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Deeper than surface rust / oxidation all over - bike parked by ocean for >1 year

5K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  mrabe 
#1 · (Edited)
Just picked up a 1998 Shadow ACE (starts and runs fine, some backfiring on decel) that had been garaged but uncovered in south of San Francisco right by the ocean for at least a year. There's LOTS of rust on the chrome, forks, exhaust ... everywhere. Some of the chrome, like on the wheels, has rust flaking off a bit. Aluminum oxidation on the forks, etc, see the photos. The spokes have a fair amount of rust / oxidation too.

Other than replacing parts, what are your suggestions on how to remove the rust? I'm fine with it not looking great, but I want to keep it from causing structural damage to any parts. Well, it'd also be nice itf it looked better.

I've seen people recommend:
  • Aluminum foil and water (or coke) plus lots of rubbing
  • Turtle wax chrome and metal polish
  • Lemon Pledge
  • Steel wool 0000 (with WD-40 or the below chemicals)
  • Bronze Wool - extra fine
  • Naval Jelly
  • Nver-Dull
  • Marvel Mystery oil and elbow grease
  • Blaster 16-PB Penetrating Catalyst
I started off with steel wool and WD-40 ... it worked on the aluminum oxidation on the forks and some other spots, but not great, some areas had the chrome plating missing or flaked off.

Thanks for any suggestions.
 

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#2 ·
I have used a product called Krud Kutter rust remover and inhibitor. I works very well unless the rust is through the chrome and then nothing can help it. But it does remove surface rust nicely, and helps inhibit more rust forming.

It is phosphoric acid which I think Naval Jelly is also. You can get it at Walmart for about $7.00.


https://www.rustoleum.com/product-c.../the-must-for-rust-rust-remover-and-inhibitor
 
#4 ·
For the aluminum, you would be surprised how well wet sanding with oil can help.
This seems to work well on the aluminum - I WAS surprised as I figured it was not removable oxidation but it worked quite well (though there are a few rough spots even after this at least they're not raised white oxidation now). Less success on the chrome where raised, peeling, or through the surface...
I have used a product called Krud Kutter rust remover and inhibitor. I works very well unless the rust is through the chrome and then nothing can help it.
There are areas where the rust is well through the surface unfortunately. It sounds like those parts will need to be replaced. Alternately, I see POR15 high temp paint in aluminum color as an option to removed rust and prevent more rust, but this requires baking the part at 400 degrees for two hours and prep work (probably soaking in rust removing solvent or their preferred sandblasting).

Any other suggestions? Focused on function of parts rather than looks here (though both would be nice). [\b]
 
#3 ·
Deeper than surface rust / oxidation all over - bike parked by ocean for >1 year

For the aluminum, you would be surprised how well wet sanding with oil can help. I used some emery cloth and oil on some aluminum rims with great results. I used the same procedure on the aluminum forks.
Wheel Alloy wheel Tire Auto part Automotive tire

Tire Automotive tire Alloy wheel Wheel Auto part



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#8 ·
Does the engine turn over?
Any chance it's rusted up inside? Just a suggestion: put a hot battery in it and see if it will crank over.
Starts up and rides fine (some backfiring on deceleration, suspect exhaust has air leak at gasket, it's Vance & Hines Cruzers so they may have left the old gaskets when installed).
A couple of things I would add to the product list:
Evaporust for rusty including painted steel and iron.
IME the best penetrating oil: 1/2 automatic transmission oil and 1/2 acetone. (Lacquer thinner can be substituted for acetone if there is an availability issue).
Interesting re: ATF & acetone, makes sense with ATF detergents, sounds similar to WD40 in a way I guess, also often recommended.
Evaporust would be used if I remove the parts and soak them, which is seeming more and more likely. However, for now I'll also be ordering Naval Jelly

Thanks again for all the suggestions! Please check out the photos and let me know if you have any other ideas.
 
#6 ·
I wish you the best of luck.

Just a suggestion: put a hot battery in it and see if it will crank over.

Before you invest a lot of hours & elbow grease.
 
#7 · (Edited)
A couple of things I would add to the product list.

Evaporust for rusty including painted steel and iron. Do a search for using it on the Internet for various techniques.

IME the best penetrating oil: 1/2 automatic transmission oil and 1/2 acetone. (Lacquer thinner can be substituted for acetone if there is an availability issue).
I've used the above successfully to free seized engines.
Beware of the dangerous fumes.
 
#9 ·
It's gonna take a healthy dose of elbow grease and you have many options. 0000 steel wool will work on aluminum but may harm what's left of the chrome. Turtle wax chrome polish, or Mother's chrome polish with wadding will work fairly well. Most of the rust holes will be a lot smaller than the rust you're seeing because the rust can spread out over top of the chrome. My two cents says to clean up what you can for the steel/chrome parts, and paint it so that it has some protection. Chrome polish basically adds a wax once it dries and is only minimal protection once the chrome layer is compromised.
 
#11 ·
I feel your pain. When I was deployed the army stored my truck (also near ocean). Looked fine, except the underside rusted so fast that my exhaust that was inspected before storage fell off shortly after getting it out. Best of luck friend.
 
#12 ·
Just a quick suggestion. Never full does wonders to get rid of small rust spots, though it means there is already penetration through chrome if you can see the red. But it does make it more appealing to see that tiny hole compared to the big spot. My rust removing agent of choice would be phosphoric acid for quick results and Apple cider vinegar for things you don't mind letting soak. Coca cola trick doesn't work as well as people think. Apple cider vinegar has always done well and literally eats the rust and is widely available and dirt cheap at your local Sally world. I cleaned and treated a gas tank full of rust with it and haven't had issues since.

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#13 · (Edited)
Dremel tool with wire wheels FTW. See the photos for the before and after of the front rim (not done with the spokes yet).

Progress note: I got nearly nowhere with the chemicals. Naval jelly removed some surface rust, a fair amount after a few passes and letting it sit for over 45 minutes, but not nearly enough.

Ended up using a rotary tool (dremel type) with steel and brass wire wheels and cones. Eye protection necessary (wires go flying a lot). Used a steel cone on a drill too. Th

The steel wire wheels scratch the chrome so I only used them on the rims and spokes or the inside of the exhaust pipes which were particular rusted. Also on the frame in places as well as the area surrounding the exhaust connection to the engine (see the photos).

The brass works pretty well on the chrome pieces which are likely getting scratched a bit but the rust was so substantial that the minor scuffing from the brass is not noticeable compared with the rust and pitting. Works great on the spokes, the brake fluid master cylinder on the handlebars (they always get quite corroded).

I stopped short of dipping the entire exhaust in Evapo-rust or similar solutions. Lots of wire wheels and naval jelly still couldn't get it all the rust off the inside of the exhaust though. I'll hit it with rust converter spray paint, try removing that, and then just a high temp silver/aluminum color spray paint more or less to keep them from using again and to get a decent look from over 10 feet away.

Removed the top exhaust pipe (shorter one) as my bike has Vance and Hines Cruzers. It was backfiring on deceleration which I understand can implicate a bad copper gasket so I replace that (it was hard to tell that it was there at all, but scratched it to reveal the copper then took a while getting it out). Replacements are cheap (about $2 each). I'll get the lower pipe another day and work on its rust issues as well.

New hose clamps on the heat shield for the pipe - used Size 20, 13/16" to 1-3/4" hose clamps (the install instructions from V&H only referance #20, but this size was perfect, 2" would've been fine too). The heap shield clamps were the rustiest things on the bike by far.

Painted with POR-15 where corrosion and rust had lifted some of the black frame paint and a couple pinhole sized rust spots on the gas tank. This stuff sticks to you skin! Should've worn gloves, I'd been warned.

On Monday I may replace the chain (also rusted) and sprocket with the 38t and 120 link chain. Ordered these:
JT Sprockets 38t
JT Sprockets 120 link chain

Got a new headlight bulb, Phillips CrystalVision to put in tomorrow.

After that I'll put in a couple ounces of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool and drive it around a bit to clear things out and check if the backfire on decel is still there.

Have a new battery to put in too.

Got a new air filter, but wrong one. Oops.

Removed a dent from the gas tank - it was small but now it's invisible (ding king kit from harbor freight worked fine). Polished the paint for a couple minutes and called it a day. Wife had a Corona waiting for me, perfection.

Thanks for the help everyone, ended up getting 90% of it done with the wire attachments.
 

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#14 · (Edited)
On the after fire you're seeing (backfire is technically when it comes back up through the carbs) might be related to a leak between the carbs and the intake manifold causing an overly lean situation when you let off the throttle and/or engine brake. Check the isolators, aka rubber intake boots for leaks. If you don't want to replace them, you can get a silicon stretch tape from Home Depot or Harbor Freight which is good for high temps and seals against itself on contact.
Looks better - couldn't tell it was the same bike!
 
#15 ·
For what it is worth. When dealing with rust, there are some rust converter products that actually change the physical properties of rust making it inert. The one I'm most familiar with is called Rust Foe, but I couldn't find it online during a quick search. I was able to find a similar product, and have included the link:
Corroseal Rust Converter | Don't remove rust, convert rust!
These rust converters are generally only going to be useful on a bike if you're repainting. Then again, it may not be useful to anyone with regard to their bike, but may be helpful information otherwise.
 
#17 · (Edited)
there are some rust converter products
... generally only going to be useful on a bike if you're repainting.
Not really repainting, though for some rusted areas where the frame was painted black:
1. brushed the rust to only metal,
2. hit with naval jelly for 10 minutes and cleaned off,
3. covered with POR-15 gloss black (paint-on-rust). Matches the frame black paint remarkably well, covers worn, rusted edges but needs a clear coat to keep it's color/testure (as it's UV sensitive).
Then again, it may not be useful to anyone with regard to their bike, but may be helpful information otherwise.
What a perfectly pleasant way to mention that I may be way off base in using the rust converter. Which I appreciate as I'm bound by ignorance to repeat a few obvious questions and consider otherwise clearly flawed plans. Seriously, I can only imagine the Honda Civic mod forums don't treat such novice as civilly! Another reason I've consistently enjoyed this forum. And thanks for the warning, I've abandoned the idea of using it to prime and cover the deeper rust of the exhaust tips. I'll see how they wear and deal with it later (or wait for a cheap exhaust pipe set to show up on craigslist). Maybe if I can find a paint on rust, high temp aluminum or mirror finish spray ... on the other hand, then I could also chrome a BBQ so I expect this is out of the question. If anyone thinks otherwise let's get those things for sale!
Just my $0.02, once paint or chrome starts to bubble or flake, it means rust has penetrated that layer, and in order to get rid of it, you've gotta remove the paint/chrome in that area, remove the rust, and re-seal it. Otherwise, it'll just keep coming back like cancer.
I've used the wire brushes to polish it down to bare metal, but what do you suggest to re-seal it? So far on metal to remain bare looking I've used NevrDull, WD40 and Lemon Pledge (I was surprised to see this one suggested and widely accepted for nearly all parts of a bike). For black frame I've used the POR-15 gloss black (including the bottom rim of the gas tank on one side).
On the after fire you're seeing (backfire is technically when it comes back up through the carbs) might be related to a leak between the carbs and the intake manifold causing an overly lean situation when you let off the throttle and/or engine brake. Check the isolators, aka rubber intake boots for leaks. If you don't want to replace them, you can get a silicon stretch tape from Home Depot or Harbor Freight which is good for high temps and seals against itself on contact.
Excellent idea, I'll check tomorrow morning!
Looks better - couldn't tell it was the same bike!
Thanks for saying, I've been pulling stray brass and steel wires from my hair, hands, and feet for the last 24 hours as a result of all the grinding/wire brushing I've been up to. Used the leaf blower to get it off the floor and bike after (with my respirator on) and was shocked to see the cloud of rust dust blow out the garage door. Once I replace the lightbar (which is non-operational, though the turn signals work). I've already got a new one from eBay on the way. FYI, the guy accepted $30 for it under "make an offer."

Thanks for all the help folks, very excited by this little repair project and what I can do with this bike.
 
#16 ·
Just my $0.02, once paint or chrome starts to bubble or flake, it means rust has penetrated that layer, and in order to get rid of it, you've gotta remove the paint/chrome in that area, remove the rust, and re-seal it. Otherwise, it'll just keep coming back like cancer.
 
#20 ·
Just wondering if you considered blacking it out?

I had bought a rear rim that was stored in what i assume was a wet basement. it was so bad it was more rust then chrome.

I sandblasted it to bare, inspected it for steel quality , and shot it with high gloss black and 5 coats of rim clear. Looks awesome now ( what the bags aren't hiding anyway), considering doing the front too.

The only concern i'd see was the exhaust, but they have made some pretty nice advances in gloss high heat paints. ( I make steel fire tables and use a gloss high heat paint)
 
#24 ·
Update:
The rims were not rusted inside at all (no exposure to the ocean air over the year in storage <1 mile from the Pacific) so lucky there.

At the shop they did the following:
New tires installed - Pirelli MT66 Route Cruiser front (120/90S-17) and back (170/80H-15) with fresh Metzeler tubes and rim strips.
Cleaned carbs, adjusted valves, new jets to match the Vance and Hines exhaust installed by the prior owner.
New oil, brake fluid, coolant (and coolant seals).
New clutch springs
New front and rear sprocket (120t with matching shorter chain)
New spark plugs
Replaced a few non-OEM bolts and screws the prior owner seems to have randomly used.
Adjusted the steering head / bearing

At home I did the following:
Tweaked the rear brake pedal which was out of place from prior owner drop - two crescent wrenches with pipes for leverage got that done. Got a new one in the mail regardless.
Replaced front brake handle switch
Covered sides of front fender in black vinyl wrap

To Do:
* New fuel valve / petcock in the mail to go in at the same time as
* New fuel filter
* Adjust the fuel mixture pilot screw to try to limit/eliminate the backfire on decel. If that doesn't work, then:
* Follow dkruitz's suggestion to address the backfire (still present after replacing the exhaust pipe gaskets), which he "might be related to a leak between the carbs and the intake manifold causing an overly lean situation when you let off the throttle and/or engine brake. Check the isolators, aka rubber intake boots for leaks. If you don't want to replace them, you can get a silicon stretch tape from Home Depot or Harbor Freight which is good for high temps and seals against itself on contact."
* Black vinyl over the sides of the gas tank and rear fender ... temporary solution to eliminate the "Pearl Canyon Copper" for now at least.
* Stainless steel epoxy spray paint over the corroded clear coat and metal of the lower front fork tubes. Maybe over the rims as well as they're beyond recovery and black would leave marks if I need to adjust the spokes later.
* Replace about 10 non-OEM or incorrect or missing screws, bolts, and little rubber pieces that are in the mail from motorcycle-superstore.com
 
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