'99 ACE 1100 risers fit '03 ACE 750?

[umbee]

Will the risers from a 1999 ACE 1100 fit on a 2003 ACE 750?

Thanks in advance.

[umbee]

Me again...

I checked the schematics on Bike Bandit and it looks like they might fit.

I just want to know if someone has actually done the swap.

[umbee]

Me again, again...

The risers in question are from an 1100 ACE not an 1100 Spirit.


Sorry for my confusion, I'm trying to get this posted before I run out the door.

[jpr1968]

Any of Honda's risers will just about fit any bike, the problem would be that the bars may hit the tanks on some of them.

[adlowe]

Originally Posted by umbee

Me again, again...

The risers in question are fromn 1100 ACE not an 1100 Spirit.


Sorry for my confusion, I'm trying to get this posted before I run out the door.

Then yes, they will fit. I'm about to put 750 Spirit risers onto my bike -- and some others here have already done the same.

[umbee]

I got the risers and like I read in another post the 1100 risers are flat on the bottom.

The 750 risers have a flange that extends about 1/4 inch below the base of the riser. It's a smaller diameter than the riser and fits into a doughnut shaped washer. In the center of that flange is the stud that sticks all the way through.

The doughnut shaped washer fills the cavity where the riser sits. The flange sits in the inside of the washer.

Here's my question:

Should I use the doughnut shaped washer from the 750 risers, even though there is a gap between the stud and the washer (where the flange would normally fit) and just torque the new risers down?

Or should I try and find a washer to fill the void?

[adlowe]

Originally Posted by umbee

The 750 risers have a flange that extends about 1/4 inch below the base of the riser. It's a smaller diameter than the riser and fits into a doughnut shaped washer. In the center of that flange is the stud that sticks all the way through.

First I've heard of it. I went out and looked at one of mine (still wrapped from shipping; I won't be getting to the changeover until the second half of next month.) and see exactly what you mean. I'm not taking off my stock risers yet so I'll take your word for it that they don't have that flange.

Looking at the microfiche images at ronayers.com, the 750 riser does NOT get attached with a washer over the flange; it gets a washer and nut on the bottom but that is all -- and that is the same as the 1100.

Back in this thread, Shadow1 reported that he just swapped the risers -- no mention of a flange or washer.


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On a related matter, the speedometer cable: Since my speedometer cable is already "tighter" than normal from my Cobra speedometer mount, I've been a bit concerned that I'll run into troubles and have my bike offline waiting for a new, longer cable. (Part of the reason for delaying my changeover.) In my effort to get ahead of the issue, I have identified a solution (should one be required) by contacting the folks at motionpro.com. They've reported that the 02-0111 cable (replacement for the 1100 Spirit) is 3.66" longer than the 02-0362 (replacement for the 1100 ACE) but otherwise the same.

[umbee]

I think what I need to do is use the rubber bushings that came with the original risers and fill the void where the 750 riser flange would normally sit.

I'm thinking either use metal washers or nylon spacers. Just something to keep the rubber bushings from deforming when I torque the nuts on the bottoms.

Regarding the speedometer...mine is tank mounted so I don't think I need to worry about it but I haven't gotten that far yet.

I did notice my clutch cable looked a little to taught but it's underneath the upper mounting point for my windscreen. It looks like if I put it on top of that hardware (and leave it routed in front of the tree) I'll have enough slack. I'll know more this evening.

[adlowe]

Originally Posted by umbee

I think what I need to do is use the rubber bushings that came with the original risers and fill the void where the 750 riser flange would normally sit.

I'm thinking either use metal washers or nylon spacers. Just something to keep the rubber bushings from deforming when I torque the nuts on the bottoms.

Regarding the speedometer...mine is tank mounted so I don't think I need to worry about it but I haven't gotten that far yet.

I did notice my clutch cable looked a little to taught but it's underneath the upper mounting point for my windscreen. It looks like if I put it on top of that hardware (and leave it routed in front of the tree) I'll have enough slack. I'll know more this evening.

Until I get mine apart, I don't think I'll really know what you're talking about. But I have to remember that you're going the opposite way -- so you'll have a space that should be filled by the flange on the 750 riser that is left unfilled by the 1100 riser. I'd try to fill that with something metal; I've got several washers that are about 1/4 inch thick -- something like that (or even a stack of washers) might do the trick. I'd go plastic (including nylon) or rubber as a last resort. But, again, I'm not really sure what you're dealing with because I'm just looking at the fiche images.

Re-routing the clutch cable should do the trick for you; everyone (I think) who's mentioned the issue when changing risers reported needing to change the routing. If that doesn't work, you can check with the folks at motionpro.com about cable lengths; I searched for the part numbers and asked about the difference between the two and got a very direct answer back in something like 30 hours.

You're right, you won't have to worry about your speedometer cable. I'm not even sure your bike has a cable. But I threw the comment into this thread for the benefit of anyone who might be lurking.

Please post results here; I'll be watching.

[umbee]

Sorry it took me so long to get back with results.

I did get the 1100 ACE risers to 'fit' on my 750 ACE. It took a while to find washers too fill the void between the rubber bushings and the stud on the bottom of the riser. I also had to substitute for the thick fender washer at the bottom of the stud where the bolt goes on. I used a thinner washer and drilled for the stud to pass through. I needed a thinner washer on the bottom to get more of the thread through the bolt. I also added some blue locktight.

It worked out well. I did have to monkey with some of my cables to get some slack in them but I did not have to re-route entirely. The worst was the clutch cable. I took it out of the lowest cable guide (just above where it starts to curve up towards the handlebars) and used a couple zipties to gain another 3/4".

I like the position it puts my arms and hands in -- more comfortable than the stock. 230 mile ride yesterday and the bars and risers worked out great!

Someone did mention trouble seeing the turn signal indicator and they were right. The handlebars now block a clear view of it. I may swap the high beam and turn signal indicators if it gets to be a bigger deal.