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spray paint for customization?

2K views 10 replies 11 participants last post by  Steve-O 
#1 ·
has anyone ever been brave enough to use the auto spray paint they sell at the local autozone or advanced auto parts to paint their ride? i'm half tempted. what are your thoughts/comments? :twisted:
 
#2 ·
I picked up my bike about 2 months back. The previous owner had a fork bag mounted on the front and it was mounted too low where it was rubbing the fender. It had rubbed the paint to the metal in a section about the size of a coke can. I decided to try painting it with a rattle can and see how it turned out. If you take your time, lots of wet sanding it can be done. I'm no painter by any means, but I think it turned out ok.

Here's a link to a picture of it.

http://mysite.verizon.net/jg3188/P1040141.JPG

I found this page quite useful in the "How To's" for the prep, sanding, etc.
http://www.chuckhawks.com/harley_paintin.htm
 
#4 ·
I painted my tank, side covers, & rear fender with a rattle can from autozone. I also used a clear coat from a can. I am very happy with it! Everyone who talks to me about the bike says it looks good. Many ask me to paint thier bikes after I tell tham that I painted it with a spray can.
You just have to take your time. Prep is very important. Most important part is to practice on something else metal or plastic to make sure your distance (can from the part being painted) is good. Meaing that you wont cause running or drip marks in the paint. Take your time and be very patient. Its something to be proud of when your done. The pic of mine is in my signature.

Thanks,
Joe
 
#5 ·
There's spray paint and then there's SPRAY PAINT, if you can find your color in the DupliColor line Great, it's Hi Quality paint you can also go to a auto color paint store and get Hi Quality paint of your color choice in a spray can they custom mix it and put it in a can, it isn't cheap but if do it right the first time you don't have to do it right the second time and follow the above advice about NOT getting in a hurry and do it when the humidity is low, it makes a difference.
 
#6 ·
Prep work is crucial. Wax & grease remover is the key. Get a known good quality spary paint. My bike (being flat black) is spray bombed, but a good touch up gun is alot nicer. Just take your time and don't coat it too heavy when using a rattle can. Multiple light layers is best.
 
#7 ·
I've done bikes with rattle cans in the past and I have to agree with Wenchhead on this one. It's all in the prep work for a good smooth finish that shines. I've used the Duplicolor brand with pretty good results.
One thing I found is that the finish will not hold up to a gas spill, unless you wipe it off right away. I found that the Duplicolor high heat clear coat protects better incase you spill gas on it.
The last job I did, I decided to use farm implement paint that uses a hardner in it. It has a better shine and stands up good to gas spills better

This is a pic of my bobber I made last winter with black implement paint. I used a cheap touch-up gun to apply it and it worked great.

 
#8 ·
I used Eastwoods rattle can paint on my 72 XL250 below. Several coats. Applied decals the covered with Eastwoods clear coat. It turned out very good. :wink:
 
#10 ·
I went to a professional auto paint dealer and picked out a color (metallic black) from a book. They brought me two rattle cans (the kind with the nicer spray tips) about 8 minutes later for $20 each. I asked about clear coat and they handed me a $4 can of clear. It's gorgeous, but IT'S NOT THE SAME AS THE PROFESSIONAL CLEAR.

Again, the base is essentially the same, though a pro would mix different chemistry depending on the temperature and humidity and the rattle cans are just a one-size-fits-all mix. But the clear is not the same. IT DOES NOT HOLD UP TO GAS OR ABRASION. Real clear coat has a hardener mixed into it and goes on much thicker. Pour gas all over it and just wipe it off. If it gets scratched you can buff it out. The cheap clear coat will just come off if you try to buff it, and even a drop of gas will spoil the finish.

I sanded everything with 400 grit, then primed, then lightly sanded again with 400 grit, then painted, then lightly sanded with 800 grit, then clear coated, then sanded lightly with 1500 grit, then clear coated again, this time with the pro clearcoat. GORGEOUS.


- Jon
 
#11 ·
jonkun227 said:
I sanded everything with 400 grit, then primed, then lightly sanded again with 400 grit, then painted, then lightly sanded with 800 grit, then clear coated, then sanded lightly with 1500 grit, then clear coated again, this time with the pro clearcoat. GORGEOUS.

- Jon
Pictures?

You're saying the pro clear coat is not affected by gas spills?
 
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