Tire Pressure 05 Shadow Aero 750 - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

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Old 07-22-2009, 10:55 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Tire Pressure 05 Shadow Aero 750

Hey guys, I purchased a used 05 Shadow Aero 750 with out an owners manual. I am in the process of ordering one, but was wondering if someone with an owners manual with the same style bike may be able to help me out with recommended tire pressure. It is listed on the bike as 29psi (front) and 36psi (rear). I'm looking for any recommendations for rider weight, loads, passenger weight. I weigh about 240. My potential passenger weighs 150. Thanks for your help.
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Old 07-22-2009, 11:07 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Default Re: Tire Pressure 05 Shadow Aero 750

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Originally Posted by ammocan78
It is listed on the bike as 29psi (front) and 36psi (rear). I'm looking for any recommendations for rider weight, loads, passenger weight. I weigh about 240. My potential passenger weighs 150. Thanks for your help.
Look carefully at that sticker. It should have two listings; one for a "normal" single rider and another for "max. load". I'd think you would want to use the "max. load" settings, maybe all the time.
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Old 07-22-2009, 12:57 PM   #3 (permalink)
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It's also tire dependent. Different tires will take different pressures. The new rear tire I have takes 46 lbs... Way more than the previous tire's 39. At my old setting, it felt mushy so I had to up it. I don't know a good motorcycle type 'chalk test' like I do for car tires to figure out the perfect pressure for a given tire and vehicle. I wish I did.
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Old 07-22-2009, 02:03 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGCal
It's also tire dependent. Different tires will take different pressures. The new rear tire I have takes 46 lbs...
And just exactly HOW do you know that 46 is "right" ??

Most tire makers do NOT publish pressure recommendations for their tires when mounted on various different vehicles.
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Old 07-22-2009, 02:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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They do publish the maximum cold pressure the tire can maintain on the side of the tire. It can very greatly from tire to tire. One tire can be 35lbs, one can be almost 50lbs... Same size and intention. The simple fact there is that if your last tire was a heavier one that liked more pressure, you could blow-out a tire that works properly on lower pressure if it's above it's limit. On the flipside as which was my case, if the tire is setup for higher pressures, you might notice the nice old mid 30's you ran and loved on the old ones feel like mush now which leads to the 'slipping' feeling from having an under-aired tire as well as aggressive tire wear problems.

In a car, I have the perfect solution for any vehicle. It's a chalk test. You find a good flat parking long with at least say 300 yards of strait, flat area. Drive first for about 15 minutes to warm up the tires so they are at operating pressure. Chalk all four tires (pressure needs can be different on each corner depending on the vehicle) with a 6" wide strip all the way across the tread and slightly up the sidewall. Drive slowly (10MPH or less) as perfectly strait as you can for a hundred feet or so. Stop and check the pattern. If it's wearing the chalk off the outside first, it's underinflated, in the middle or not quite to the outside, overinflated. Smooth and even all the way across, perfect. Now wait for them to cool off (next morning) and check you're pressures and you have your cold-pressure settings for those tires and that vehicle.

However, I have no trick for bikes that is so simple. I start a bit low where it's mushy, add a pound or two until it feels solid. Then add 150lbs to the back and repeat it. It's long and annoying but it's the closest thing I can find.

Even these tricks aren't perfect. Humidity, temperature, altitude, etc. all play a factor so... Unless you do them every morning in every spot, they will never be perfect. But still, they are going to be tons better than joe-blow who doesn't even pay attention to his pressures. You'll get even tire wear, more tire life, etc. If you want to go for higher MPG, you can increase pressures a bit, but you lose performance, stopping distance (Safety), and tire wear so the cost is a wash anyhow...

Those are the only 'tricks' I know but they work pretty good. The car one takes all of 15 minutes with a portable electric pump or CO2 Tank (popular with off-roading rigs). Bike one takes an hour or so though but I don't have a faster way to do it. If you don't have a portable tank, you can run them high to get started and slowly remove air to get them perfect or in the case of the bike, run them close to max tire capable pressure and remove a pound at a time until they just start to feel mushy, add a few lbs back. If you don't know how to feel the early signs of the mushy though, don't do that method.

Anyone have a better way? I'm all for finding better solutions.
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Old 07-24-2009, 12:39 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Thanks guys!!!!!
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Old 07-24-2009, 11:52 PM   #7 (permalink)
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1100 Spirit Honda manual said 41 psi with weight over 200 lbs. with no regards to brand of tire though stock Dunlops say maxium 41 psi cold.
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Old 07-25-2009, 03:25 AM   #8 (permalink)
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On the sidewall of the tire, any tire is the MFG's recommended tire pressures along with the date of mfg and load rating as mandated by the DOT.

There a old rule of thumb, if you drive it at HighWay speeds for 10 min and the pressure goes up 10 lbs your in the ball park for a correct setting for that tire and load. Less pressure in that time period means there's too much, more pressure means there's too little, more contact area on the road = more heat.
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Old 07-25-2009, 10:56 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SHADOW 1100T
On the sidewall of the tire, any tire is the MFG's recommended tire pressures along with the date of mfg and load rating as mandated by the DOT.

There a old rule of thumb, if you drive it at HighWay speeds for 10 min and the pressure goes up 10 lbs your in the ball park for a correct setting for that tire and load.
For crying out loud. Where DO you get this stuff, Ted ???

What is stamped on the side of the tire is the MAXIMUM safe tire pressure for that tire, regardless of the application. That seldom is the recommended pressure for normal use. It likely would be the recommended pressure (or very near it) only if the bike is loaded to it's maximum capacity.

In 40+ years of driving, I have NEVER seen a tire pressure increase by 10 pounds just with "normal" driving. NEVER. Maybe my experience is missing something but I've never seen that number published either. Most sources say 4-6 pounds is "normal".

I think quoting a 10 pound increase as "normal" is way off base.
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