Originally Posted by tubes_rock
Litnin's method allows you to do this test without disconnecting the stator from the regulator. Since the regulator is also the rectifier, internally, it connects the DC negative portion of the wave coming out of the stator to the bike ground, so you put the black lead from your meter to ground. You then touch the red lead on your meter to each of the three yellow wires. Have your meter set to "DC" since you're testing rectified voltage now.
The downside to this method, is twofold: You should never see more than about 14 volts, since the regulator is still in circuit and will be shunting the power when the voltage climbs too high. The other downside is that this test assumes the rectifier portion of the regulator is working. If that's failed, you will get faulty readings.
If you do the test, like I described, in the order I described,
the regulator has no bearing on what the AC readings will be.
If you have your meter set to AC and you read one yellow leg (red lead)
to ground (black lead) you will get one leg of AC voltage...
At no time will anything but AC be on those three wires,
regulator connector or not.
Testing leg to leg is a resistance check. Not a voltage check.
Resistance check these things is really a waste of time.
All the test for resistance and diode checks are pointless unless you
are going to physically repair it.
It take a LOT longer and is more PIA than to do a simple voltage check on each piece of the equation.