Originally Posted by West Tn Dawg
When you have the wheel ready to come off, begin sliding it out of the Final drive very slowly while watching inside the hub. The wheel should come lose from the final drive splines. If you notice the inner hub sticking to the final drive and coming lose from the wheel, stop and insert a screwdriver or such in the wheel and gently push the hub off with the wheel. If it comes out of the wheel instead of out of the final you can't get the wheel out and will have to work the hub back into the wheel. This is especially hard if your by your self. I know I made this sound difficult but it is not at all. Just watch where the inner hub is trying to dislocate from.
The hub splines are pretty well connected to the wheel and don't come out easily. The splines in the drive housing don't just pull out either, they are the center part of the ring gear that is mounted to the drive unit. If you had an older model and someone hadn't serviced the splines correctly (Rusted Together) then your screwed and down for major repairs. That's the reason for the moly paste on the splines. There isn't anything in the drive unit or the splines that just FALLS apart just by removing the wheel.
I got the general idea that he has had wheels off motorcycles before, just not one that had a driveshaft.
Driveshaft models I feel is easier to remove the wheel than a chain drive model and for a good number of reasons,
No chain to fart around with,
No aligning the rear wheel, it just goes back into the splines, replace the spacer on the right side, insert the axle, tighten the axle nut, tighten the alxe's pinch bolts, install the brake caliper (make sure the brake pads are correct).
There is nothing to adjust!
Now if you have aftermarket exhaust then you may have to remove them, (or one of them) or take the bottom shock bolts out and let the swing arm drop enough to get the axle out and sometimes that don't work. (the factory exhaust don't block the axle.)