How to Remove the Rear Wheel of a Honda Sabre - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

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Old 02-17-2007, 05:01 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default How to Remove the Rear Wheel of a Honda Sabre

I need to remove the rear wheel of my 2005 Honda Shadow Sabre. I have never removed a wheel that is shaft driven. Who can point me to a helpful walkthrough or has time and patients to explain it?
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:15 PM   #2 (permalink)
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the best advice I can give you is to get yourself a manual for your bike which will walk you through the whole procedure.
You will want/need one for other procedures like changing oil, coolant, brakejobs etc.
It's money well spent.
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Old 02-17-2007, 07:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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The shaft isn't a problem! the wheel has a spacer on the right side, when you remove the axle the spacer comes out, the wheel can then go to the right and out of the splines, and down and out.
The sabre has disc brakes so you MAY?? have to remove the caliper (but not un-hook the brake lines)

As much of a problem as getting the rear wheel off it is jacking up the bike, it don't have a centerstand. Plus the engine is below the frame, also the frame tubes are not even (one is higher than the other). So figure out how to get the rearend of the bike in the air first, then getting the rear wheel off is a piece of cake!
You will also need some moly paste to re-coat the drive splines. Removing the rear wheel DOES NOT open up the rear drive housing!! the rear hub has splines on it that just slips into the drive housings mating splines.
MarkC.
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Old 02-17-2007, 08:50 PM   #4 (permalink)
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When I had my new rear tire installed I helped the tech do it. We had to remove the caliper bolts and the brake line clamp. DO NOT remove the brake line from the caliper or you will have to bleed it. We had the luxury of a bike lift so this was an easy job.
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Old 02-17-2007, 09:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Default WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

When you have the wheel ready to come off, begin sliding it out of the Final drive very slowly while watching inside the hub. The wheel should come lose from the final drive splines. If you notice the inner hub sticking to the final drive and coming lose from the wheel, stop and insert a screwdriver or such in the wheel and gently push the hub off with the wheel. If it comes out of the wheel instead of out of the final you can't get the wheel out and will have to work the hub back into the wheel. This is especially hard if your by your self. I know I made this sound difficult but it is not at all. Just watch where the inner hub is trying to dislocate from.

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Old 02-17-2007, 09:35 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks a lot guys. This is going to be my project for next weekend. I think I will be able to handle it. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:15 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Default Re: WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by West Tn Dawg
When you have the wheel ready to come off, begin sliding it out of the Final drive very slowly while watching inside the hub. The wheel should come lose from the final drive splines. If you notice the inner hub sticking to the final drive and coming lose from the wheel, stop and insert a screwdriver or such in the wheel and gently push the hub off with the wheel. If it comes out of the wheel instead of out of the final you can't get the wheel out and will have to work the hub back into the wheel. This is especially hard if your by your self. I know I made this sound difficult but it is not at all. Just watch where the inner hub is trying to dislocate from.

Rick
The hub splines are pretty well connected to the wheel and don't come out easily. The splines in the drive housing don't just pull out either, they are the center part of the ring gear that is mounted to the drive unit. If you had an older model and someone hadn't serviced the splines correctly (Rusted Together) then your screwed and down for major repairs. That's the reason for the moly paste on the splines. There isn't anything in the drive unit or the splines that just FALLS apart just by removing the wheel.

I got the general idea that he has had wheels off motorcycles before, just not one that had a driveshaft.
Driveshaft models I feel is easier to remove the wheel than a chain drive model and for a good number of reasons,

No chain to fart around with,

No aligning the rear wheel, it just goes back into the splines, replace the spacer on the right side, insert the axle, tighten the axle nut, tighten the alxe's pinch bolts, install the brake caliper (make sure the brake pads are correct).

There is nothing to adjust!

Now if you have aftermarket exhaust then you may have to remove them, (or one of them) or take the bottom shock bolts out and let the swing arm drop enough to get the axle out and sometimes that don't work. (the factory exhaust don't block the axle.)
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Old 02-18-2007, 10:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Default Re: WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
The hub splines are BOLTED to the wheel, they don't just pull off.
The splines in the drive housing don't just pull out either, they are the center part of the ring gear that is mounted to the drive unit. If you had an older model and someone hadn't serviced the splines correctly (Rusted Together) then your screwed and down for major repairs. That's the reason for the moly paste on the splines. There isn't anything in the drive unit or the splines that just FALLS apart just by removing the wheel.

I got the general idea that he has had wheels off motorcycles before, just not one that had a driveshaft.
Driveshaft models I feel is easier to remove the wheel than a chain drive model and for a good number of reasons,

No chain to fart around with,

No aligning the rear wheel, it just goes back into the splines, replace the spacer on the right side, insert the axle, tighten the axle nut, tighten the alxe's pinch bolts, install the brake caliper (make sure the brake pads are correct).

There is nothing to adjust!

Now if you have aftermarket exhaust then you may have to remove them, (or one of them) or take the bottom shock bolts out and let the swing arm drop enough to get the axle out and sometimes that don't work. (the factory exhaust don't block the axle.)
MarkC

Thanks a lot man. You are very helpful. I'm going to pull my bike into the shop at work a week from today. I'll post about how it went.
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Old 02-18-2007, 11:04 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Default Re: WARNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by vladimir303
Thanks a lot man. You are very helpful. I'm going to pull my bike into the shop at work a week from today. I'll post about how it went.
Let me edit the below,
I don't remember the drive splines NOT being bolted to the wheel, but if they are not then they are pretty well connected. And if it does come out of the hub then it will just go back in. By looking at the manual there isn't and alignment reference for the drive flange and the hub, the manual just says to remove it, then put it back.
I have a VT1100 Spirit, and I have had the rear wheel off a few times, but it was last summer the last time I had it off. I've also owned three Virago's that had driveshafts and anytime the rear wheel got removed I did it!
You can go to bikebandit.com for a parts break down of anything on your bike.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkC
The hub splines are BOLTED to the wheel, they don't just pull off.The splines in the drive housing don't just pull out either, they are the center part of the ring gear that is mounted to the drive unit.
MarkC
you won't have any trouble with the rear wheel if you've taken rear wheels off other motorcycle's.
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Old 02-18-2007, 02:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Default The problem I had.........

was........... I was by my self and after the hub pulled out of the wheel it was very difficult for me to hold the wheel up and re-align the finger like studs back into the wheel. It is not a major problem just hard to do by yourself. The molly grease that Mark speaks of is a mandatory when going back together and the wheel will usually seperate from the splines next time. Also, another heads up I would give is....... After the wheel is removed from the bike, pull the splined hub from the wheel so that it does not fall out later and damage the splines. Again, Sorry for any misunderstanding.

Rick
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