84 honda shadow regulator/rectifier - Page 2 - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #11 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 03:02 AM
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With the 3 yellow wires disconnected measure from one yellow to another. Then from that one to the last one. Not to ground but wire to wire. AC voltage readings. Engine running 20-50+ volts AC.


Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
1983 750 Shadow
From the past=
1951 Cushman scooter
1962 Honda 305 Dream
1965 Honda 305 Dream
1971 Honda 175 scrambler
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post #12 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for explaining. Will do it when I wake up and let you know what I find out.

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post #13 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 06:07 PM Thread Starter
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So today I went out to do the stator test and didnt get it done. I charged the battery all the Way up and started the bike. It started right up but then after about 30 seconds the whole bike shut off and now I have no lights or anything. The battery is brand new, just got two days ago. Could I have blown the 30 amp fuse? I don't know why it would have blown all of a sudden. Unless the battery went that dead that quickly? Only other thought I just had at this moment is I broke my negative cable off the battery....I'll keep you updated.
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post #14 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 06:25 PM
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Working correctly, your bike *SHOULD* run with the battery disconnected (a charged battery is, essentially, an open circuit) so sounds like something is very wrong.

What's the condition of the new battery? Can it hold a charge now?

Does the old battery hold ANY charge?

Can you jump the bike (with the old battery) from a car battery, then disconnect the cables?

If you can do the tests, I think you're going to find a bad R/R, but you might find other problems, too.

Also, @swifty2014 , is that a simplified wiring diagram? Eghads! Don't let that other guy know about this talent you have!!!



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Time is time. All you have is "Life Time." GO.
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post #15 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 06:59 PM Thread Starter
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Actually I just did the rr test my manual tells me to do. The spare rr checks out. Its the continuity test you do with the ohmmeter. Highest resistance I got with the test is 4. Something. They're all about the same. When it was charging it overcharged the battery, why I replaced the old one. The old one was steaming from how hot it was. The problem with my bike is that the guy before me cut both connectors off, not just the stator connector. He hardwired the red,green, and black wires along with the three yellow wires. So since it was overcharging I figured it was a Problem with the rr. I put the spare on and now it's not charging at all. Anyway I'm just gonna take the new battery back out and charge it back up while looking at connections. Thanks for all the help so far.
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post #16 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 07:09 PM
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Totally understand, @rghw09 , but for the purpose of troubleshooting I would try to keep using the old (known bad) battery with a car battery jumpered to it for the moment and use the new one once you know what is wrong. We would hate to cook your new battery (if it's not already) while trying to find out what's wrong. When testing with a car battery, they're so much more robust than a powersports battery you won't damage it in 30 seconds before you disconnect the jumper cables.



There's no such thing as "Spare Time" or "Free Time" or "Down Time."
Time is time. All you have is "Life Time." GO.
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post #17 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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Completely understandable. But I turned the old battery in when I got the new one. It was still under warrantee. If I hook up the 12 volt car battery with jumpers will it damage my electrical components while I do any of the tests?
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post #18 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-22-2016, 07:34 PM
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Shoot...well, that's probably the best end for it...

Connecting a car battery by jumper cables will not cause any problems, just mind the jumper cables to make sure they don't touch anything you don't want them touching, etc. If the car battery is in the car, don't start the car. Think of it as nothing more than a really BIG battery compared to your normal battery with really long battery cables that don't fit very well.



There's no such thing as "Spare Time" or "Free Time" or "Down Time."
Time is time. All you have is "Life Time." GO.
-- Henry Rollins
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post #19 of 20 (permalink) Old 07-24-2016, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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So it just got worse, bike started up and top of battery caught fire, I guess the natter has been arcing on the secondary fuel tank, caused a pin hold leak. I saved my electrical thank goodness. So new battery today and I'm not putting it in at all til I figure this charging issue out. And on top of that I have to close that pin hole leak in secondary tank. JB weld should do it since it's so small. Fuel is already drained and everything so, I'll fix this first and finally hope to get this stator test done. I've been pulling my hair out on this bike. Lolz. Appreciate the help so far.
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post #20 of 20 (permalink) Old 08-13-2016, 10:17 PM Thread Starter
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I wired everything back on the bike and it is charging the battery when I increase the Rpms. I think There was a bad connection. Only problem is that it only charges the battery no more than 12.70 volts. Could I still have a bad regulator rectifier. I did check my stator and and all the connections had 22-27 volts when the bike was running. I would of posted sooner but I had to take care of that leak on my tank under the seat and also my starter solenoid decided to go bad on me. Had to get one at the local junkyard. Anyway that's where I'm at so far. Any suggestions to get it back to normal would be great. Thanks

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