How much do valve clearnaces usally have to be adjusted? - Page 2 - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum

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Old 09-29-2009, 12:14 PM   #11 (permalink)
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An old problem, and one that I have fallen to, is not adjusting them at TDC on the compression stroke. Rather they were adjusted TDC on the exhaust stroke. Believe me, it matters.

Watch your valves. When the valve(s) on the carb side starts closing, you are ending the intake cycle and starting the compression cycle. Rotate the crank another 60* or so, then look for the lining up marks. You should still have several degrees to go, but you shouldnt have to wonder about them passing, as you would if you waited until 90* before looking.

ANOTHER problem, is not properly checking over your work. I have also experienced this one. As you know, you have to hold the tappet adjusting screw while tightening the lock nut. Sometimes tightening the lock nut will throw off the adjustment. Check the clearance before you tighten the lock nut, after tightening the lock nut, and then rotate the crank again to TDC on the compression stroke and check again.

As you're finding, the first time is the toughest. However, once you get it figured out, adjusting valves isnt too difficult. Good luck to you.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default Re: Guess I have to try again

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Originally Posted by etep
Any tips here anyone? (other than take it to the shop)
How old is the oil filter and what brand is it? Did the dealer do the last oil and filter change? I know some car dealers will change the oil, but not the filter.
There is no way to know what the differential pressure is across the filter. It only takes about three pounds of oil pressure to turn off the light. A 12 dollar Honda oil filter would be a cheap experiment.
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Old 09-29-2009, 12:44 PM   #13 (permalink)
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If your not sure the valves are in the closed position(compression stroke) to adjust your valves, put your bike in fourth gear and roll it with your finger over the spark plug hole, when it's trying to blow your finger off, you can adjust them right there.Then do the next cylinder the same way.
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Old 09-29-2009, 02:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Default Hey, maybe that's it!

If I was TDC on the exhaust stroke that would explain the closer than .005" clearance, ( my smallest blade), on the front exhaust valve because the valve would have been open contacting the adjustment screw! No gap! Right?

Can't wait to tear into it again now!

Hey on a bright note. My wife use to freak out at the thought of me working on our cars etc. Ever since I met her she always wanted to take everything to the dealer and pay the big bucks! I was all frustrated this morning with this and she said, "Don't worry, you will figure it out, you always do." Hey! That was cool! Only took 3 years of dating and eleven years of marriage including keeping my son's and daughter's 1995 model cars (yes, two) running for 9 and 7 years. Guess it's still just getting better huh? LOL

My kid's cars in the garage. Ordained by fire! This was a few years ago and they are still driving them today. Knock on wood!
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Old 09-29-2009, 09:02 PM   #15 (permalink)
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My cb750 is every 5000 miles and has 16 valve shims.......... Twins are so easy!
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Old 09-30-2009, 06:23 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Default It works!

OK, It was my first time so it was suppose to be special. Right? LOL

Thanks to all that pointed out the possibility that I was not TDC after the compression stroke.RIGHT ON THE MONEY THERE!.Took my time and redid everything this morning. I had set the front cylinder with the piston at TDC on the exhaust stroke. Bad thing to do!

Its running and sounding great now. All the bad noises are gone too including spark knock and what ever that rattling sound was.

You guys are the greatest. The fact you saved me about $250 on this valve adjustment and maybe even more every 8K for the rest of my bike's life probably has something to do with that opinion!

Ride safe ride often!
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Old 10-04-2009, 08:18 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Now, celebrate with a cold drink of your choice. You've certainly earned it.
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