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Help with rear axle nut...

11K views 29 replies 19 participants last post by  jwinker 
#1 ·
I'm fairly mechanically inclined but not a mechanic & have done little more than basic maintenance on my cars & motorcycles in the past. Having purchased a 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit 750 last winter I'm having a devil of a time removing the rear wheel!

6 months ago I had the local Honda shop replace the tires & they used a locking nut on the rear axle. I'm not familiar with these nuts but have been told that they're "one time use" nuts because you'll destroy the locking ability when you remove them. Well, this puppy is really on there & like a fool I tried loosening it with a crescent wrench when I didn't have a 27mm socket. I did a little rounding of the corners before I quit trying to remove it (I didn't want to deform the nut to the point that a 6 point socket wouldn't fit). I'd put so much force on the wrench by using a massive cheater pipe that I suspect that even a socket & more massive force will only continue to round the nut.

My plan is to get a shallow 27mm, 6 point, socket & force it to the point that something gives but my suspicion is that the nut will just deform even more. If that happens, what are my options? Try cutting the nut off with a Dremel? I don't think I could do that without damaging the threads on the axel.
 
#8 ·
An 18 inch pipe wrench should be big enough....with a 6 foot cheater bar on the end of it. LOL
 
#9 ·
If it installed more than the prescribed torque then take it back to the shops that did your tires, have them remove it, replace it with a new factory OEM nut, allow you to inspect the axle threads for damage due to excessive torque as well as the bearings. If the bearing are bad, have them replace the bearings, all at no cost to you since they over torqued the axles which can cause all the previous problems. Then never go back there again!
 
#10 ·
I borrowed an impact wrench from a friend but need to pick up a 27mm socket. If that doesn't work I have a pipe wrench & cheater pipe. The only reason that I haven't tried that already is that I know that will destroy the nut. But since removing a locking nut renders it useless, maybe I should just jump to that option...

Also, I've looked at Partzilla & a few other parts sellers & haven't seen the original nut for sale. Does anyone know of a supplier? Or the thread spec? And would I be better off just taking the axle to a hardware store & finding a nut there, then using Locktite to lock the nut in place.

Thanks for all of your ideas!
 
#13 ·
Also, I've looked at Partzilla & a few other parts sellers & haven't seen the original nut for sale. Does anyone know of a supplier? Or the thread spec? And would I be better off just taking the axle to a hardware store & finding a nut there, then using Locktite to lock the nut in place.

Thanks for all of your ideas!
It's a 2002 VT750DC right? On the Honda parts fiche it's listed at part # 90305-KZ4-891 and it's listed under 'Rear Brake Panel'. The description is NUT, U (18MM). 90305-KZ4-891 NUT, U (18MM) $9.10
 
#11 ·
I forgot to mention in my original posting that I broke the 27mm wrench from the Honda tool kit trying to loosen the nut. Thank goodness I wasn't on the side of the road trying to remove the wheel! The local Honda shop had already left a bad taste in my mouth before all this so I'm trying to rely on them as little as possible in the future.
 
#12 ·
Can I just add one little tip or two.
Before you go to any drastic measures, purchase a replacement nut to put back on after you destroy the present one.
Also try PB Blaster or similar penetrant to try to lube the nut in question.
Forget the factory tools, they are not up to the task required to remove these nuts, remember the torque on these are quite
high and also over time with the vibration and heat these nuts will try to lock in place.
Regarding the reuse of a 'lock nut' they can be reused many times with no ill effects. But you will need to do as many have already advised, get a 27 mm socket, a breaker bar [Craftsman 1/2 in. type will do], and a 3 foot piece of pipe [or so] and put your foot to work on the end of the pipe pushing down from the back of the bike. I might add that it's a good idea to have some one there to help hold the bike in place when you do this, you don't want it to fall down during the operation.
Just for the sake of the poor bikes trauma put a clean shop rag over the headlight so it can't see what's going on and be afraid.
[That last part was just a joke], but it couldn't hurt.
Just a thought.
 
#16 ·
Learn as I go...

I'm fairly mechanically inclined but not a mechanic & have done little more than basic maintenance on my cars & motorcycles in the past. Having purchased a 2002 Honda Shadow Spirit 750 last winter I'm having a devil of a time removing the rear wheel!

6 months ago I had the local Honda shop replace the tires & they used a locking nut on the rear axle. I'm not familiar with these nuts but have been told that they're "one time use" nuts because you'll destroy the locking ability when you remove them. Well, this puppy is really on there & like a fool I tried loosening it with a crescent wrench when I didn't have a 27mm socket. I did a little rounding of the corners before I quit trying to remove it (I didn't want to deform the nut to the point that a 6 point socket wouldn't fit). I'd put so much force on the wrench by using a massive cheater pipe that I suspect that even a socket & more massive force will only continue to round the nut.

My plan is to get a shallow 27mm, 6 point, socket & force it to the point that something gives but my suspicion is that the nut will just deform even more. If that happens, what are my options? Try cutting the nut off with a Dremel? I don't think I could do that without damaging the threads on the axel.



I do NOT understand why the shop would replace the nut???
I have an 1998 model and have adjusted the chain throughout its life, as well as replaced tires, and other components on the bike...
I have NOT replaced this axel nut as yet????


Yes it is a locking type nut, but...????


I think I`ll check the service manual for instructions on this...


Something is awry here!!!






AND YES!!
I`d be looking at them threads on the axel closely for damage, also!!!
 
#17 ·
Most of the time a shop will replace a nut like that as a way to guarantee the repair. A nylon type lock nut can be re used if you put a little blue lock tight on the threads as insurance, since the nylon will not hold as it originally would. Some of the lock nuts have peen marks where the end of the dome part of the nut is squeezed down a little to grab tight on the shaft or bolt. I have re used these also with some lock tight. Just insurance on a part that is holding your life together as an axle nut does.
 
#19 ·
I never replaced the one that came on the bike, it had 36,XXX miles on it and only came loose once where i didnt loosen it.

But, no where did you say that you had a wrench on the other side of the axle???
 
#20 ·
I've had my rear wheel off a couple of times. Had to buy the correct size six point socket and with a breaker bar and a two foot section of pipe, I was able to loosen easily. Pipe wrenches work by squeeezing the pipe while the teeth on the jaws grab the pipe--not meant for loosening nuts. Not saying it wouldn't work, but with a large enough pipe wrench, you would in effect be compressing the nut. Just my $.02.

I think Les, back in post 12, hit the nail on the head.
 
#21 ·
I've had my rear wheel off a couple of times. Had to buy the correct size six point socket and with a breaker bar and a two foot section of pipe, I was able to loosen easily. Pipe wrenches work by squeeezing the pipe while the teeth on the jaws grab the pipe--not meant for loosening nuts. Not saying it wouldn't work, but with a large enough pipe wrench, you would in effect be compressing the nut. Just my $.02.

I think Les, back in post 12, hit the nail on the head.
The nut has an axle threaded inside of it, and is only going to "compress" the few thousandths difference in the 2 mating parts.
 
#24 ·
10-4 Dog. I tried to break mine loose originally with a large crescent wrench. Probably could have done it with a cheater pipe, but now I have the socket.

I am going to be changing to the Pirelli tires soon and will have my back wheel off again. Getting the dang thing high enough off the ground to get the wheel removed is more of a problem than anything else.
 
#25 ·
add a little heat and it should come right offa butane torch should do the trick just heat the nut up JUST THE NUT applying even heat around the whole surface of the nut works best try to get almost glowing but not quite
good luck
also has previously noted if possible take it back to the original shop has it is most likely over torqed
 
#29 ·
If the nut is the nylon inserted variety a little heat would be fine but as stated be careful with the heat. If torqued properly no Loctite is needed. If a nut comes loose one didn't do this step properly.
 
#30 ·
Hmmm...I just posted on this on another thread....

27mm, huh? I thought it was 31, but I could be wrong...

I used a large 6-point box-end wrench on the nut-side and a 3/4" breaker bar on the bolt-side held against the concrete floor. I was able to break mine loose by lifting on the end wrench while a friend "bounced" on the passenger seat.

If I could do it over, I'd use an impact wrench and a 6-point socket.
 
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