Honda Shadow Forums banner
Status
Not open for further replies.

What Do I Check When My Motorcycle Won't Start?

359K views 87 replies 58 participants last post by  ALD3 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I collected all the suggestions from other riders, and my own experiences, and put them into this post. I hope it helps! - Dan


What Do I Check When My Motorcycle Won't Start?

A motorcycle engine needs three things to start: Battery, Fuel, and Ignition. Any one of these three will prevent your bike from starting. We will address each of these, but remember that some of this information may not apply to your specific motorcycle.

While we cannot address every possible reason why it will not start, we can cover the basic things you can check yourself, with just basic hand tools.

In all cases, if you are not comfortable with getting your hands dirty and tearing things apart, then arrange for a reputable mechanic to work on it and save yourself the aggravation.

Many of us have had a brain cramp and overlooked that one really simple thing; and while these might seem obvious before we get into troubleshooting, there are a few simple things you should check before you start taking your motorcycle apart.

• The fuel petcock is on, and there is fuel in the tank​
• The ignition key is in the On or Run position​
• The Kill Switch is in the Run position​
• The Kickstand is up​
• The transmission is in Neutral​

If the bike won’t start, you will have to investigate further.

THE BATTERY

The battery must be fully charged, especially if it is a new one. Most battery manufacturers recommend you slow charge the battery overnight. If you don’t already have one, a trickle charger or Battery Tender is a good investment; as is an inexpensive voltmeter.

With the engine off, the battery should read in the vicinity of 12.5 volts. When the engine is running, it must be rotating at roughly 1,500 rpm or faster before it will begin to charge the battery. With the voltmeter still attached, rev the engine and you should see a reading of approximately 13.5 volts. If it does, then the charging system is operating correctly. When idling, the motorcycle is running off the battery, and if you let it idle too long, it could exhaust the charge in the battery, and the engine may die.

If you press the starter button and the engine turns over but does not start, then the problem is most likely NOT the battery. If you press the starter button, and nothing happens, then the battery may be dead, OR you may have neglected to do one of the basic things, like turn the key on, or put the kickstand up.

FUEL

Make sure you have fresh gas in the tank, not some stuff left over from last year’s riding season. If you are not going to drain the tank for the winter, then make sure you use one of the commercially available stabilization products like Sta-Bil or Sea Foam.

If you have just tried to start the engine for the first time in a while, then the possibility exists that your carburetors may be gummed up from sitting. The appropriate amount of Gumout or Sea Foam may help; but if it doesn’t, you will probably need to remove the carburetors, disassemble them and clean the gunk out of them.

Make sure the fuel petcock is turned to the proper position. You most likely have an On and a Reserve position on the petcock. If the tank is low on fuel, you may need to put the petcock in the Reserve position. If you have cranked the starter, and the engine does not start; check to see that you have not flooded the engine. I good indicator of a flooded engine is if you can smell a strong odor of gas near the carburetors. You can also remove one of the spark plugs and check the electrodes to see if they are wet. If you smell gas, or the spark plug electrodes are wet, you may have flooded the engine. If so, then make sure the choke is Off, let the bike sit for a bit, and try to start it again, this time without giving it any throttle.

If you do not smell gas, and the spark plugs look dry, then you may not be getting any fuel. Your gas tank may be equipped with a fuel line filter, either near the petcock assembly, or somewhere in the fuel line itself. Check them to make sure they are not dirty or clogged; if so, replace them. Your gas tank may also have a vent line that may be plugged or pinched. If it is, the engine will not be able to receive fuel.

Remove the gas filler cap, and if you hear a hissing sound, like air being sucked into the tank, then the vent may be the problem. Try starting the engine again. If it starts, then shut it off right away and resolve the vent problem. There have been reports that clogged vent tubes have caused the gas tank to buckle or collapse due to the vacuum created inside the fuel tank by the blocked vents.

If everything looks OK, and you have a can of starter fluid or a spray can of carburetor cleaner, you can try spraying a small amount into your air intake, then try to start the engine. If it fires up, but then dies right away, then you are probably getting spark to the plugs, but not getting fuel to the carburetors’ and you may have to tear them down and clean them. Do NOT keep spraying stuff into the air intake; you may damage the engine that way!

If you still can’t get the engine to fire, then you may have ignition problems.

IGNITION

There are 2 basic ways to check to see if your spark plugs are firing. You can leave the spark plug installed, and pull the rubber boot from the plug. Stick a screwdriver into the rubber boot, making sure the end is touching the connector inside. Hold the shaft of the screwdriver about 1/8 of an inch away from the engine block and crank the engine. If the ignition is sending juice, you should see sparks jumping the gap between the screwdriver and the engine. This will tell you if the coil is delivering spark to the plugs, but it won’t tell you if the plugs themselves are bad or not.

An alternative method is to pull a plug, check to make sure that the gap is within the manufacturer's recommended specification, and then connect the boot to the plug again. Hold the electrode against the engine, then crank the started and see if you can see a spark jumping the gap of the plug. You probably want to hold the plug wire with rubber-handled pliers, unless you enjoy getting zapped.

If you don’t see a spark, then you may have ignition coil problems or other issues. Find the location of the coil on your bike, it may be under the fuel tank, and make sure all wires are connected correctly.

Using fresh gas, new plugs, choke in the off position, and try starting the engine. If it still won’t start, then you will need to check for things that are outside of the scope of this post. If your motorcycle starts and stays running, then it’s time to celebrate and go riding. Don’t get too far away from home though, just in case you missed something.
 
See less See more
#52 ·
Re: Starter problems?

Oceanside said:
So I'm not much of a wrench. How do I test the starter? How do I arc the solenoid?
[All of this is, no doubt, covered in the previous posts in this thread.]

Let's not panic and start taking the starter apart just yet.

Check the kill switch and all the safeties; clutch and side stand. Try it with the side stand UP, clutch pulled IN and tranny in Neutral.

The most common cause of what you describe is the contact on the start BUTTON itself. You can sometimes prove that by pressing and wiggling or by repeated pressing the button firmly; often it will make contact and work for a while.

When you turn the key on, does the headlight light up brightly ??
If so, the first thing to check is the switch behind the button.

If you don't have one already, a multi-meter would be very helpful. They can be had at WalMart or auto parts stores or big-box hardware for about $10.
 
#53 ·
Re: Starter problems?

Easy Rider 2 said:
Oceanside said:
So I'm not much of a wrench. How do I test the starter? How do I arc the solenoid?
[All of this is, no doubt, covered in the previous posts in this thread.]
My apologies, I clearly should have read the posts more thoroughly. I appreciate your help.

Easy Rider 2 said:
Let's not panic and start taking the starter apart just yet.

Check the kill switch and all the safeties; clutch and side stand. Try it with the side stand UP, clutch pulled IN and tranny in Neutral.
Did that last night and this morning, side stand up, Neutral light brightly on, I always through habit pull the clutch in when starting regardless of what gear or neutrality the tranny is in.

Easy Rider 2 said:
The most common cause of what you describe is the contact on the start BUTTON itself. You can sometimes prove that by pressing and wiggling or by repeated pressing the button firmly; often it will make contact and work for a while.

When you turn the key on, does the headlight light up brightly ??
If so, the first thing to check is the switch behind the button.

If you don't have one already, a multi-meter would be very helpful. They can be had at WalMart or auto parts stores or big-box hardware for about $10.
I honestly don't remember if it continued to burn brightly. I think it turned off when I pressed the start button. It did burn brightly when I had the key on (but wasn't pressing start.) My VTX turns off the headlamp when I hit start, so my mind may be "filling in the blanks" of my memory. I'll check this stuff when I get home tonight. I'm trying to sell the Shadow, I don't have room in my budget for two bikes. (Plus the VTX is newer, and bigger, and still a HONDA!)

Again, thanks for the help, I'll check things out tonight and see what I can accomplish. I'll re-post once I have either gotten the bike to start (and determined the fix) or if I have more questions.
 
#54 ·
Not looking too good

Ok, so I was right: The headlight does go off when I push the start button. I do get the noise from the Solenoid as well, but it won't crank. I hooked it up to the battery charger, and then pressed the start button, and still no crank, but louder solenoid.

Taking a look at the solenoid, I did see that there were two leads at the top, separated by a thin piece of plastic (so as to keep them from arcing, it certainly seems.) Going out on a limb, I got an insulated pair of needle nose pliers, and made contact with each lead. The headlamp dimmed, but no engine crank - nothing at all, no solenoid noise, nada.

Am I headed in the wrong direction here? It seems I can't get the starter motor to crank the engine.
 
#55 ·
Re: Not looking too good

Oceanside said:
Am I headed in the wrong direction here? It seems I can't get the starter motor to crank the engine.
No, right direction.
Pointing to a bad starter or locked up engine.
You might want to start your own thread to pursue it further......instead of putting it all on the end of the sticky about the basics of "won't start". :wink:
 
#56 ·
Thanks

Thanks for the advice in here. The bike was listed for sale, I was looking for $3K, someone has offered me $2500 "as is" (he knows that I can't get it started, and understands that it might be serious.) I think I'm going to take it, since a starter motor sells for $550, and wish him well.
 
#57 ·
Starter Problems?

Okay so I have a starting problem question and need some advice. I have a 1985 Honda Shadow 700. When I go to start the bike, cranks but won't start. I can rock the bike for a moment or two while starting it and it will turn over. I can let it sit and warm up and once I shut it off and then go to start it again, I have the same thing? Is it carbs? Fuel Line?

Any thoughts? It seems to then run a little rougher than last year.
 
#59 ·
ANY Help would be appreciated!

OK, so I take the bike out two times in the begining of March, about 90 mile ride both times, NO PROBLEMS, (THIS is after being stored all winter in front of the house) We go on vacation, come back and my wife's uncle is in the hospital dying. Long story short the other day is the first chance I get to take the bike out. Put in key turn it on, NOTHING. Idiot lights are very dim but engine doesnt crank. I go out and buy a battery tender jr plug it in, (according to light (steady red)) it is charging. Say should take about 16 hours. Leave it on for 20, light still red. Disconnect, turn on key, idiot light VERY bright, but still won't crank. IS it likely JUST the battery? Please tell me it is, EVEN if it is a lie! Not very mechanical, but not COMPLETELY non mechanical. Suppose to rain for the next couple days, but I sure would love to get this running.

FYI
1999 Honda Shadow ACE 750

THANK YOU
 
#60 ·
Re: ANY Help would be appreciated!

Evil Scotsman said:
Leave it on for 20, light still red. Disconnect, turn on key, idiot light VERY bright, but still won't crank. IS it likely JUST the battery?
Yes.

What happened to the dash lights when you tried to engage the starter ??? I'm guessing they went out or very dim again. If so, a new battery is the first step.

Don't go really cheap. A good AGM battery is more forgiving of a little neglect than the old wet cell ones.
 
#61 ·
my 83 750 vtc needs a hot battery to crank and run.
i need a new battery. in the mean time if i put it on the charger and get the "voltage" rating up to 14 or better it fires up.
with a cold engine at 12 to 13 "V" the starter spins but not fast enough for the engine to come to life.
 
#62 ·
No Start, no anything

I have a 2003 750 spirit, I went out last sat. to ride, turned the switch on, everything came on like normal, hit the start button everything went off, no lights no anything, checked the fuse under the seat and it's ok so anyone have any other ideas of what to check is the any type of electrical module? I have checked the battery and it's good, new last month also.
 
#64 ·
84 Honda Shadow 700 won't start when I turn it on.

I have an 84 700 Honda Shadow. I just had the ingnition switch rebuilt. Last night I had to drive it home in the rain. Today, when I went to start it, the lights came on, but nothing would happen when I hit the start button. It would not turn over. The light dimmed when I would hit the start button. I checked the kill switch and it was on run. I shut if off a couple of times and tried it, again nothing. I rocked it in gear and then tried to start it, nothing. Any ideas? Do you think I take it back to where I had it fixed and have them fix it for nothing because he said he checked all wires from the battery up?
 
#65 ·
Now mine won't start either. The battery is good and the engine does turn, as evident by the heartbeat sound fom the exhaust, and the starter turns but makes a wierd sound as it does. It sounds like a starter usually does but louder and faster. It turns faster than the engine does. The past few weeks it has been kinda week on starting (battery is the first thing I checked, it's good) and now I get no start at all. I can't get it push started either. Not because of the problem but because it is all level ground and I have to get it over 10 mph and in 3rd to pop start it. When I do get it moving fast enough, it slows very fast when I jump on and try to pump
it up a couple gears. The nearest downhill is 2 blocks away and if it doesn't start I'll never be able to push it back up. I didn't want to look at it today either because it got up to 98° and won't get below 80° any time soon.
 
#66 ·
there was a similar post about this same issue that i posted a reply the same suggestion i'm about to give you. i happen to have an 84 vt700 in my shop now that was doing the same thing. turn switch on, killswitch on 'run', hit starter button... and.... nothing. i did some checking on the connections and there was in fact a connection loose. on the starter silenoid, you have two post and connector that can be traced back to your starter and to your starter button on the opposite end. that connector had worked itself loose. you will still have all power and lights to the bike, but the starter is not getting anything because of the loose connection. check that and see what you find out. hope it helps.
 
#67 ·
Reply: Bike won't start

Jottum said:
Hey folks! Quick question from a 6 year rider, 1 month tinkerer. I have an 01 750 A.C.E that wont start this year. New battery, getting plenty of spark, had some old gas in the tank over the winter. I added new gas and some seafoam, but didn't drain the tank. I traced the line from the tank to the in line filter just below the tank and onward. Is this bike equipped with a fuel pump? Is that what the cylinder tucked low in the frame is that has one line in and another fuel line out? The out line goes all the way back up to the carbureator. I am just wondering if maybe my pump is out. I sprayed Starter fluid into the carb and it fired for about a second then died again. I have done this several times and get the same result.

the air filter is new as well. I haven't done anything with the carbeurator though. I am not that tech savy yet.

I have 2k miles on it. I live in MN and we don't have long riding seasons, plus two littel kids have kept me from the bike as much as I want.

any help would be great! Thanks in advance.


Reply: I am wondering if your problem has been corrected. I am having the same problem. I bought this bike that has been sitting for a prolonged time, (less than a year) and it ran like crap. I.E. spitting and sputtering with back fire. I put sea foam in it and it seemed to run like a champ after a while. I then went out and tried to start it up and it ran like crap again. So, I decided to change the old fuel out. Now, I have cranking but not starting! I haven't tried spraying in the carb but everything eles i checked points to a fuel issue or the lack there-of. Please any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
#68 ·
Ran across one I did not see covered, or I missed it. Either way, here it goes.

I left my switch on the other day and drained my batt low enough not to crank the bike. After leaving it on the tender the batt was charged enough and I set the enrichment circuit to open. Fired up the bike and she was fine. Close the petcock, remove key this time. That was a couple days ago. This morning I went out to fire up the bike it fired ran and sputtered out. pet **** was open, all was well cept the bike would not re-crank. turns out the fuel in the bowls evaporated out. (for all I can figure this is the only thing I can think happened) I had left the enrichment circuit open and I believe this allowed the majority of the fuel in the carb bowls to escape via evap. Most of us know how much of a P.I.A. getting the dry bowls on these shadows refilled is. Needless to say my drive to school in the Buick was an angry curse filled one. A few minutes of crank, sit, crank, sit and she fired right up.
 
#69 ·
I have recently purchased a 2006 Honda Shadow Aero - rode it to try it out (even in Dec. in Ohio) - it seemed to run fine. The day I picked it up the seller told me the battery was dead, so he had to charge it that morning. I let it sit a couple of weeks after bringing it home before we got a battery tender. Now, battery appears to be charging, but when I try to start it, it will turn over until the battery loses it's charge - will not start. HELP! Does this seem to be something other than the battery?
 
#70 ·
I have recently purchased a 2006 Honda Shadow Aero - rode it to try it out (even in Dec. in Ohio) - it seemed to run fine. The day I picked it up the seller told me the battery was dead, so he had to charge it that morning. I let it sit a couple of weeks after bringing it home before we got a battery tender. Now, battery appears to be charging, but when I try to start it, it will turn over until the battery loses it's charge - will not start. HELP! Does this seem to be something other than the battery?
did you read your post? 5 year old bike in ohio. possibly a 5 year old battery in ohio. the seller tells you he needs to charge the battery in order to start the bike the day you pick it up. you put it on a battery tender. does your tender tell you that it is charging the battery? mine does not. it simply 'tends' the battery in the condition it is already in and will bring it to a full charge if the battery will take it. if it's dead, it's dead. you can tender it all you want and it will remain dead. with all that you've mentioned here, why would you want to go tinkering or potentially change something else without getting a new battery or borrow one to attempt starting the bike which would be the most obvious and simple solution. kiss...is the rule of thumb here.

so i'd answer 'no' to your question and you'd be foolish to look for other concerns without exploring the obvious one.
 
#72 ·
OK, one more...

I got this 1987 Shadow VT 1100 C from a friend who tired of riding. Bike was basically sitting in his backyard. I took it home and started cleaning it (exterior) then replaced the spark plugs with the required ones, properly gapped and hooked a brand new battery on it. I went through every procedure pre-starting it and it hesitated a few tries, after which it started chugging. All lights work well but when the engine is running I can see flickering of the lights going in rhythm with the engine, they don't shut off but rather flicker. Is this normal or am I looking at some work here?

And BTW, great Forum, great advices and great friendship here! Thank y'all for any replies.
 
#75 ·
Thank you.
Low voltage battery most likely cause.
Its hard to follow, and not to allow a low voltage (less than 12 volts). This can cause breakage of the relay voltage regulator.
He does not like this.

And I recommend to check the reliability of fixing the wires to the battery terminals.
 
#76 ·
Just checked the voltage at the battery terminals, it gave 13.2V. I applied some contact cleaner to the relay VR and tried to start. Not much of a success. A few puffs and then silence. The choke is open BTW, I cleaned the Start button as well. Starter works too. When trying to start it, the low beam and lights dim quite a bit during the starting.
 
#79 ·
hey folks, i'M having a bad luck this spring starting my shadow spirit 03 for first time this year after a long winter.:-x
for the first time since i got this beauty, it's refusing to start!
every year i do everything by the book and every spring it starts from the second try! not this spring!
for the basic check, all is fine: battery is recharged several times due to the tries, fuel checked, sparg plugs checked
Only thing different i did and i think that's the mistake i did in winter- is remove the spark and put few oil drops in the cylinder - this is what is recommended in the manual! if this is really the issue, how can i do to fix it

so what is happening when i hit the starter, it goes on and on with no signs of willing to start at all, tried with/without choke, full gas, i'm deseparate!
last year i did a full checkup at the mecanic shop and never had an issue before or after the checkup.

any ideas!
thanks!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
You have insufficient privileges to reply here.
Top