Cleaning up Engine - Page 3 - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 04:39 PM
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Location: Foothills of Appalachian Mountains, North Carolina
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Another new member saying thanks:)

I've been looking the website over for the last ten days and have picked up lots of info. I bought my Spirit last Friday, and it has not been cranked in 4 years. Got a Clymer manual in on Monday, order a front tire today. The bike only has 2220 miles on it.

I'm going to pull the carbs an soak'em. I liked the manometer wright up, it my be useful. Figured I'd pull the plugs and shoot a mist of Marvels Mystry oil in, put her in second and roll her through a few cycles before even thinking about firing her up.

She still has the break in oil in her. I'll change those out also before firing. I'll try a trickly charge on the battery, but a new one is not out of the question.

This will be my first foot forward bike. I've had 2 Triumph T150V 750 Tridents and still have a sweet 1973 T140V Triumph Bonneville. I have it set up more like a Cafe' racer, feet behind and right hand shifter.

I was looking for something to ride back and forth to work, 75 miles round trip, mostly Interstate. From this sight it sounds like thats what this bike does best.

Ride: 1997 1100 Shadow Spirit

In Process: 1973 Triumph Bonneville T140V
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-04-2011, 08:30 PM
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if the its all aluminum and not just coated, ammonia will work! itll break down any corrosion and then it can be sanded with an extremely fine none abrasive pad ( like a scotch pad type deal) to get that corrosion off. at this point itll easily come off! at that point you can take a " mothers" polish brush and polish the aluminum back to a polish! I have used this method before on aluminum and it breaks down the corrison very well!! no guarantees but worth a shot if you dont mind sparing the effort!

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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-22-2011, 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by famerbeen View Post
But there are many other malware brats and they constantly reprogram to get around the protection the anti-malware people like McAfee create, and this particular one might have been one of those newer ones. These malware packages do their damnest to block access to anti-malware websites and your use of the CD/DVD drive or the USB ports.

2007 Spirit 1100 / Man Is Like A Tea Bag, He Only Knows His True Strength When He's In Hot Water
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 06:57 PM
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The best thing to keep it shiny and get to the pits is to use a small Dremel and polishing the end of high grade, you may need a few but that is because I use my crankcase, because it is stripped out.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 09:28 AM
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In addition to my fear of clear coats yellowing due to sunlight over time...

I recall hearing that paint adhesion to polished surfaces is poor - is this true?

1983 Honda Shadow VT750C (currently still in pieces in my garage ) - for cruisin'
2006 Suzuki SV1000S - for the twisties
... that's not a contrast at all - is it?
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-24-2011, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Homeskillet View Post
In addition to my fear of clear coats yellowing due to sunlight over time...

I recall hearing that paint adhesion to polished surfaces is poor - is this true?
Depends on the quality of the material used to coat polished surfaces. I used this place to polish my front rim to a mirror shine, and the FAQ provides a little info regarding your question:

Automated Wheel - FAQ

Please note that this applies to their wheel-coating process, but the same would hold true for engines, should you go that route. A company is only as good as their customer testimonials or repeat business. Reputable company = repeat business = happy customers. There are quite a few companies nationwide that do engine polishing and coating (can get quite expensive) and/or chroming. Do a Goggle search and you will see what I mean.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 09-01-2011, 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by txironhead View Post
If you decided to go for the blackout look, or if you want a little more detail, you can sand the cylinder fins lightly with the 600 grit until the bare metal shows through. I like starting with the 600 and going finer until I hit 1500 or 2000 grit, but it's up to you.
Are you supposed to follow up with a clear coat after you sand off the fins? Was there a consensus on which hi temp clear coat is best for engine aluminum?

1984 Honda VT700c Shadow

Help keep me motivated on my rebuild ""
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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jeepinny View Post
WD-40 wiped on with a rag or a few quick passes with a propane torch will also bring back faded black plastic parts

Heat guns are nice for that too. Just redid my toolbox. Here's a video of it being done on car plastics.

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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 02-22-2013, 08:03 PM
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Changing the oil on my 750

Just wanted to know the best oil to use on my 750. Thi is the first time I will be changing it myself. I'm tired of the dealer charging me $75 for a oil change. Yeah thats right... I was charged $75 for a stinking oil change at Redline MotorSports in Myrtle Beach SC.
I bought the bike there and they were really good but money is tight right now and if I can do it myself for a lot less... I'm doing it.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 03-21-2013, 09:01 PM
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just to add another method. Steel wool #00 to rip the clear then follow with#000 and #0000 to polish. using brasso with it will get the oxidation off. this method requires about 40 gallons of elbow grease. the #000 gets a nice shine with a shallow reflection if that's all you want.
and do we have a consensus on which cheap clear paint is best because I'm close to the paint stage for the cases (still need to do the top).

'85 vt700c

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