Charging Issue (very perplexing) - Honda Shadow Forums : Shadow Motorcycle Forum
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post #1 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 09:49 AM Thread Starter
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Charging Issue (very perplexing)

Hi- Since I got my 1999 VT750CD2, it's been bulletproof, and I think I may have jinxed myself when singing its praises to friends with more temperamental bikes. I am in Maine and store it in an unheated garage during our long winters. A few weeks ago, I brought it out and started it up, let it get warm, then put it back for another week (until it was riding weather). It started up, a little sluggish, but it was sitting all winter and I did not charge the battery (I know, I know- I got cocky). I get it out on the road and was riding for about 30 minutes when I pulled over to check out the view. When I went to restart, I got nothing but clicks. I manage to bump start it and get it home. I threw it on a charger, put it back on the bike, then started it a few times when I trailered it back to my apartment (I store it at my family's place). I take it out the next day, am riding for about 30 minutes, and it starts dependably a few times, but then nothing but clicks (had to bump start it again).
I charged the battery again and immediately put the voltmeter on various things:
12.71 after charging, but out of the bike
12.48 when idling
14.58 when throttle is goosed

Then, I waited 24 hours and took the measurements again (as of 10 minutes ago):
12.57 when off
12.22 when idling
14ish when goosed

Also, the connection at the rectifier is a little cooked (I attached pics) but it seems like it's still making contact.

So, do you think this is a battery thing, or a regulator/rectifier thing? I am between jobs at the moment, so would like to be as efficient as possible when throwing parts at my bike.
Any input would be greatly appreciated- thanks so much!!

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post #2 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 10:19 AM
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You can test the regulator and stator in just a few minutes with a multimeter. Regulators get checked using the diode function, negative lead on meter goes to positive wire and check each pin in the yellow wires. Then reverse the leads. You should get continuity one way and not the other. If you get any other result its bad regulator/ rectifier. Stator gets checked red lead to each wire and negative lead to frame. No continuity should be on this test, if you get a reading other thal out of limits its bad. Then check each wire on the stator with the other two, you should have continuity on this test, if not its bad. Be sure to unplug both parts from the rest of the system before you test them. The whole thing is only like 30 minutes if you take your time.

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Last edited by bigolepit; 05-25-2019 at 10:22 AM.
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post #3 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 10:26 AM
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By the way if your stator shows a reading other than out of limit when checking a ground to frame then do check the wires for bare spots or bad connections before you buy a new stator. Could show a reading from either reason if the stator itself is good. In that case all you have to do is replace the bad wire or harness.

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post #4 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 11:05 AM
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I would polish the terminals that slide into those in the picture and squeeze those a little with a small screwdriver so they fit tight.
Make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight.
Then Check your charging readings again.

It looks like by the voltage it is charging well.
It may be weak cell in the battery that shows voltage fine but has no reserve crank amps.
The 3 yellow stater wire connector has been a real problem for many guys till they cut it off and repair that.
You could do a simple battery load test if your bike is like mine. The kill switch stops ignition power but it will still crank.
So charge it up and see if you can crank reliably for 20+ seconds , or it slows down to nothing.

Only a biker knows why a dog sticks his head out of a car window.
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post #5 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:27 PM
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My money is on a bad cell in the battery, especially if it is one of the "T" shaped batteries. I replaced mine with a standard rectangular battery where all the cells are the same size and eliminated a "half hour run time" issue I was having.

If it jams, force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway.
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post #6 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowGeezer View Post
My money is on a bad cell in the battery, especially if it is one of the "T" shaped batteries. I replaced mine with a standard rectangular battery where all the cells are the same size and eliminated a "half hour run time" issue I was having.
I did the same thing. That battery never did as good as good as the t shaped battery. I went back to the oem style t shaped.
Just my experience. Not disputing anything
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post #7 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigolepit View Post
I did the same thing. That battery never did as good as good as the t shaped battery. I went back to the oem style t shaped.
Just my experience. Not disputing anything
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Understood and appreciated. A bad cell is a bad cell and probably related to a lot of variables. In FL with the heat, two years is about all to expect, regardless of battery shape.

If it jams, force it. If it breaks it needed replacing anyway.
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post #8 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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The battery is from 2015, a Yuasa. Seems to be the regular sealed type.
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post #9 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-25-2019, 03:19 PM
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Battery is a little old. Id for sure atleast have it tested if not just replace.

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post #10 of 14 (permalink) Old 05-26-2019, 09:16 AM
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Not at all perplexing.


Pull the battery.
Take it to an auto parts store that will do load-testing for free. (Many, maybe even most, parts store do.)
Get the battery load-tested there.
Shop for a new battery.

From Yuasa (link):
"Sealed AGM batteries typically last 3 to 5 years on average. 6 to 8 years is easily obtainable with proper maintenance. Typically sealed AGM batteries will give warning before completely dying. They will start slower, and require more charging. This is your clue to replace the battery. Typically they do not fail all of a sudden."




Art's 1999 Shadow 1100 ACE (Ride bell by Dr. Bob's Patient)





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