question about valve adjustment-VLX

[Juscruzn]

I am hoping someone can give me a little advice.
I am in the middle of performing a valve adjustment on my 2000 VLX with 17k miles - trying to save $140. I put the feeler on the front cylinder valves and found that they all appear to be right on spec - .006 for the two intakes and .008 for the exhaust.
I expected to find that the valves would be out of adjustment and would read higher than spec since the valves have had 17k to seat.
If you have checked your valves,
1. Doesn't the gap increase with miles?
2. If the gap is in spec for the valves should I just leave them alone or should I fool around with the adjusters just to make sure the bolts are "free"?
Thanks
Ken

[litnin]

Originally Posted by Juscruzn

I am hoping someone can give me a little advice.
I am in the middle of performing a valve adjustment on my 2000 VLX with 17k miles - trying to save $140. I put the feeler on the front cylinder valves and found that they all appear to be right on spec - .006 for the two intakes and .008 for the exhaust.
I expected to find that the valves would be out of adjustment and would read higher than spec since the valves have had 17k to seat.
If you have checked your valves,
1. Doesn't the gap increase with miles?
2. If the gap is in spec for the valves should I just leave them alone or should I fool around with the adjusters just to make sure the bolts are "free"?
Thanks
Ken

Last time I checked my valves on my VLX was at 32k miles and they
haven't moved, since day one.

Gap does increase with miles, but it's not linear.
It all depends on how hard you work the engine as to how much valve gap changes.

No, if they are in spec, leave them alone.
The adjusting screw does not "move" during engine operation.
That's not what causes valves to get tight or lose.
Valves get tight, usually because over time, slamming in to the seat (closed) wears the valve and or the seat.
This allows the valve spring to pull the valve up higher, which takes up the lash between the rocker arm and the top of the valve stem.
Valves usually get "loose" with age when something is wrong, like
the geometery isn't right or the pad on the rocker arm is wearing.

If your within spec, leave it alone. Chances are, you'll have a LOT more
miles ahead of you before you'll ever need to think about an adjustment.
That doesn't mean to just forget about them and not check them, but
it's unlikely they will need adjusted any time soon.

These engines are not hard on valve train at all.

[Juscruzn]

Thanks Litnin
Your expertise has relieved my concern!

[Drail]

Yes, I want to thank you for all the help you provide on this forum. I wish there was a guy like you on all the other forums I read. It's like having a pro mechanic who lives next door.

[Juscruzn]

Addendum:
I completed the inspection and found that the rear cylinder intake valves were a little tight. I couldn't slip the .006 feeler in. So I loosened them up about a quarter turn - this allowed me to insert the .006 feeler. Now I just hope I put everything back together OK. Hasn't exploded yet!
I found the job much easier than I expected.
Thanks again Litnin.
Ken