|
|||||||
| Register | Home | Forum | Active Topics | Gallery | Garage | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Motorcycle Escrow | Insurance |
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools |
|
|
#1 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond, VA 23226
Posts: 385
|
Ok... I'm not very good with mechanics, but as a hobby started working on some bikes this past year. On three different bikes I have swapped out handlebars and always seem to have the same problem; the throttle tube doesn't turn freely on the new bars. All the bars have been powdercoated black......
Do you use the same throttle tube after you change the bars? Has anyone else experienced this? I bought a bobber earlier the year that already had the bars swapped and it was the same issue so I don't think it is just me. Any help would be appreciated. Please dumb it down for me. (I won't be offended) |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |||
Advertisement | |||
|
|
#2 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
|
I can't see the tube staying open itself unless the powder job has reduced clearance and is causing it to stick.
More often the cause is over stretched throttle cables to meet with the new bars, or grips installed too close to the end which causes them to get hung up on the reservoir housing. The cables, lube, and fluid are the biggest thing. Most often when people toss different bars on there's a few inches of more/less play as a result of the bars. It's important to not have these stretched out as the tension adjustments won't work so much. Here's a 101 on throttle cable adjustments (on a hog, but same idea) http://www.ehow.com/video_2330186_ad...le-cables.html Last edited by ZackDaniels; 01-03-2013 at 01:30 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#3 (permalink) |
|
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 28
|
I saw something in a forum post or on youtube-can't remember-where the powder coat was being scraped off with a utility knife where the throttle tube was to be installed to avoid issues with the throttle. Just a thought...
Just found this in a customer review for handlebars on motorcycle superstore website: "Overall nice bars, I really like being wider and lower on the SV. It's no fault of the manufacturer, but the sv650 tank doesn't allow you to have any pullback without hitting controls. What was a problem during installation was the thick powdercoat on these things! I bought the black bar and had to sand off the paint as my throttle tube wouldn't slide on (or spin). Will try these again after installing some small handlebar clamp risers to see if I can get a better bend." May just be in need of a little sanding or scraping, but don't take my word for it as I have no experience with replacement bars, etc.
__________________
![]() Steve Last edited by steve in nova scotia; 01-03-2013 at 02:08 PM. |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Arizona
Posts: 229
|
As stated, it's likely the powdercoat being too thick. Grind it off and, if you're not going to repaint, use a good lubricant to promote movement and prevent rust. I'd even sand progressively down to a 1500 grit paper to make sure it's not rough. But, first make sure you've got the right tension on the throttle cables first, if your problem is the throttle not snapping back.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#5 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond, VA 23226
Posts: 385
|
So I tried a trick today on my newest project and it works...no idea why. Aftermarket bars, install the controls and the throttle binds up just like my previous projects. Remove the 'push' cable and it works perfectly.
![]() Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: San Diego
Posts: 173
|
I had to shave about 1/8 or more off the bar. Your throttle must be touching the bar causing it to stick and have your own cruise control. Not good. It may take you a few minutes. You may have to remove your handle bar risers/clamps to give you room to remove the grip. Easy fix.
|
|
|
|
|
|
#7 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
|
Quote:
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
#8 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond, VA 23226
Posts: 385
|
It's not cable length or routing. I'm telling you I've had the same issue with other bikes that had completely different bar/riser set ups. The change here still ended with about the same rise/pull back. Off the bars the throttle turns/returns fine. It has something to do with aftermarket bar compared to Honda bar.
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App |
|
|
|
|
|
#9 (permalink) | |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Maryville Tn
Posts: 424
|
Quote:
The angle on those cables looks very extreme to me . I am going to blame cable routing for your issue as well .
__________________
1990 VT1100C
Last edited by hypostang; 01-28-2013 at 07:28 AM. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
#10 (permalink) |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Richmond, VA 23226
Posts: 385
|
Routing is exactly same position as it was stock. Just looked at pic of old bars. You are all ignoring this comment; off the bar even in the same position above the bar it works fine with both cables. On the bar it won't return. It is something to do with putting it on the aftermarket bar. There is no question there. I've heard others with same issue and taking the push cable off was the solution....my question is figuring out why this is the solution. Again, off the bar held in that same exact position the throttle works perfect.
Sent from Motorcycle.com Free App |
|
|
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
|
|