electrical quest.

[jasmine42]

how is the best way to wire up your back lights to keep them on continuous and still have the turn signals work. I read it in here some where that you just find a hot wire for source and connect it to the lights so there hot and use a double filiment bulb so the turn signals work. Is this right? thanks jim btw: my bike is a 1985 vt700c

[Easy Rider 2]

Originally Posted by jasmine42

you just find a hot wire for source and connect it to the lights so there hot and use a double filiment bulb so the turn signals work. Is this right? thanks jim btw: my bike is a 1985 vt700c

Yes BUT.....
You also have to change the sockets to accomodate the dual filament bulbs. It won't work otherwise.

[shadow83]

There is also a second way to do it Kuryakyn has a module (called a Run Turn Brake Controller) that installs under the seat (or at least in my case on the 94 Vt1100) that makes the modification using the original light sockets. It's a easy to medium level modification depending on your experience.

See here for more info.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/index.cfm/go...ID/39/IMID/732

I use this conversion and am very happy with it. It definitely adds more light to the back.

It also has an optional flashing function for the brake lights when you apply the brake. I wasn't too crazy about and do not use it.

Another very important thing to keep in mind is you need to replace the amber covers with either red ones or clear ones and use red bulbs.



Cheers

[jasmine42]

thanks for the info. I am curious to know why you have to change the lens color to red. also can i just use this run turn sysytem with my existing lights? thanks jim

[cowpill]

No Amber continuously in the rear is allowed per federal law, some grey hair might mistake the rear for the front

[litnin]

Yes, all you have to do is go to the auto parts store and buy a replacement
dual contact socket (1157 type or equivalent).
It takes a little work and some hot glue to fit the socket in,
but it is a fairly easy process and a whole lot cheaper than buying
a module to do it.

Also, the red lenses are required in most states.
It is not a federal law that you can't have amber in the back.
However, most all states have a requirement of rear running lights be red.
Not all states have this law, so I would check the official motor vehicle code
for your state to find out if your state does or not.

[tubes_rock]

I'd go with a bonding agent that doesn't react so much with heat as hot glue. All I can picture is sitting in traffic on a hot day with the blinker on at a stop light and having the bulb sag out.

Try 2-ton epoxy (the 2 hour stuff, not the 5 minute stuff) or some JB Weld. both are electrical insulators, and both will take a couple hundred degrees before they show signs of stress.

--Justin

[Eldorado]

Here is another set up, I have this one and it works good, didn't not change any lenses (although some have), it's a little tricky on the wiring but can be done.
http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/de...onversion_Kit_

[liv4fishin]

Go with the kury set up. Saved my life yesterday am along with the halogen marker lights I changed to. My 2 cents. See here.
http://www.hondashadow.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=83852

[litnin]

Originally Posted by tubes_rock

I'd go with a bonding agent that doesn't react so much with heat as hot glue. All I can picture is sitting in traffic on a hot day with the blinker on at a stop light and having the bulb sag out.

If you get it hot enough to melt the glue by sitting in traffic on a hot day,
you're gonna need more than epoxy too.
Low temp hot glue melts at about 250*F and high temp ones, around 380*F.

Mines been this way since '97 and it hasn't had any sagging problems.

A good quality hot glue will hold up fine for the purpose.