Opinions on a new clutch? - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Opinions on a new clutch?

I own a VT1100C 20 years old with 50K on the clutch. I've looked over the entire bike, did all the manitience etc. The clutch is the only thing I haven't touched.



I think the clutch is about worn out. Doesn't slip badly but I figure I should have a plan to replace the clutch. If a good sale comes up somewhere or something like that happens.



I would like to go with a stiffer spring. Barnett keeps coming up at 10-15% stiffer. They also sell a whole kit. KG is claiming more like 20-25% stiffer springs. EBC is cliaming 10% stiffer springs.



Anyone have some working knowledge of any of these springs? My clutch right now is very easy to pull so some extra pull that will get me a faster lock up on the clutch is worth it to me.



Do you really need to replace the metal disc's if you change out the friction disc's? What could go wrong with them?



I'm not sure if I should just buy new springs and see what that feels like or go all out on a complete kit? Barnet seems to be the only one I can find that sells a whole, are there other complete kits available?


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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 12:09 PM
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Test your clutch first. Get up to about 40 MPH in high gear pull the lever and rev the engine up to maybe or 4000 RPM and drop the lever. If it grabs well and lugs the engine that's good enough. If it flares and slowly grabs it is weak.

If it still grips pretty well, many guys have just added washers to increase the spring pressure and it has worked very well.

Easy thing to try.


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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 12:16 PM
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If you replace you clutch plates before you start slipping, you can re-use the metal plates.
If you wait till it starts slipping, then the metal plates can heat up and warp, causing issues with the new friction plates.

As mentioned, a quick "fix" you can try for almost free is adding washers to current springs. This causes them to be a little tighter and grip "better". But if your slipping, you will still need to replace the friction plates.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 07:56 PM
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This adding washer thing kinda bugs me.
I can see what it is doing adding preload to increase base pressure on the clutch pack and inversely slightly limiting the clutch travel.

IMO you are further loading marginal springs, but I can see it working kinda especially if you are away from civilization in MacGyverland.

What I don't understand is that its worth the savings. 25 cents of washers vs. 10 to 15 bucks for springs.
The labor is the same the gasket hassle is the same, that's not a whole lot of pizza and beer to do without.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swifty2014 View Post
Test your clutch first. Get up to about 40 MPH in high gear pull the lever and rev the engine up to maybe or 4000 RPM and drop the lever. If it grabs well and lugs the engine that's good enough. If it flares and slowly grabs it is weak.

.

You mean 5th gear? I'm not sure the bike wouldn't stall out at 40 MPH in 5th. I'm going to try this out just for fun, I don't really use 5 gear. 4th gear is were I think something isn't right. 5th gear is clearly a higway low rev cruise gear. If I go into 5th it drops the revs and doesn't pull much at all. I can speed up a little at a time but I haven't tried to go faster than 75. 4th gear doesn't have much pull either and I can hear a spinning whirling noise coming from the clutch case. I can't hear that in any other gear. The whirling noise happens as I throttle up in 4th gear. I find it funny that only 4th is having a problem.






Looks like I have a test run to do out on the interstate. The bike hasn't made it to an interstate yet. My top speed roads are 4 lane state highways with driveways and traffic lights. I don't get to cruise for long at higher speeds.

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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-23-2019, 10:28 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSRoad View Post
This adding washer thing kinda bugs me.
I can see what it is doing adding preload to increase base pressure on the clutch pack and inversely slightly limiting the clutch travel.

IMO you are further loading marginal springs, but I can see it working kinda especially if you are away from civilization in MacGyverland.

What I don't understand is that its worth the savings. 25 cents of washers vs. 10 to 15 bucks for springs.
The labor is the same the gasket hassle is the same, that's not a whole lot of pizza and beer to do without.

I'm with you on that. I have used washers to firm up a clutch on a small vehicle and it does work but if I'm going to take the time to take this all apart I'll probably get new springs at least. Is that really better than washers in this case? Not sure.

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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 07:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoreyP View Post
You mean 5th gear? I'm not sure the bike wouldn't stall out at 40 MPH in 5th. I'm going to try this out just for fun, I don't really use 5 gear. 4th gear is were I think something isn't right. 5th gear is clearly a higway low rev cruise gear. If I go into 5th it drops the revs and doesn't pull much at all. I can speed up a little at a time but I haven't tried to go faster than 75. 4th gear doesn't have much pull either and I can hear a spinning whirling noise coming from the clutch case. I can't hear that in any other gear. The whirling noise happens as I throttle up in 4th gear. I find it funny that only 4th is having a problem.






Looks like I have a test run to do out on the interstate. The bike hasn't made it to an interstate yet. My top speed roads are 4 lane state highways with driveways and traffic lights. I don't get to cruise for long at higher speeds.



Swifty said 40 mph, not e-way speeds. He also said high gear. High gear is the the last gear you have, whether you have 4 or 5 gears. He also said 'drop the lever' which means just that; no feathering it. Read what he said to do, read what he said to expect, then go do it.

Last edited by Chuck_Michigan; 04-24-2019 at 07:07 AM.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 08:48 AM
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If you live in an area with a decent steep hill, ride up at a moderate speed in one of the top two gears and roll the throttle on to full.
If the revs come up faster than the speed, it's new clutch time.

FWIW on a different bike, I have a full Barnett kit in my 750ACE, Kevlar frictions, steels and springs.
The lever pull is noticeably stiffer, but still not very heavy, the clutch modulates better than stock, the friction zone is wider and feels generally more solid when engaged.
I've been running the clutch for over four riding seasons and have abused it a bit on launches from time to time and have not had to even look at the adjustment.
I don't know how the other aftermarket springs and plates are, but I'm happy with the choice of the Barnett kit for my bike.

Last edited by CSRoad; 04-24-2019 at 09:24 AM. Reason: More info:
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 12:35 PM
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@CoreyP, the idea of a higher gear is to really get the clutch to work hard under load and lug the engine if it can. If it can't, then it is getting weak. Any speed in a higher gear with a bunch of RPM would do it. You want to get into the torque range.
Just a trick I used many times on cars to see what the health of the clutch was.

If it feels like a Shush-O-Matic drive it needs help.





Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
1983 750 Shadow
From the past=
1951 Cushman scooter
1962 Honda 305 Dream
1965 Honda 305 Dream
1971 Honda 175 scrambler
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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 04-24-2019, 01:54 PM
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My clutch has 19K on it, started slipping a bit after installing new carb. The posts in here suggested using JASO-MA type engine oil and lubing the cable and I did so. Slippage gone now. I never knew there was special oil to be used with wet clutches. No more slippage, it was that easy. Live and learn...
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Last edited by Tellmymother; 04-24-2019 at 01:55 PM. Reason: typo
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