Hydraulic Clutch Problems

[jonkun227]

So I'm trying to wrap up a rebuild of my 85 Shadow VT700C. Should have been done weeks ago but stupid little problems keep delaying me.

Right now I can't figure out the hydraulic clutch master cylinder. I tried to bleed it but I wasn't getting anything. I moved from the bleed valve to the slave cylinder union bolt and nothing there either. I then disconnected the union bolt at the master cylinder reservoir and it was completely dry.

There's not a drop going from the reservoir to the line. I have no experience or knowledge with these. Can someone PLEASE share their experience and tips or even vague ideas?

Thanks!


- Jon

[Gonzo]

I would start by orderig the rebuild kit for the mastr. It will ave a plunger and push/pull bushings and seals, some c-clips, and a spring most likely. Pretty simple rebuild. Remove the rubber boot, c-clip, pull he guts out, clean up the passages very well, and install new parts as the old ones were assembled.

I haven't rebuilt one on a Shadow but have done other Hondas....Haley clutch master would be an option as well and is all chrome... just fyi
I have one I may be installing on Vicious.

Gonz

Gonz

[jonkun227]

Forgot to mention that I'm dead broke (just got a new job after a period of unemployment) so I'm hoping for more of a homebrewed solution. The kit is about $50. I'd rather buy new master cylinders for each side since these are pitched to match the longhorn bars that I also want to replace. But for now I just want the clutch to work so I can shift to neutral and fire this thing up for the first time in months!

Thanks!


- Jon

[SHADOW 1100T]

Jon, for now take it apart and clean it really good, it's nothing more than a simple displacement pump, take the plunger assy (in one piece) and put it boiling water, this will/maybe relax the rubber cup and give you a good seal again.

[jonkun227]

I'll try that. Thanks for the tip. I've never had the hydraulic assemblies apart so I didn't know what to expect. I'll definitely budget for the rebuild kit before next year's riding season begins, if I don't replace the bars and clutch and brake lever and mirror assemblies all together.


- Jon

[hmc610]

I also have a 85 700 and I just pulled apart the master cylinder tonight. I got it cleaned and it was pumping off the bike but when I put it back on the bike I cant get it to pump any fluid down to the slave cylinder. Does the master cylinder/ and or line need to be primed and if so how?

[landon]

Try hooking up a vacuum gun with a brake bleeder attachment to it to the bleeder valve and sucking the fluid down through the lines,

[JimC in NC]

Are you saying that if you disconnect the line at the slave cylindar, and pump the clutch you don't get any fluid at all? If so, it sounds like you have a clog in the line. You might try disconnecting the line at the MC and at the slave, and use some compressed air to blow out the line. If you do, be sure to protect everything from anything that comes out of the line. Brake fluid is very damaging to your paint. Be aware that inside the MC there are two holes. The larger hole feed fluid out to the line when the clutch lever is squeezed. The smaller hole allows the fluid to return to the MC when the lever is released. Either or both can be clogged and can affect your clutch operation.
JimC in NC

[jonkun227]

I think I figured it out. I cleaned the master cylinders out with Purple Power in July without removing the pistons and seals. The clutch and brake master cylinders are the only parts I didn't ever disassemble when I cleaned the entire bike. It was full of nasty rust and crap. I was amazed they still worked when I saw how they looked inside. Somewhat like the silt at Lake Powell.



No idea who that kid is. Just a google image search result to illustrate the former condition of these clutch and brake lines.

Anyway, more than likely the Purple Power destroyed the seals. Sadly the seals aren't available for sale separately, just as complete piston kits. $50 for each set.

Can anyone point me in the direction of alternative master cylinders and brake/clutch lever assemblies? If I'm going to spend the money I would rather spend it on the final goal than a stopgap. Affordable but decent looking would be ideal. I don't want chrome.

Thanks!


- Jon

[jonkun227]

Sounds like the stealership has aftermarket kits for just $35 for each side. That's a little better, but still rather steep when all I need are two little rubber pieces. Maybe I'll just swipe the ones out of my brother's 84...


- Jon