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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 28
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If you dont like to read you can just skip to the last paragraph
Since this is my first post Ill give a little background to myself and how I came to purchase a beat up 1983 honda shadow vt750c. for the past few years iv had the itch to learn about things mechanical. I also had the itch to ride a motorcycle. added to that there is my current part time employment and... well.... a slightly aged shadow I have purchased for $250. which with all things considered I think was a pretty good deal. Especially since the carbs were cleaned right before i bought it Im rebuilding the calipers right now... well I will once my seals come in. Do you guys think i should also replace the brake lines? In my inexperienced eye they look to be in pretty decent shape. Thanks! |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: mo usa
Posts: 152
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in my opinion
When it comes to brakes, new never hurts anything.So, when in doubt, replace it. But then again im also a member of the when all else fails, force it. If it breaks, then it needed replacing anyways.
__________________
07 vlx 600(hers) 98 ace 750(his)
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#3 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,004
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Brake lines are the most overlooked areas on most bikes. Since they look fine on the outside, it's good, right?
These lines weaken and break down over time, allowing them to stretch with brake pressure. While it's not an outright failure of the brakes, it does take away from their effectiveness, and "flaps" that break down from the liner can cause very hard to diagnose problems, even brake lockup. One thing I recommend, and have done this many times in the past, is to order a "universal" aftermarket braided stainless steel line. Earls is the company most use, there are others. Basically, you measure your stock line (or what you'll need if switching to higher or lower handlebars) from the end of one crimp fitting to the other. Then you order the closest length line, which will come with female threaded ends. You also order the new chrome or stainless fittings that are the closest match to the ends of the stock lines. Add some crush washers (may be included, but check) and you're the proud owner of a superior brake line that many times costs less than ordering a stock OEM from the dealership. They don't flex, they're Teflon lined normally, and they just look good. Be sure to inspect your caliper pistons and replace if they're pitted. And when you can't figure out why you can't bleed the brakes, crack open the banjo fitting that bolts to the master cylinder, large air bubbles love to hand out there. Even Mityvacs don't work if you don't eliminate that bubble. Welcome to the wonderful world of Shadows. They're loyal beasts, as long as you treat 'em right. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 6,167
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Replace 'em. Avoid future problems.
Welcome to the board. No pic's, never happened. Keep us up with progress posts also. Glad to have you here. Lots of knowledgeable people and good info. Good luck. Eric
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#5 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Georgia
Posts: 28
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Just the kind of direction I was looking for, thanks for the info. Are there any forum sponsored / affiliated bike supply websites that I should order the lines from? if not any recommendations on where to order from.
Thanks |
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,759
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Quote:
Sure it will cost money, but you will have a completely new system and it will GREATLY reduse the rust in the lines.
__________________
2003 Harley Davidson 1200C Sportster (crashed) 2003 Honda Shadow Sabre 1100 '
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