Valve adjustment order? - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

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Old 12-23-2012, 05:40 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Valve adjustment order?

86 Shadow VT500c. I will do my best to explain. Im a noob doing my first rebuild. I have downloaded manual from here. For description sake laets say your looking at the bike from the right hand/throttle side. When you put the timing mark to FT which valves do you adjust? The front single valve on the front cylinder and then ? I hope my description is making sense. I have been trying to adjust my valves for a few days and cant figure out the order. Everything I try I get loud nasty clicking. I understand I will get some mild clicking. But I know my order just isnt right. Any help is appreciated. You guys and gals have always done me good in the past.

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Old 12-23-2012, 07:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I have a 2009 Shadow and when I adjusted my valves, FT meant the front piston was at TDC (Top Dead Center) and all three valves were closed (you may have to rotate the engine another 360 degrees if it wasn't on the compression stroke where both rocker arms have "slack" in them). RT meant the rear cylinder was at TDC and all the valves were closed and ready to be adjusted.

Not sure if your 86 would be identical to my 2009 but I would think the general concept would be the same. Hope the information helps . . .
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Old 12-23-2012, 08:03 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Am I supposed to put the timing on FT mark until front cylinder exhaust is at top of swing and then turn timing full rotation to FT mark again and adjust the two intake valves at top of swing? And then do same for rear cylinder with RT mark?

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Old 12-23-2012, 08:52 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I'm not familiar with the 500, but on my '07 ss750, like the above '09, once the mark either FT or RT is aligned, the valves in that cylinder should be closed. The valves - intakes and exhaust, should be adjusted before moving on to the next cylinder. The timing marks are 540 degrees apart - that's one and a half rotations of the crankshaft.
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:23 PM   #5 (permalink)
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At the FT mark, all valves (exhaust and intake) will be closed for that cylinder - as long as you are at TDC of the compression stroke. Then move to RT and again, all the valves will be closed. At TDC of the compression stroke, all valves need to be closed so that when the fuel is ignited, it will force the piston down (power stroke) and then when the piston moves up again (exhaust stroke) the exhaust valve(s) will open. As the piston goes down again (intake stroke) the intake valve opens to allow fuel to enter the cylinder and then as the piston moves up again (compression stroke) the valves close and the process repeats itself again.
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Old 12-23-2012, 11:06 PM   #6 (permalink)
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to add to what they all have stated.

remove a rear cylinder spark plug, so the compression from the rear cyl does not interfer with the rotation of the motor.

you should now be able to feel the front cylinder on the compression stroke as you bring it to top dead center.
you should also watch the rockers, as you come up to the FT mark,
there should be no movement of the exhaust rocker if you are on the compression stroke. as you pass the FT mark, there should be no movement from the intake rocker.
as stated you will adjust both intake and exhaust at the same time with out turning the motor, then do the same with the rear cyl.
you want just a little drag on the feeler gauge after the lock nut is tightend down. but you should not have to force the feeler between the valve and rocker, should go in nice and easy.

if you are 360 out of DTC, as you near the FT mark, the exhaust valve will be closing, as you pass the FT mark, the intake will start to open.

hope this helps you in some way.
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Old 12-24-2012, 12:53 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Got it. Thanka for all you guys help. Since I know they are wrong now should I take intake and exhaust bolts/adjusters all the way off so I can watch the movements of the springs to see when they stop moving?

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Old 12-24-2012, 07:41 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jts3008 View Post
Got it. Thanka for all you guys help. Since I know they are wrong now should I take intake and exhaust bolts/adjusters all the way off so I can watch the movements of the springs to see when they stop moving?

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You DO NOT need to take them off, loosen them only as needed after you get it set to, DTC on the Compression stroke.
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Just finished valve adjustment and she sounds 100% better. Plugs were a little black and I have some surging at 5k to 6k so next up is new plugs and a carb cleaning. Have a feeling main jet may be dirty. Have been running berrymans in the gas. It has helped. But now she is rideable. Thanks all.

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Old 12-25-2012, 04:27 PM   #10 (permalink)
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So went for a longer ride today. Has a new issue. It will not easily go past 6k rpm regardless of gear. I can slowly roll the throttle to get up to 7k rpm but will not pass it. She hesitates to the point it feels it could die if I dont back down.

So im looking for ideas. Is there a carb jet that kicks in around 6k that could be clogged? Could the cards need synch? It doesnt feel like it does it in neutral at stand still. Any ideas?

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