This is how to avoid stator failure

[verdeva]

It is easy, but not cheap. Just buy and install a ce-602 rectifier regulator. This unit is designed for Harley, but these guys have been using them on Suzuki’s for over 14 months with excellent results.

What’s so special about the ce-602? It is not a shunt design. It is described as a series regulator. As I understand it, our OEM regulator runs the stator at full output and shorts to ground what is not needed. The ce-602 turns off the stator when the spec voltage is reached. Off means zero current flows and the stator cools down. Tests at the Suzuki site show that the typical stator current is halved. This regulator is designed for 45 amps so our 25-30 amp systems have lots of margin.

In addition to prolonging the life of the stator, the ce-602 has excellent regulation, so this should help with battery life. They often get 14.2 volts, even at idle. The forum also reports that the reduced drag from the unloaded stator adds about one horsepower and fuel mileage increased by ~ 2 mpg.

I have one ordered and will post with installation and test info. I found a ce-602 on sale for $168. This had better work!

Dave

[tubes_rock]

You are correct in your description of the Shadow's stator design. A series regulator does exactly what you described too, but often makes a lot of heat in the process. (Which is why they make outs the way they do.) Either that sucker has a HUGE heatsink on it, or they built a tiny switching power supply (inductor buck or similar) into it.

Post details on how you like it, with pictures if possible. I've been designing one of these on my test bench off-and-on for 2 years. Just haven't gotten the time to get it all together. I'm curious how this one works!

--Justin

[still_bluenoser]

Please let us know!! Love it!

[verdeva]

Justin,

There is no easy way to confirm what kind of circuit this is, but I am inclined to think that it is a switcher design. One of the Suzuki forum posts described a call to Cycle Electric and they used the term "switcher". Also, this unit has been installed on about 12 Suzukies and the reports are that it runs cool to the touch.

If this works as advertized, it will pay for itself in gas savings in about 50 k miles!

Dave

[oldbike]

Like Justin said, the Harley regulator is a giant heat sink. If you use one, make sure you mount it where air can get to it. Harley mounts theirs in front of the engine.

[callmeal]

Yes, the Harley regulator gets hot, but not the Cycle Electric regulator.

The 99-03 Dynas had a huge propensity to fry stators. My 02 FXD stopped charging a few months past its one year warrantee. The stator tested good. When I removed the regulator, it had started to melt on the back side. I replaced it with the CE-324. The CE regulator stays as cool as the frame near it.
The CE has been on the bike for seven years now. No problems with the charging system. Still has the original stator.

“CE-200, CE-300 CE-400 and CE-600 Series Rectifying Regulators for use with permanent magnet alternators.
A more efficient approach to rectifying regulators.
To control voltage on Harley-Davidson alternators other rectifier regulators dump current to ground. This causes maximum stator current and temperature at all times. Cycle Electric rectifying regulators block current to control voltage. This reduces stator current resulting in lower temperature and less drag on the motor which means more efficient operation. The largest and most noticeable benefit is a smoother charge to the battery. This means less battery maintenance and longer battery life.”
http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/RECTIFIER.html#CE-600

I remember reading somewhere that the Harley regulator adjusts the voltage 7,000 times per minute, and the CE adjusts the voltage twice that often making for fewer voltage spikes.

One more thing, the CE does not have a ground wire like the Harley regulator. It grounds thru the mounting bolts.

["Captain D"]

Interesting, Very Interesting...

[mpenner]

A lot of people have been using the FH0012 R/R in various bikes for the same reasons.

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-trip...r-upgrade.html

The only problem is that now that people know about this, they are very hard and/or expensive to find on ebay.

[cl65ame]

http://www.metricthunder.com/img/install.pdf

[verdeva]

Well I got it installed, but it was a challenge. This sucker is huge!

Here is a picture of how it compares with an electrosport R/R. Notice the powder coated heat fins.



http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...2/DSCF0021.jpg

It weighs in at about 2 1/2 pounds, so my mounting concept had to be completely revised. Off came the horns to free up two P clamps and here is it hanging from the freeway bar. There are 4 quarter inch threaded holes on the backside.



http://i536.photobucket.com/albums/f...2/DSCF0024.jpg

I think that this is a temporary location because the back side of this R/R is not very appealing. If I had two larger P clamps it could hang from the frame. It would project out like a flag and sit along the lower side of the front cylinder. Heat is a concern, but I think an inch spacing will be work. I'm more concerned with the weight and vibration with only two 1/4" mounts.

Anyway, it is wired in and I had time to take it arround the block and the voltage indicator showed it is working as intended. I don't have a clamp style ampmeter, so I'm going to rely on the other forums tests for power saving. When I was riding, the bike did seem to have more torque, but perhaps that was the "placibo" effect. A longer ride will be needed soon.


Dave

Edit: the pics worked in preview, but I don't see them now...so I added links