it's a little better and a lot more cost effective if you know what I mean.. they also have a jet calculator to get the jetting alot more dead on...I used them runs great.
If you put a K&N in, dont remove the snorkel unless you have a Stage 3, or do a tuned block off plate (ive posted how to do this multiple times and recently). Any Stage 3 from a 750 (A.C.E. Aero etc) will work, it doesnt have to be for a Spirit.
Personally, i would stay Stage 1, skip the K&N and remove the baffles. Pop out the snorkel and make a tuned plate for it.
At 320# i could almost keep up with my friends 07 Screaming Eagle and 'this ^^' setup, save that my slip-ons were wide open. Also dont be afraid to rev the crap out of it, the 750 makes way more power on the top end than youd think
yes and no. The A/F screw is D shaped. What I did was take a spent 22 shell and dimple one side to take it out. Then I took my dremel with a cut off blade and cut a slot in it so I could use a regular screw driver. After looking I see they only want 4 bucks for it so why not.
yes and no. The A/F screw is D shaped. What I did was take a spent 22 shell and dimple one side to take it out. Then I took my dremel with a cut off blade and cut a slot in it so I could use a regular screw driver. After looking I see they only want 4 bucks for it so why not.
With the setup you describe, according to the carbjet website, you should be good with a Stage 2 kit. If you were to go to a custom air intake, like I'm installing, which lets in a LOT more air, THEN you would need a Stage 3. The website even tells you that when you're using a K&N filter, in the stock airbox, you shouldn't need more than Stage 2. That's my opinion.
With a custom block off plate you can use any filter. I dont have any photos, but i used a 4" Spectre filter from AutoZone as my 'intake' for one season till i discovered it rusted.
Regardless of what you do with intake, pipes and jets, you still need to do some 'tuning' to make them all work right. There is no "this setup requires this jet kitting".
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