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post #1 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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83 VT750 will not start

We are having a issue with a1983 VT750 bike starting, we started a post in the newbie area about this, and we are checking into the battery's condition. The bike is new to us so we are in the processes of giving it a complete check out.
Carbs were overhauled not long ago and a new complete engine piston and cylinder was installed due to crack in the old one.
The clutch handle is broken off half way and the master cylinder needs overhaul, we noticed that the small switch is missing for the clutch master, will this missing switch effect the starting of the bike? Dash light show it in N.
Thanks


1983 Honda VT750 Shadow

Last edited by Raw Hide; 05-16-2017 at 05:31 PM.
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post #2 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 11:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Raw Hide View Post
We are having a issue with a1983 VT750 bike starting, we started a post in the newbie area about this, and we are checking into the battery's condition. The bike is new to us so we are in the processes of giving it a complete check out.
Carbs were overhauled not long ago and a new complete engine piston and cylinder was installed due to crack in the old one.
The clutch handle is broken off half way and the master cylinder needs overhaul, we noticed that the small switch is missing for the clutch master, will this missing switch effect the starting of the bike? Dash light show it in N.
Thanks
That switch should only affect starting in gear, should not cause an issue for starting in neutral.


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post #3 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 12:01 PM
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I agree ! As long as the neutral switch works it should still crank without that lever switch. The neutral switch grounds the coil for the starter solenoid to complete it's circuit.
On these old bikes if the kill switch is off, the power to the coils is cut off, so it won't fire up, but it will still crank the engine with the start switch.

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post #4 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 01:03 PM Thread Starter
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Okay so the switch on the clutch is only to start the bike if you are not in neutral or keeps it from starting if not in N as long as the lever on the master is pulled in?
I believe swifty2014 that we will have to take a look at that problem address on the other post first on the resistance on the neg side of the battery we had. Also take a look at the kill switch to make sure it is not corroded on the inside or broken.
On the neutral dash light can it be possible that it shows N but could be a wire bad or loose giving a false indication?
After we check that battery out we will jump it with an 12v auto battery to see if it will start with a bit more crank power, if it does the battery is at fault and will check into the AGM battery's.
Thanks

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post #5 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 05:47 PM Thread Starter
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Hi guys we checked the kill switch today with a tester and it shows the switch is good.
Pulled the battery and it has two low cells with less than ten hours on the battery.
Drained the carb float bowls to see and smell the fuel and both looked and smelled fine and had plenty of fuel
Hooked up the car battery with the jumpers directly to the bikes battery cables and pulled a spark plug wire (lest side #1) and used a nail to ground and had no spark when cranking.
We found a coil wire was off one of the terminals on the left side coil after moving the fuel tank up out of the way to view.
Tried the spark test again and now have spark, yellow blue.
Reinstalled the plug wire and tried to start but still would not fire up.
Fuel is on, and has good fuel, fuel pump is working, lights are on and working, checked the fuse in the headlight and its good, not sure were the other fuse's are and if they would effect starting. I will download the manual for this today. If anyone has any suggestions I will be more than happy to give them a try. Cheers

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post #6 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-16-2017, 06:05 PM
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As long as it will crank that means the circuit for the neutral switch must be OK. Maybe just a bulb out. If you are getting spark, the coils are being powered by the kill switch circuit. So check the plugs and see if they have gotten flooded. This dual fire set up fires both plugs as in a waste spark system but it is a closed loop with 2 plugs in 1 cylinder. So one fires forward and the other in reverse direction. Weird system but it usually works.

Since each are gaped at .035 " that means the spark has to jump a total of .070 gap. That's a lot. As a wild experiment I was going to ground one plug on each cylinder once when it wasn't starting but flooding, but I got it started so I never tried it.
You might give it try so all the spark energy goes through 1 plug just like on a car. See if it fires up easily. No harm done.
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Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
1983 750 Shadow
From the past=
1951 Cushman scooter
1962 Honda 305 Dream
1965 Honda 305 Dream
1971 Honda 175 scrambler
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post #7 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 08:31 AM
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Okay so the switch on the clutch is only to start the bike if you are not in neutral or keeps it from starting if not in N as long as the lever on the master is pulled in?
Be aware, if the PO for some reason jumped the clutch switch wires your bike could try to start while in gear.

You should be able to find Master Cylinder with lever on ebay.

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post #8 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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Wow that is interesting on the spark set up on this VT750, it is kind of weird. Yes we should pull all the spark plugs and check the condition and gap. Hopefully we will have a battery today time permitting. The PO did remove the three yellow wire connector that most refer to as a problem and they replaced with spade connectors with heat shrink covering. So that was done. I guess we should also check the air-box and filter also.
Did not see any tampering of the original clutch switch wires other than the two hanging from master cylinder due to the switch missing. When we were turning it over with the jumper battery yesterday it sounded more like the starter was spinning and not catching the to crank the engine or engaging. Can the starter be a question for not starting? I saw were a gent posted a video on this site to show what his engine sounded like while turning over, ours kind of sounded like that. I think swifty2014 made a reply telling him to tap on the starter to possibly release the pinon to engage. In time we will fined the reason why it will not start, just need to stay at it by the numbers.
Thanks guys.

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post #9 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-17-2017, 11:30 AM
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The recommendation to tap on the starter is to free up stuck brushes inside when it won't do anything at all. No sound from starter.
If the starter is making a funny noise and not reliably turning the engine that is a different story.
That points to the starter clutch unit on the flywheel that is a one way "sprag" clutch to crank in the forward direction and freewheel when the engine fires up.

With the kill switch OFF try to crank it for 5 to10 seconds to see if it has a constant rhythm of the engine turning.
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Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
1983 750 Shadow
From the past=
1951 Cushman scooter
1962 Honda 305 Dream
1965 Honda 305 Dream
1971 Honda 175 scrambler
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post #10 of 22 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 09:43 AM Thread Starter
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I see so no real need to tap on the starter since it is turning.
We should have a battery today so we can try that with the kill off.
Going to pull all the plugs today to see what they look like. Sorry for the slowness, work gets into the way of this project. Thank you.


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