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Non-starting issue

2K views 27 replies 9 participants last post by  Space Force 1 
#1 ·
This may be a twist on the non-starting issue, but I recently installed a new set of throttle cables and now suddenly the bike no longer starts. Out of 30 or so attempts it started 4 times. Each time that it does not start it sounds (for a second) as if it wants to start but doesn't. i have no idea where to begin, any and all assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
#4 ·
Would you explain how the throttles failing to close would prevent the bike from starting? At what point do you suspect the throttles aren't closing: up top in the throttle grip, or down below attached to the carb.?


It’s just a WAG on my part. I have owned more than one motorcycle that would not cold start if the throttle was not fully closed. If the cables are too tight or misrouted that could cause problems. You installed new cables and now it won’t start. Hope you get it sorted out.


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#5 ·
non-starting issues

How did you determine that your non-starting issue was related to your throttle not fully closing? What should I look for , or what type of test should I run, to determine whether or not that is the problem? (Like if it were the battery, or sparks etc. I could test them. I didn't realize anything other than compression, fuel, electric & air impacted starting, but I have a lot to learn I guess. Thank you!
 
#6 ·
You should have some slop in the throttle when you twist it back and forth. There are two different adjustments on the push pull cables, one up towards the grip and one down next to the carbs. I've always found the one by the carbs easier to adjust but you may have to lift up your tank a little.

It's also possible you messed up the kill switch wiring when changing out the cables.
 
#7 ·
You should have some slop in the throttle when you twist it back and forth. There are two different adjustments on the push pull cables, one up towards the grip and one down next to the carbs. I've always found the one by the carbs easier to adjust but you may have to lift up your tank a little.

It's also possible you messed up the kill switch wiring when changing out the cables.
As you can see I have a lot to learn: what is slop? I think you may be on to something in regards to the kill switch. I & going to check it for continuity. I think you put me on to something. Thanks!
 
#9 ·
Slop could also be called slack, or free play.
The kill switch idea was on my mind also.
Get a meter or test light and put it on the black/white wire on a coil and see if you always have power with the key on.
 
#10 ·
non-starting issues

Thank you very much! Things are a lot clearer now. I didn't recognize the word "slop" and have never heard it before ( I have this glossary (web.archive.org/web/20071211174129/http://motorcycle-glossary.com/motorcycle-definitions/t/) that is supposed to have all of the words but it didn't have it. I do know what is meant by free play.
 
#11 ·
Make sure you have the proper free play in your clutch cable because if it has too much slop it won't release correctly.



Slop is sort of a lazy mechanical way of saying something is out of tolerance. Like "this worn piston has too much slop".
 
#12 ·
non-starting issues

Illness and bad weather prevented me from making any progress yesterday; but today I went out and readjusted the cables and it started --- however, it was short lived because after a minute or two it killed. Further attempts at restarting were unsuccessful. One further question for you! ***What does the fact that it will start every 15 or so attempts mean? Can that possibly be related to the adjustment of the throttle cables?*** I always thought that maladjusted throttle cables could put you at risk for injury or death, but I never imagined it would prevent the bike from consistently starting.
 
#14 ·
The clutch and throttle cables should not keep it from starting, if it is neutral and the throttle is closed it should start.
 
#19 ·

I made a mistake in thinking that my issue was related to a short or corrosion in the stop switch/starter switch. I never suspected it had anything to do with the throttle cables. In any event, I didn't notice before but now I see that when I click the starter button fluids (coolant?) drip out if the bike doesn't start. On the few occasions that it does start there is a sort of whiny sound & the fluids pour out. Does that sound like it has anything to do with the carburetor? If it were the carb would that prevent it from starting at all? The attachments are to show you where the leakage is.
 

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#15 ·
non-starting issues

I am pretty certain there is a short in the switch assembly. The starter switch only responds when a certain spot in the corner is pushed, otherwise nothing. When I get home this evening I will go inside it and see what debris or corrosion might be shorting it out. Thanks a lot for your assistance!
 
#16 ·
Adjust tour idle. Open it up more and then see if it runs then turn it down to the spec RPM it should be. Probably 900RPM. Also check the choke. If pulled out its closing the the air intake starving it. Push it back in. That or you reversed the open and close cables on the throttle.
 
#18 ·
Over the last several days we have been having flood like conditions with constant downpours so I haven't been able to get outside with the bike; however I have disassembled the right hand handlebar switch with the idea of cleaning out any corrosion that may have built up from outside storage. I thought that maybe the problem is with the starter switch. I think the weather may clear enough tomorrow that I can reassemble it and see if it works.
I had no idea that throttle cables played any part in the bike starting or not. I have changed throttle cables 3 times (this is the 4th) with no resulting issues with starting. When I reassemble the switch assembly I will pay fuller attention to the adjustments of the cables.
Thank you for your insight & advice.
 
#20 ·
If you see drips from that black rubber boot area it is the oil pressure switch. It could have a leak and a loss of oil but would not keep it from cranking or starting. But check your oil level to be sure it is not low, now that you have seen leaking.


The throttle cable itself won't cause a no start. Just don't open the throttle while cranking, that usually works best.


If it will crank all the time, but not fire up then it is fuel or electrical related.
 
#21 ·
If you see drips from that black rubber boot area it is the oil pressure switch. It could have a leak and a loss of oil but would not keep it from cranking or starting. But check your oil level to be sure it is not low, now that you have seen leaking.


The throttle cable itself won't cause a no start. Just don't open the throttle while cranking, that usually works best.


If it will crank all the time, but not fire up then it is fuel or electrical related.
The leakage is not from the oil pressure switch, but it is leaking onto it from above. From the coloration it could be coolant, but it also has a gassy smell. When I was replacing the throttle cables I noticed what appeared to be a small leakage (a few drops) from the water tubes that connects to the carburetor.


The oil is fine - I haven't lost any, but I do seem to be losing gas. Each evening I put a little in (hoping to get it started) but seem to have less the following day when I remove the tank. Yes it will crank each & every time, and for a brief moment it seem that it wants to fire up, & occasionally it did but it is usually short-lived. Today I checked the fuel line. I admit I am much better at fixing something than I am at diagnosing problems. My problem is that I don't know what the problem is LOL.
 
#22 · (Edited)
Water tubes to the carb??

Sounds like those are vacuum tubes...shouldn't have any water in 'em tho...gas might be present, if there is a...whatchamacallit...do a petcock rebuild because your regulator diaphram is probably cracked. Well, honestly probably all the rubber inside there is shot. Heat & age can kill the inner workings of a petcock as quickly as ten years, also somewhat dependant on where you park it/store it. Shade/bike cover is good, direct sunlight is bad.

That should solve your gas leak issue.

Oh, also check your fuel tank lid, sometimes that gasket wears out and the gas will evaporate right out the top, especially in warmer weather.
 
#24 ·
Water tubes to the carb??

Sounds like those are vacuum tubes...shouldn't have any water in 'em tho...gas might be present, if there is a...whatchamacallit...do a petcock rebuild because your regulator diaphram is probably cracked. Well, honestly probably all the rubber inside there is shot. Heat & age can kill the inner workings of a petcock as quickly as ten years, also somewhat dependant on where you park it/store it. Shade/bike cover is good, direct sunlight is bad.

That should solve your gas leak issue.

Oh, also check your fuel tank lid, sometimes that gasket wears out and the gas will evaporate right out the top, especially in warmer weather.
Yes! Water hoses are connected to the carb and so are vacuum tubes - in any event, your suggestions were well received. Thank you!
 

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#23 ·
The throttle plate needs to be closed for the slow jet to siphon fuel into the air stream. If the throttle plate is open too far the slow jet doesn't draw enough fuel and the mix will be too lean to idle.
 
#25 ·
So the water hoses could be for carb heat to keep them at a proper temp to run efficiently and clean emissions. Cars have manifold heating also with carbs . Some bike carbs have electrical connectors with heating elements in the bowls.


But to find the source of the leak wrap paper towels around the hoses you suspect and run it and look for wet spots.
Maybe all that is needed is to snug up the hose clamps.
 
#26 ·
So the water hoses could be for carb heat to keep them at a proper temp to run efficiently and clean emissions. Cars have manifold heating also with carbs . Some bike carbs have electrical connectors with heating elements in the bowls.


But to find the source of the leak wrap paper towels around the hoses you suspect and run it and look for wet spots.
Maybe all that is needed is to snug up the hose clamps.
Happy to report that I am back on the road again :-D apparently, "all that was needed was to snug up the hose clamps." Thanks again!!!
 
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