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ttexastim

Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 564 Location: Campbell, TX
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Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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| tubes_rock wrote: |
| ttexastim wrote: |
Thanks for that.
I just went and checked those voltages. At idle, I measured VAC between the yellow wires. I got 12.2 VAC when I first started the bike. Then as it warmed up, it fell down to 11.9 or so VAC for all wire combinations. I also noticed that those yellow wires don't take long to heat up. I felt around to see if I could find the source for the heat, and the R.R. is VERY hot as well.
I'm pretty much listening to y'all at this point, because my manuals don't have any other things to check listed. |
Wait, wait, wait.
How can those yellow wires and R/R heat up while you're testing it? The R/R is disconnected...
Unless...did you shove the meter probes into the connector with everything still connected? If so, you're measuring that the R/R is shunting back to the stator. You'll get nowhere in your testing that way. Disconnect the R/R and test the AC voltage between all of the yellow wires with the stator unplugged from the rest of the electrical system. Now you should see the voltages as described.
--Justin |
Justin ... when I check the VAC with it unhooked, I get over 50V while revving. THe measurement Psychosis mentioned was hooked up. With the stator hooked up, measuring on the 3 yellow wires, I was getting just under 11V while revving. _________________ Tim Adams
1990 VT1100C Shadow
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ttexastim

Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 564 Location: Campbell, TX
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Posted: Sat Sep 26, 2009 10:15 pm Post subject: |
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I'm almost to the point where I'm going to try some percussive persuasion with a baseball bat to see if that fixes it.  _________________ Tim Adams
1990 VT1100C Shadow
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tubes_rock

Joined: 29 Jun 2006 Posts: 4268 Location: Claremont, NH
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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 6:51 am Post subject: |
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Put that baseball bat away!
I've never heard of testing a stator with anything connected to it because unless it's isolated from the other components, you still don't know which component is failing and giving you poor results.
If you're testing the stator with is disconnected and getting 50V between all combinations of wires, and if you get no continuity between any of those wires and the bike's grounded frame, and you have between 0.2 and 1.0 ohms resistance between all combinations of yellow wires, then your stator check out. Remember to touch both meter probes together first to get the internal resistance of the meter before you test the resistance of the stator. I had a meter one that measured 0.3 ohms just touching the probes together, so I had to subtract 0.3 from every measurement I took.
It's sounding to me like your problem isn't the stator. Now it's time to check the R/R!
--Justin _________________ 1986 Shadow 700
1986 Honda Trail 110 (Postie Bike) |
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Steven_B

Joined: 23 Feb 2008 Posts: 266 Location: Johannesburg, South Africa
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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Guys
I just got back this afternoon from a 750 mile trip from Johannesburg to White river and all around that area, stayed over at a really nice little hotel called the Karula Hotel in White River, on the way out of Johannesburg about 4 hours into the ride my bike died and had no power to kick the starter and the lights were dim.
I disconnected the headlights by taking out the fuse and managed to push start the beast and we rode on (wife pillion plus 2 V-Stroms and a BMW 1200GS), about another hour later we stopped on a hill for a smoke break and she started! (hill was push start backup)
When I got home I needed to clean and repair so I put the bike on the jack and took the battery out and got to the stator wires which I had previously joined with crimp ferrules, I cut the wires and measured, only one winding alive, started the bike with my test battery and cables and found only one pair would light a 55w lamp (I don't know where you guys get 50V, I got max 17VAC)
I removed the covers and pulled the stator and put it on the bench, after some tests I discovered that the centre of the windings (3 phase star type winding on the Honda stator) was a bad connection, I pulled them out of the old connection and crimped them all together with a small ferrule and insulated them with a piece of the tube I cut off the yellow wires, a fair amount of superglue and powder and put it back, I now have full voltage on the battery ~13.9V all from just above idle to wife shouting too much noise! and the lights are REAL bright
The Shadow (mine 1996 C2) can deliver a maximum current of 25A at 13VDC (the windings on the stator are thick and can surely do that)
I fix things, a stator is a simple wire winding on a core, no rocket science, why replace when you can fix?
Now I just have to weld the exhaust pipe where it broke, pics of that fer sure
BTW the R/R tests perfect so I am sure I have fixed the charging problem that has been around since I got the bike _________________ Amateur Op ZS6XU (30+ yrs)
1996 Shadow 1100 ACE (Mine)
1999 Honda Blackbird CBRXX (MINE!)
2006 Suzuki Boulevard M50 (Hers)
SGT at arms Widows Sons WRC
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maurice1
Joined: 01 Jun 2009 Posts: 686 Location: Jacksonville Fl.
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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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right on right on. great job.
maurice _________________ General Altimax HP 205-65-15
Shadow Sprit 2001 vt1100c
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tubes_rock

Joined: 29 Jun 2006 Posts: 4268 Location: Claremont, NH
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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Steven_B wrote: |
| I fix things, a stator is a simple wire winding on a core, no rocket science, why replace when you can fix? |
If you can wind a spider coil for a radio, you can wind a stator with your eyes closed! The only gotcha with the stator is the epoxy coating. if you don't have it, you risk the vibration wearing through the enamel coating on the wire. Otherwise, it's much different than winding a funky choke!
--Justin _________________ 1986 Shadow 700
1986 Honda Trail 110 (Postie Bike) |
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ttexastim

Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 564 Location: Campbell, TX
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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 7:52 pm Post subject: |
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Justin,
I agree that the stator looks correct. I tested the R/R alone, and all the diode's check out on that too.
I have decided to drive it for a bit, and make sure I still have a problem.
I rode 1 1/2 to Dallas today, and hung out with some friends. Then I rode back home. Put the multimeter to the battery and I had 3.11 V.
I'll keep checking it after I ride and see if I see the voltage dropping. _________________ Tim Adams
1990 VT1100C Shadow
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tubes_rock

Joined: 29 Jun 2006 Posts: 4268 Location: Claremont, NH
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Posted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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| ttexastim wrote: |
| I rode 1 1/2 to Dallas today, and hung out with some friends. Then I rode back home. Put the multimeter to the battery and I had 3.11 V. |
I hope you mean 13.11V!
It sounds like your charging system is working to me!
A hour and a half will kill the battery flat otherwise.
--Justin _________________ 1986 Shadow 700
1986 Honda Trail 110 (Postie Bike) |
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ttexastim

Joined: 13 Nov 2006 Posts: 564 Location: Campbell, TX
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Posted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 12:32 pm Post subject: |
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Yes ... 13.11. LOL. I'll keep an eye on it. THe other idea I had on why my voltage could be slowly going down, is that maybe I have some leakage when the bike is turned off. I'm going to watch my voltages before and after I park it to see.
Thanks for the help y'all. It's great to be able to sound off on this against people who know what they are talking about. I appreciate it! _________________ Tim Adams
1990 VT1100C Shadow
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