Brake Pads (best?) - Review

[SuperiorKolours]

I'm looking to buy some break pads and with all the options out there, I'm wondering which ones are the best. I found this so I thought I would share...

Here is a write up and results of a recent magazine test.



Replacing one's brake pads frequently means opting for expensive adaptable options. Three types are available of the best motorcycle brakes, (Sinter, organic and sport), offering variable performance levels, pleasantness and durability.

Brake pads are "consumables" that should be replaced periodically. The choice of adaptable over original brand models is frequently driven by cost considerations. The criteria are not, however, limited to this simple duality. Braking distances, pedal sensations and wear speed must also be taken into account. Thus, technologically similar to the original items, Sinter pads are compared here to organic and sport models. In all, we tested 12 models specific for Kawasaki Z 750, ER-6, Suzuki SV 650 and Bandit motorcycles, whose prices range from 23€ to 42€ (compared to 58€ for the original pads). To distinguish the best motorcycle brakes in an objective manner, bench testing was used to determine their ability to brake disc rotation (friction coefficient), along with wear speed. Stopping distances were measured using a braking performance tester and finally, pleasantness was determined by road tests. On completion of this report, it should be noted that, from a safety standpoint, there are no dangerous brake pads. On the contrary, the most efficient models do not allow motorcyclists to reduce braking distances! Organic pads (entry level) are ill-suited to the high temperatures of racing use. Sport pads (the most expensive) do not offer any genuinely higher efficiency on track, but wear faster than Sinter pads, which represent the best value for money option.

Method
To assess braking performance of the best motorcycle brakes in efficiency and pleasantness, we subjected all compared pads to the same tests. Behavior: the same testers assessed the bite, power and progressiveness of each set of brake pads before filling in an identity sheet. Hard braking: on a track, the same motorcycle (Kawasaki ER-6f with ABS), fitted with a braking tester that measures braking distance and progressiveness, was used to perform a series of emergency stops at 60 kph (using the front brake only). Measurement bench: provided by CL Brakes, this bench records (after identical run-in times), a brake pad's ability to adhere to a disc. Wear: finally, the thickness of the friction lining was measured both before and after the tests.

Definitions
Sinter: this "sintered metal" technology is the most widely used for OEM pads. Multipurpose, it is relatively insensitive to temperature variations and rain. Comprised of a mixture of powders (copper, bronze, ceramic, nickel), the material is compressed then heated to a high temperature (900°C) to adhere to its substrate. Sport: a softer type of Sinter, that tends to wear much more rapidly. Organic: Kevlar, carbon and ceramic fibers are bound by resins. This technique is older and cheaper to implement, but less efficient at high speeds. These pads are mainly used on scooters.

Technology
Grooves: present on the pad's friction lining, they dissipate heat, evacuate wear dust and provide a good indication of pad wear. Run-in: essential for optimum operation, this process differs according to the pads. Sinter pads adapt rapidly to the disc after braking a few times at moderate speed. For organic pads, however, the process is longer and requires greater care, as the initial surface is rougher. Wear: on each braking operation, the friction and heat released by the friction between lining and disc causes the pad material to wear. This wear is non-linear and increases with the distance covered. It is therefore preferable to anticipate brake pad replacement.

Article Courtesy of Moto Magazine

[ZackDaniels]

I just wrapped up installing some EBC HH grade pads on the V-Max. I did so for the improvement in stopping power over OEM but mostly for the longer life and less brake dust.

Some things to note:

Aggressive pads will last longer, but they are by their very nature harder on your rotors. So you're trading one aspect of maintenance for another.

Regardless of the expected life and condition of your pads/rotors you should still do your due diligence and inspect them every so often. I do so at a minimum as part of my spring opening checklist.

For your average low center of gravity cruiser like a non-standard riding position Shadow such as the VLX, VTX, and ACE lines overly aggressive and direct stopping power may not be the best thing for your ride. Reason being with a cruiser vs a sport or standard position the weight of you and your bike doesn't transfer as readily downward when stopping, and the only thing for all that inertia to do is scoot forward... but it can't scoot forward because the front wheel is being halted by super aggressive pads and/or rotors. Result: The front tire locks a lot easier.

Better pads are not always the best thing to do for better (read: more controlled) stopping power. Try to read some experiences specific to your bike model, and always do some parking lot, supervised, controlled, quick stop tests when doing anything with the brakes so you can be sure it's doing what you expect before you test it on the road.

For example:
It's known the the HH grade pads are not ideal for the V-Max's rear rotor. The recommendation due to the required level of stopping power and how the bike responds to being jammed up is EBC Organic (or comparable vendor/pad). Going with a higher than recommended grade results in the rear locking up easier than it should when full pressure is applied.

I went HH anyway for the lack of dust and maintenance, and am confident enough in my skills as a rider to a: not just slam the rear down even in a panic situation and b: correctly and safely ride out a fishtail should that happen. It's a gamble based on personal confidence and something I would disclose as a concern to anybody who rides my bike in the future.

[gdb069]

The numbers in the table do not make math sense. Take a look at the EBC vs the CL: The CL clearly has better results and the cost is the same so why is the EBC better value? Garbage.

G.

[SuperiorKolours]

Originally Posted by gdb069

The numbers in the table do not make math sense. Take a look at the EBC vs the CL: The CL clearly has better results and the cost is the same so why is the EBC better value? Garbage.

G.

lol I just saw that. Idk, maybe this was EBC propaganda

[ZackDaniels]

Could be that or it could be the column reflects rounded % or factors from data and criteria not fully represented by the other columns.

Most of the sport bike guys I chat with are of the opinion EBC was first on the scene and had the best products for a long time, but these days they're constantly playing catch-up with their competitors and are rarely the best product out there. If that's not the majority consensus then it's a very vocal minority.

What factored more than general review for me was the wealth of experience and reviews on EBC's pads on the bike model I was looking to throw them on. I found little to no such reviews with competitor pads in my bike's case. So I went with EBC anyway.

[ZackDaniels]

{double posted due to database error message - admin or mod please delete, thanks!}

[04LowShadow]

I installed EBC Front HH and EBC shoes on the rear. Plus flushed the front system and installed a braided SS/ Teflon front line. I could damn near do a stopy with the bike now. I also adjusted the rear and wow what a difference.

[SuperiorKolours]

Originally Posted by 04LowShadow

I could damn near do a stopy with the bike now.

lol

[-AJ]

EBC makes a great product. they are all we sell at the shop.

[LJ.Speedmaster]

EBC is how i roll, or should i say, how i stop