Front Brake Help

[Maggiethecat]

I've just ordered the service manual, but in the meantime I need to replace my front brakes. Anyone have drawings/diagrams/ advice? Step-by-step would be helpful. This will be my first wrench session on my ride - anything you can offer will be helpful.

Thanks!

[Spirit_1100]

Hey Maggie,

The process is fairly straight forward and you really don't have to take too much apart.

Here is the page from my VT1100 service manual:

http://www.spirit-1100.com/HondaManu...eplacement.pdf

The hardest part of the job is going to be squeezing the brake piston back in so you can get the new pads installed. I have been able to do it with my hands and squeeze the caliper to the outside edge of the rotor. The last time I done the Valkyrie's brakes though, I couldn't get it back in. I used a screwdriver under the outside brake pad. Be VERY careful doing it this way as you can mess up your rotor by scratching it with your screwdriver.

Hope this helps. Feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

Joe

[Ram_jr]

The trick to getting the piston back in is to use a C clamp and the old brake pad, to sqeeze it back in.

Rich

[Cbjr]

Originally Posted by Ram_jr

The trick to getting the piston back in is to use a C clamp and the old brake pad, to sqeeze it back in.

Rich

+1

If you are going to wrench-go buy the tools - a small set of C-Clamps can be a godsend for many wrenching projects.

A couple slices of wood to keep from marring metal surfaces is nice to have kicking around too when using the c-clamps.

Don't let your greasy, oily fingers touch the rotor or the pads - (clean fingers are ok, so stop and wash your hands if you get them fouled)

Spray Brake Cleaner is your friend- give a rag a squirt and wipe the rotor down before applying any pressure to the brake pads, just to make sure the rotor is grease/oil free on both sides.

[ICON]

And pump the brake lever a couple times before riding or trying to move the bike. Nothing worse than needing brakes and there aren't any. Good time to flush the fluid if it hasn't been done in a while.

[Maggiethecat]

Thanks for all the info - looks like I need to take her to the shop. The rotor has some scoring on it and I need to determine if it needs to be, or can be turned. No sense in putting new pads on.

Like a facelift for a terminal patient....

[Spirit_1100]

Maggie,

How deep is the scoring on your rotor? The rotor will get small grooves in it but as long as they aren't too deep, you will be fine with just replacing the pads. Unless you have been really riding the front brakes or running them metal to metal (pads SO thin you are scraping), you probably don't need a new rotor. I have just under $50k miles on my Valkyrie and am still running my stock rotors. You will need to seat the pads well before you really need to use the brakes. I ran around the subdivision for a few minutes with the brakes on to seat them.

Personally, I wouldn't turn a motorcycle rotor. They are too thin already. Be ready for a bit of sticker shock though...a new rotor from the dealer will run you about $250-275 just for the rotor. The cheapest I found it online is for $210 (plus shipping and handling) from ServiceHonda.com.

There are a couple of other sources for them. EBC makes them but make sure you run their pads with their rotors. Apparently it makes a huge difference with performance.

If you do need to change out the rotor, there really isn't a reason to take it to the dealer. The hardest part is getting the front wheel off the ground. Once you do that, it will literally take you 1hr to remove the wheel, remove the old rotor (5 or 6 allen head bolts), install the new rotor, put wheel back on.

Hope this information helps.

Joe

[Maggiethecat]

It helps immensely!

I'll need professional help with the rotor - this is beyond my skill set.

Tomorrow she goes to the shop.


You've given me plenty of information be an informed customer - and I appreciate that!