I think people mess up.

The manual says to line up the groove with the "lug" of the carb. I tried this but the problem is that the insulators need to stretch and when you try to install the carb with the insulators already on its no longer lined up when you have to stretch it onto the inlet manifold.

So I determined that its better to install them on the inlet manifold first, because the opening on the other side of the insulators is just round.

It's easier to push in the carbs because they are just round then try to push in the inlet manifold which is egg shaped.

(Lubricate the insulators. I used WD40. You can use whatever these people argue about that is best on rubber. Additionally you may want to heat the insulator up if your doing this in the winter to make it more flexible.)

To do this, you need to install the right side (front cylinder) insulator first. Make sure you are matching up the correct side of the insulator. Egg shape to egg shape. Once you know you are matching up the right side you need to line up the groove with the notch on the bottom of the inlet manifold.

This...


to this.


Make sure it is seated correctly and all the way down. Now, tighten down the insulator band on the inlet side. Leave the other one loose.

Leave the other insulator (rear cylinder) off.

Push the carb into place and set it onto the insulator we installed. Don't push it in, just line it up and leave it sitting on top.

(At this point you might want to install all your hoses ect. I didnt. I waited until I had the carb back on and tightened down.)

Now this will be a bit of a pain but with a little work you will get it in...Now take the other insulator (rear cylinder) and slide it in between the carb and the inlet manifold.

*NOTE* one side of the insulator is shorter creating an angle.


I got it in by pushing up on the carb to try and create space and by sliding the narrow end in first. Pushing and poking and proding with a screwdriver or two will probably be necessary. I noticed the weight and cramped space of the carb makes it want to go into the insulator first but you want to get the insulator attached to the inlet manifold first. Once you get it wedged in between there you will have to spin it around and line up the groove and notch again. This is were the lubrication really comes into play. It should spin pretty easily if you lubed it up good enough.

Now push it down and make sure it's seated correctly. By lining up the groove and notch it will perfectly line up those egg shapes. Tighten the lower insulator band.

Now is the last tricky part.

Now try to center the carbs over the holes on top of the insulators. I ended up getting the front cylinder insulator side of the carb in first. This wedged the the rear cylinder side in crooked but it seemed like the only way to me.

I then took a screwdriver (the kind with the interchangeable tips) and just took the tip out (you can use whatever you want) and set it at the correct angle and tapped the carb into the insulator with a mallet.


Tighten up the insulator band on top and that's it!

Hope this works for you!

[SuperiorKolours]

Please VOTE if you like!

[steed2death]

thanx for sharing..

[93gc40]

Good wrire-up..... But I find the INstal the easy parts. Couple minutes of pushing vs 30 of pulling and prying.
FWI the ports on the heads are NOT egg shaped, on the OD which is what matters. The ID looks eggshaped, but that is due to the hole being at a angle to the plane of the OD surface. Vasolene on the IDs of the boots, after heating with hot air or water and push. Everything just pops into place.