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Vt500 1983 Carb Plunger Stuck

7K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  Orindman 
#1 ·
Hi I've stripped the carb off my bike to fit a larger jets. I have a stuck enricher plunger - the type with a needle on the end. Does anyone know how I can free the plunger. Thanks
 

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#2 ·
Try soaking it in Kano Kroil.

Or PBBlaster.

Let soak overnite, then tap it very gently.... Very gently.
 
#3 ·
I would suggest the same thing, and if you can find the hole on the other end of that enrichment circuit fill it from back side with penetrant also. After it sits try moving it side to side with a very small screwdriver or pick tool.
 
#4 ·
I have a different opinion I say open up the fuel bowls and open up the chrome side bowl, that's the diaphragm piston bowl inspect the diaphragms they will be rubber discs very thin very fragile pull those out along with the diaphragm himself you can clean them very easily once they are out don't use abrasives get yourself some carburetor cleaner spray that through any holes that you see once you have the rubber components removed if you spray it in and nothing comes out then you're not done oh another thing if you're going to do this remove the floats while you do it to mark which one they go in to be at the right side or the left side also remove the little fuel stop float thing as well you'll see what I'm talking about when you get in there basically anything with rubber should be removed before getting in and spraying stuff

There's 3 jets on each side once you get it to where you can spray carburetor cleaner into each of the three jets and it comes out another direction you're a good I would also clean the bore that the diaphragm PISTON rights in I'm
 
#5 ·
Thanks for the replies, I've tried soaking in oil and carb cleaner in any hole I think with get near the plunger. I luck so far. I am thinking of drilling a small hole in it to get oil in a small cavity behind and then putting a screw in the hole to give me something to pull on - I'm hoping the screw can get a good tight grip. Will let you know how it works out. If it works I'm going to need to get new plungers - I remember someone used manual button chokes on either side, will see if I can find the post.
 
#8 ·

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#9 ·
Thanks for the various input, in the end I had to use the drill as the top part of the plunger is weak an when I pulled on it the tabs snapped - it's only brass. When I drilled half way in, the plunger started to turn. I stopped drilling and with some picking and light knocking it came out. I have now replaced with manual choke plungers, tried the Mikuni but the threaded nut was to small, the ones I could get in the uk were slightly different. I did manage to find some keihin plungers and they fitted great, will need to cut some of the plastic knob off. Got them from http://www.racing-planet.co.uk/manu...stage-carburetors-p-25941-1.html#.Vr3c6EXfXCQ Thanks for your help. Picture of the plunger below next to the original cable one.
 

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#11 ·
I did manage to find some keihin plungers and they fitted great, will need to cut some of the plastic knob off. Got them from manual choke for Keihin PWK, Oko, Naraku, Stage 6 carburetors | Scooter Parts | Racing Planet UK | Thanks for your help. Picture of the plunger below next to the original cable one.
I have them too and I had to grind off half the knob to gain clearance for the fuel valvle. Been running it for 2+ years without issue. Since going with Pod filters and deleting the air box I rarely use the choke except really cold days.
 
#10 ·
Glad to hear you got a fix. When you said the plastic nuts on the Mikuni units were too small, do you mean the threads are smaller diameter?
I want to keep that info. in case it is needed in the future. Thanks for the new link also !!!
 
#12 ·
I had the exact same issue with one of the plungers in my carbs...the brass had formed a layer of corrosion that fused it with the carb body. I got lucky and was able to grab the nub just enough to pull it out with pliars. I was able to find a stock type plunger, but I forget where...the new one was zinc coated I think, so corrosion shouldn't be an issue in the future. Glad you got it fixed! '83 is a great year ;).
 
#14 ·
Bike fired up tonight ? Plunger choke worked great and no mod required to the knob. I also fitted a k&n filter and jet kit with 125 and 115 main jets and 40 idle jets and two shims on each needle. Bike sounds great and pulls strong and the jet kit is well worth doing. I set the mixture screw to 2.5 turns out but had hesitation on the first quarter throttle and also back fire on decel. I have turned the mixture to 2.75 turns out to see if this improves things. The jet kit is great, hope the back fire stops.
 
#15 ·
Andy. you think it runs good now,you should try pod filters and carbjets.com jet kit.
The sound on a 500 with that mod and the pipes I made sound like a pissed off Ducatti..hahaha.

Torq and sound are amazing.

I posted a video on here.

Just sayin..lol
 
#16 ·
I have the Keihin plastic choke nuts off and the thread seems to be M12x1. I also have a set of Mikuni choke after market plungers and the brass nut thread measures M10x1. I measured the thread pitch at 1 mm on both and they do match but have now ordered a metric thread gauge since to use. I sure wish the US would just go all metric.
 
#17 ·
Orindman you are so right about the metric system being better. The stupid thing about the US not going to metric is that during the 1970's they had a Metric commission in Canada and were trying to convert the USA over also, but gave it up after about 10 years. I still have a few of the metric conversion slide rules that they were giving away to get people used to the metric system.Probably political pressure or something. Expensive too. But we still buy booze in liters and water bottles in liters and Pharmacy measures in liters, etc. Too bad it didn't happen.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Metric_Commission
 
#18 ·
My experience with removing my stuck choke plungers is as follows. I noted the lack of choke lever motion after letting the bike sit too long with crap fuel we now get. Removed choke lever cable connection and tried the cables and cable junction box for freedom; they were OK. Removed left side plastic carb nut and was unable to pull the choke plunger but spring came out and I could see the plunger. Gently pulled the cable to no avail. Shot in some Kroil and let her sit a day. Pulled again and this time the cable popped out by itself. Tiny little cylinder cable end easily came out of plunger. Plunger seems designed for much larger cable end, 4 mm barrel fits fine but cannot get through the cable elbow used. Bit the bullet and reached in with a small wide tip needle nose pliers and grabbed the plunger with the pliers flats across the cable end hole direction and pulled. Slipped off several times but then on 3rd or 4th try, out the plunger came. Surprised to see a small pin/needle on its tip since many online views don't have one. Very sticky surface in carb bore; cleaned with solvent on Q-tip and ran solvent soaked pipe cleaner in hole. Had to carefully bend the brass plunger cable end connection protrusions back into alignment. Gap between them not much narrower than the cable end diameter and the spring seems to act as the protrusion retainer to hold the gap to seize the cable end. In general I call this a pretty cheesy design Honda. Repeated the same on right side after digging through all the pollution control stuff my VT700C AC has, thanks California. Thought I buy some new ones to be sure and started my search. Many look similar but without actual accurate dimensions cannot be sure. Parts for my bike are sort of rare; not many VT700C AC around I guess. Still have not found exact replacements but have learned a great deal about cables, plungers and Keihin carbs in the search. I have Keihin VD 7BC carbs. Took the cable junction apart to see why it’s so inaccessible; not much there to learn but now ordered new aftermarket cable set. New cables are less cost than most junk yard prices. Bought a pair of similar plungers for a Mikuni and they would work for plunger main body and protrusions but the pin was larger diameter and longer. The pin seems to be key since many seen in online views show very complex shapes and various lengths and must control enricher fuel mixture to carb bore. Story continues later, I am sure, since I am waiting for new cable set to arrive. I have exact dimensions of the plungers for these carbs, may have to make a new set. If I do I will improve the cable attachment design for sure.
 
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