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post #21 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
I am reassembling a fork. I have not added oil since it has not been delivered yet. I wanted to put the fork cap back on to keep the internals clean but it is very hard to compress the spring far enough.

Is this normal since there is no oil in the fork or did I do something wrong?
Yes it is hard, those springs are not easy to compress. It often takes 2 people to do this. 1 to compress, the other to turn the screw/cap thing.
I would put a cup over it and tape it shut.
Or just go to auto parts store and buy fluid and return what you ordered. No need in risking screwing up those threads doing it 2x.
Probably need to compress 3" worth of spring I am guessing.



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post #22 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 04:10 PM Thread Starter
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Alright......new fork seals are in!! Followed Two Wheel Rocco's videos. Everything was a piece of cake.

The broken pivot bolt came right out with a left hand drill bit.

I'm getting ready to add the fork oil now. Is there a trick to know exactly how much you put in? or do you do the level measurement with a caliper?


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post #23 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-09-2019, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post
Alright......new fork seals are in!! Followed Two Wheel Rocco's videos. Everything was a piece of cake.



The broken pivot bolt came right out with a left hand drill bit.



I'm getting ready to add the fork oil now. Is there a trick to know exactly how much you put in? or do you do the level measurement with a caliper?
I used a measuring cup. Poured up proper amount for each side. Add slowly, move the shock some to get air out and then finish adding.

****Not one from the kitchen, I bought one just for oil with ounce markings****


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post #24 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-10-2019, 05:56 PM
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Mark the thread engagement of caps with marker. This makes install soooo much better for one person to install.




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post #25 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 08:31 PM
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Use a screwdrive as a dipstick...
A bulb type turkey baster from the local grocery store(~$2) is also a nice to have for adding/removing small amounts of oil...
especially when ya put a bit to much oil in the crankcase after an oil change!

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post #26 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-11-2019, 09:06 PM
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I always have a rough time compressing those springs in there. My best technique is to use a carpenter bar clamp that is longer than the fork. I put a small 1/2 inch piece of pvc pipe under the screw to keep it from pivoting. It is easy enough to compress this way but I still use 2 people. One to hold everything aligned while I try screwing the cap down and pray it doesn't slip losing parts.
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post #27 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-14-2019, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselDoctor View Post

Also the hex plug at the bottom of the fork seems to just spin with the internals. Is it safe to use an impact to try to break it loose?
Rehash but the reason the hex bolt spins is that you're not able to hold the fork piston from spinning while unscrewing the hex bolt (second pic). So, it's like trying to open the cap on a jar without holding the jar from moving. Both components spin together. (The hex bolt screws into the fork piston.)

There are methods of course and special and diy tools which have been well covered previously. I like to use the diy tool because I don't like chafing the aluminum surface that the fork piston rest upon inside the lower fork. More a personal preference though since I don't have evidence that any chafing actually occurs.

Anyways, the cylinder for the fork piston is the inside area of the fork tube. A piston requires a cylinder. The reciprocating fork piston dampens the pogo effect of the fork's coil spring so on. The bottom end of the fork tube is formed with a reduced diameter than the rest of the fork tube (bottom pic). The reduced diameter is less than the diameter of the piston head so the fork piston cannot travel any lower than the bottom end of the fork tube. That is, the fork piston is captured by the fork tube.

This design prevents the front end from falling off the bike when your front end goes airborne or you jack up the front end of the bike, but for this design to work, it wouldn't be possible without the pesky fork bolt. And had it not been for the trouble it takes to remove the hex bolt, it's value would probably go unheralded.






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post #28 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 06:14 AM
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Ron,

That's the best and simplest explanation of how forks work I've seen. Period.
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post #29 of 29 (permalink) Old 04-15-2019, 09:41 AM
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thanx chuck.

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